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EASTEM PILGRIMS: 



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TRAVELS OF THREE LADIES. 



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EASTERN PILGRIMS: 

THE 

TKAVELS OF THREE LADIES. 



AGNES SMITH. U 

LONDON: 
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, 

13, GHEAT UAKLBOBOUGH STREET. 
1870. 



A '£V/-. V ° 



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CONTENTS. 



CHAP. 

I. LONDON TO MUNICH 



H. MUNICH TO CONSTANTINOPLE 



HI. CONSTANTINOPLE 



IV. CONSTANTINOPLE TO CYPRUS 
V. CYPRUS TO ALEXANDRIA 
VI. ALEXANDRIA TO* ASOUAN 



VH. ASOUAN TO WADEE HALFEH AND BACK TO CAIRO 145 



Vm. JAFFA TO HEBRON AND JERUSALEM 
IX. A SUNDAY IN JERUSALEM 
X. RAMBLES ABOUT JERUSALEM 



XI. A RIDE TO BETHANY 



XH. A VISIT TO THE CAVE OF ADULLAM 
XIH. THE MOHAMMEDAN PILGRIMS 
XIV. PALM SUNDAY, AND MIZPEH 
XV. THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA 



XVI. THE HOLY FIRE 



XVH. THE HARAM AND THE HAREEM 
XVHI. JERUSALEM TO DAMASCUS . 



XIX. DAMASCUS TO THE CEDARS AND TO GREECE . 



PAGE 
1 

18 
39 
52 
69 
94 



198 
226 
230 
240 
244 
251 
255 
258 
272 
279 
290 
311 



EASTERN PILGRIMS- 



chapter i. 



LONDON TO MUNICH. 



THE Holy Land seems to be considered quite the 
tour for a gentleman. " And a strong lady 
may accompany her husband," says Dr. Macleod. 
So when two friends and myself resolved, in the 
summer of 1868, to absent ourselves for a year 
from home, for the purpose of visiting scenes en- 
deared to us by so many hallowed associations, 
great was the consternation expressed by our friends 
at the idea of three ladies venturing on so length- 
ened a pilgrimage alone. " Do you think they will 
ever come back ? They are going amongst Moham- 
medans and barbarians," said some, who knew of 
our intention. But for what reason ? The means 
of communication are now so much improved, the 
art of providing for a traveller's comfort is carried 
to such perfection, that any woman of ordinary 

B 






I EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

prudence (without belonging to the class called 
strong-minded) can find little difficulty in arranging 
matters for her own convenience. And if our edu- 
cation does not enable us to protect ourselves from 
the influence of such dangerous opinions as, it is 
said, we shall hear in the varied society with which 
it may be our lot to mingle, what is that education 
worth ? 

But before going further, let me introduce the 
reader to our party. Three is a very manageable 
number. We are all sisters in affection, though 
only two are so by birth. We are provided with 
the best of all auxiliaries — viz : a knowledge of the 
French, German, and Italian languages. A courier 
we do not want, as without his services we are in a 
much more advantageous position for gathering 
information. We agree to a division of labour. 
Violet makes herself responsible for the manage- 
ment at hotels, and for the direction of the party 
in general ; Edith examines the accounts ; Agnes 
studies the guide-book, and sketches routes for 
the approval of her companions. Violet is gifted 
with prudence and liveliness ; Edith is quick at 
arithmetic ; whilst Agnes is very happy to benefit 
by the practical activity of her friends. But some 
preparations must be made beforehand. The most 
useful kind of trunk is that made by Edward Cave, 



PREPARATIONS FOR OUR JOURNEY. 6 

Wigniore Street. It is a basket, covered with 
strong tarpaulin, needs no extra cover, and is at 
once light and impervious to rain. For short jour- 
neys, a small leather portmanteau called " The Glad- 
stone," is most suitable, as it holds more than would 
appear at first sight, and will strap easily on the 
back of a mule. Each traveller buys a pair of 
mackintosh sheets ; they cost a guinea, and will be 
invaluable in the tents. A portable bath is only 
unnecessary lumber, the cost of carrying it being 
more than the price of a substitute in any good 
hotel. Side saddles are to be sent for us straight 
to the Peninsular and Oriental Company's agent at 
Alexandria : riding costumes of white serge are 
purchased at Nicoll's, and with Murray's excellent 
guide-book to Syria in our hanjis, we feel that we 
are tolerably well provided for. 

On a dull morning of August, 1868, we bade 
farewell to London. It is sad to drive along these 
streets, and wonder if we shall ever behold them 
again. Before our year has passed, what changes 
will take place in the State, in the Church, and in 
the circle of our friends ! The Irish Church Estab- 
lishment will be a thing of the past, that is certain. 
Mr. Gladstone will probably guide the nation's 
counsels. Society will whirl on its way without 
missing us much, and we shall all be a year nearer 

b2 



4 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

eternity. But what of that ? In seeking to know 
more of our Fathers universe, may we not rise to 
broader conceptions of Himself? and may we not 
arrive at a truer estimate of our own little sphere 
of action, if we learn to realize how many struggles 
and aspirations go forth towards objects of which 
we have hardly even learnt the names ? 

After a somewhat stormy passage, we reached 
Ostend. Owing to Custom-house attentions, we 
lost the train, and waited two hours at a most un- 
interesting station. We reached Bruges at half- 
past six. At night our slumbers were disturbed by 
the heavy roll of ponderous Flemish waggons on 
the ill-paved street, which sounded a rugged bass to 
the sweet treble of the belfry chimes. After visit- 
ing the Cathedral, /md feasting our eyes on one of 
Michael Angelo's inimitable statues, and on Van 
Dyck's painting of St. Rosalia, we took the train 
for Ghent, drove through the celebrated March£ au 
Vendredi, the old meeting-place of Ghent's noisy 
burghers, to the Hotel de Vienne. 

In the church of St. Bavon is a beautiful painting 
by Rubens' master, Otto Venius, which is already 
familiar to us as an engraving. We were not so \ 
greatly pleased with the " Adoration of the Lamb." 
The execution of this celebrated work is certainly 
inimitable, but to represent the Deity in the dress 






GHENT AND LUXEMBOURG. 5 

of a pope, with a crown in which gems glitter lying 
at His feet, is surely the fruit of a very perverted 
imagination. The scenery is wonderful as an 
achievement of human genius, but how paltry does 
it all seem when we think of the ineffable glory of 
Him who made heaven and earth and sea and all 
that is therein ! 

Our cicerone informed us that the chronic com* 
plaint of Ghent exists, as it did in days of yore, in 
the want of work from the high price of cotton. 
The town is intersected by canals, and presents a 
curious mixture of ancient houses, with their gable 
ends turned towards the street, and modern houses 
shining with white paint and green blinds. In the 
evening we attended service at the B^guinage. It 
is a large enclosed space, surrounded by the little 
houses of the b^guines ; the Convent, or Mother- 
House, occupying one end. The sisters can leave 
to be married, and return in widowhood. Their 
singing was so sweet and solemn, that we felt al- 
most ashamed not to join in their devotions. After 
the distribution of a wafer, each sister went off into 
a quiet ecstasy, and repeated prayers on a rosary 
with exemplary speed. 

Next day we went to Luxembourg. The rail- 
way runs for some distance through the forest of 
Ardennes, which afforded us lovely peeps of wood- 



b EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

land scenery, rich foliage, luxuriant meadow-grass, 
glassy streams, and gurgling rills, with now a#d 
then a bold cliff surmounted by a bright shrub, 
reminding us somewhat of Dunkeld and Killie- 
crankie. 

We were greatly surprised and delighted with 
the romantic beauty of Luxembourg. The upper 
town is built on a steep hill, surrounded by tree- 
planted ramparts. Below is the lower town, nest- 
ling in two wooded valleys, through which flows 
the little river Else. Far as the eye can reach is a 
series of serried crags, peering out of the wood like 
giant columns, and scarcely to be distinguished from 
those solid piles of masonry which bid defiance to 
the invader. Every inequality of ground has been 
taken advantage of for the purposes of defence ; 
and the whole — wood, rock, and water — blend toge- 
ther in a loveliness which must be seen to be con- 
ceived. The entrance to the upper town is through 
two lines of strong fortifications, the inner line be- 
ing thfe higher and more formidable of the two. 
An undulating valley between them is sown with 
potatoes. Like the velvety fur on the paw of a 
cat, it seems all very fair, but how soon might the 
Demon of War strew the scene with desolation ! 
However, it does look well in time of peace to see 
a warrior s hand gloved. 



TREVES. 7 

On Sunday we attended service in the Lutheran 
Church, and thought that it must be a sleepy con- 
gregation which has only one service a day. On 
Monday we went to Treves, saw its Roman remains, 
and heard interesting descriptions of the Holy Coat, 
made of the bark of trees and camel's hair, and sup- 
posed to have been worn by our Saviour before His 
crucifixion. The old man who showed us over the 
Cathedral was very talkative. He had lost four 
brothers at Waterloo, and descanted much on what 
he had heard of the excellencies of Scotch mutton 
and caper sauce. We threatened him with another 
French invasion, and he teased us about the High- 
landers' dress, saying there was such a thing as pro- 
gress. 

At Treves we saw the folly of trusting implicitly 
to a guide-book. The water of the river was too 
low for the usual steamboat, and we had no fancy 
for making a roundabout railway journey. So we 
engaged a carriage, and had a two days' drive along 
the banks of the Moselle, which winds its bright 
way amongst vine-covered hills. We spent a night 
at Alf, where a village-fair had just been held, and 
where our slumbers were disturbed by loud singing, 
quarrelling, and a post-horn blowing. Violet mis- 
took the landlord for a waiter, and offered him a 
franc, which he grandificly bestowed on his slat- 



8 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

ternly housemaid. At Kocheren we were more 
fortunate. Some musicians were visiting the little 
rustic hostelry, and we spent quite a German even- 
ing in listening to their pleasant strains, the juge de 
paix of the district accompanying them on the vio- 
lin. We only wish such simple manners were more 
cultivated in our own country. 

Next day the steamboat and railway brought 
us to Ems. Omnibuses from the different hotels, 
and several carriages, were in waiting at the sta- 
tion. 

" Let us take a carriage," said Violet, " for as we 
have several weeks to spend here, it will enable us 
better to see which is the best hotel, and where we 
are likely to get good rooms." 

"Oh! yes," answered Agnes, "if we enter an 
omnibus, we must go where it takes us, and it will 
be much more comfortable if we have not to change 
our apartments." 

We drove to the Hotel des Quatre Saisons, and 
found it full; then to the H6tel d'Angleterre, where 
we soon established ourselves; not in the hotel 
itself, but in its principal dependency, the Quatre 
Tours, or old Kurhaus. And we had indeed cause 
to congratulate ourselves, for we had found the 
airiest situation and most commanding view in a 
somewhat confined watering-place. 



EMS. V 

Ems is situated on the banks of the Lahn, in a 
very narrow valley. The only level space for 
walking is planted with trees, under which the 
fashionable world promenades in the morning and 
evening. During the day the great heat confines 
most people indoors. An excellent band plays in 
front of the Trinkhalle during the hours for drink- 
ing; and here many German ladies bring their 
knitting. In the Eursaal the gaming-tables drive a 
brisk trade ; whilst once a week those who are not 
very anxious about their " cure " indulge in a dance. 
But the greatest charm of Ems is a donkey ride. 
Our donkeys were named Fix, Fritz, and Bertha. 
Fix's previous rider was a Russian count, who 
played away a great deal of money, and had to 
send for more to take him home. Which was the 
greater donkey ? It was very amusing to hear the 
donkey-drivers talk. They had no respect for 
their king. " Only fancy," said one of them, " he 
has been here two seasons, and has never mounted 
a donkey once 1" 

" But your king is a very brave soldier," said 
Violet; "how could you expect him to ride a 
donkey ? It would not be dignified." 

"Oh! but the Empress of Russia — she is the 
good woman — she and thirty of her suite rode on 
donkeys twice a day, to drink coffee in a rustic 



10 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

arbour on the Marlberg. You say you have not 
got such good donkeys in England, suppose you 
take these three home with you on the rail- 
way." 

" Well, we may think of it," said Agnes ; " but 
I fear our friends will say we are six." 

Our evening walks were very pleasant. We 
seldom entered the Kursaal, but walked about by 
moonlight under the trees. One night, whilst 
strolling home, Edith remarked that our path was 
something like the journey of life, a clear light 
thrown on it from above, every now and then 
crossed by a shadow ; and at the end is darkness, 
represented by a thick grove of trees. But we 
knew that, having passed through the darkness, we 
should find a resting-place. 

u Teach me to live that I may dread 
The grave as little as my bed." 

May we enter the shadow-land with as little fear as 
we did the grove ! 

There were many Russian visitors in Ems. The 
Empress of Russia once stayed at the H6tel 
d'Angleterre ; and after she left, crowds of ladies 
came to kiss the chair on which she had sat. 
The Viceroy of Egypt seems to be a great favourite 



SIMPLE EXPEDIENT. 11 

out of his own m dominions, on account of his 
liberality. The Queen of Holland paid a ten days' 
visit to Ems whilst we were there; and several 
feeble attempts at illumination were made in her 
honour. 

The hills became clothed in their autumn tints 
before we left. Brown, green, and gold were 
more brightly blended than we had ever yet seen 
them. But all this wondrous beauty, though it 
gives such exquisite delight, is the beauty of decay, 
like the hectic cheek and brilliant eye of consump- 
tion. How lovely the Marlberg looked in its 
russet dress 1 It was like some characters, that 
never show the half that is in them till a cold wind 
blows. 

When we had resolved to leave Eras, Violet 
obtained from the landlord a list of the hotels he 
could recommend in the towns we were about to 
visit, intending to modify it according to the advice 
of those we might afterwards meet. She also re- 
quested the concierge either to write or telegraph 
to the hotel at Frankfort for rooms, as nothing is 
so wearing out as standing waiting in a confusion of 
fresh arrivals, or being detained an hour after the 
fatigue of a long journey, until one's apartments 
can be arranged. This simple expedient saved us 



12 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

much annoyance. A landlord never gives his best 
rooms to those who come without previous notice. 
He rightly judges that to them comfort and tidi- 
ness are not essential matters. How can any one 
expect hard-working servants to make the same 
preparation in ten minutes, and at a late hour, as 
they would have made had they known earlier in 
the day ? The expense of the two plans is almost 
the same. 

Edith experienced no difficulty on German rail- 
ways. After delivering our luggage to the officials, 
she did not require to think more about it, till, 
having arrived at our destination, and entered the 
omnibus of the hotel we had chosen, she delivered 
the receipt to the commissionaire, and saw our 
boxes transported to the roof. And the gift of a 
franc always supplied us with a man to carry our 
rugs and bags. How much better than being in 
bondage to a courier ! 

Agnes had a good idea that Peter the Hermit's 
task was not a very difficult one. Had we accepted 
all the offers we received of company to Jerusalem, 
what a caravan we should have had 1 The principal 
attraction for Catholics seems to be our Saviour's 
grave ; but as we were not taught in our youth to 
worship any particular spot of earth, we can hardly 
understand what benefit they expect to derive from 



NUREMBERG. 13 

visiting it. Our Saviour is risen, and the distance 
is short indeed which separates Him from a be- 
lieving soul. 

From Frankfort we went to Nuremberg. At 
first sight of this famous town, we all expressed our 
disappointment. We first perceived some spires, 
like tall and slender gasometers, over which the 
contents of a huge ink bottle might have been 
poured; and then a number of smoky-looking 
houses, with pitch-black slate roofs. We drove 
through a massive gateway, and it seemed as if two 
seconds had transported us back to the days of our 
fighting forefathers. The town seems the very 
beau-ideal of a city of feudal times. Our hotel was 
situated on the banks of the river, just opposite the 
Rag Market. Had we taken a pleasure sail on its 
flowing waters, what a shower of refuse we should 
have got from the windows of the houses overlook- 
ing its channel 1 Violet fancied herself transported 
to the Cowgate of Edinburgh; and, indeed, the 
Cowgate could not have been very different in its 
palmy days. 

But, Nuremberg, we did thee injustice ! A stroll 
through the streets excited our admiration of thy 
massive architecture. What strange ideas of mag- 
nificence people had in former days ! Fancy attic 
windows with nine Ionic pillars round each, and 



14 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

gables with tall Gothic pinnacles from each projec- 
tion. We strolled out at one of the tremendous 
holes through the fortifications, which are called 
gates, crossed a bridge over the gigantic moat 
which surrounds the city, and found ourselves 
among beautiful shady walks. But what a gloomy 
existence to be pent up within these thick 
walls ! 

The beautiful churches of St. Sebald and St. 
Lawrence are used for Protestant worship, although 
the decorations of Catholic times are preserved 
intact. On Sunday we were reminded of Edin- 
burgh by seeing the people hurrying to church 
under dripping umbrellas. 

On Tuesday morning we sent our heavier lug- 
gage to Vienna, and took train for Munich. We 
travelled in the same carriage with a German artist, 
of some celebrity, who, with his wife, was going to 
Florence for the winter. Our eight hours' journey 
was beguiled by much interesting conversation. 
With one remark of the gentleman's Agnes 
thoroughly agreed — viz : that modern education 
(at least, of the fashionable kind,) tends to degrade 
men from the high ideal for which God created 
them. Violet informed them of the agitation in 
England with regard to the admission of women to 
the franchise- This made the gentleman very 



RUBEN8 " LAST JUDGMENT. 15 

angry. He wrote out some verses of Schiller's for 
our edification, and seemed to think they should 
settle the matter. 

" Oh !" said his wife, " such an idea never enters 
the mind of a German woman." 

But soon, her husband having exhausted his 
arguments, and seeking repose in the arms of 
Morpheus, she gave a quiet look to see that he did 
not hear her, and then whispered — 

" You are quite right, we German women are 
far too much in subjection " (viel zu unterihanig). 

In the old Pinakothek of Munich is a very fine 
collection of Rubens. Rubens here shines more 
than he does in Paris, but does not come up to 
what he is at Antwerp. We were much impressed 
with his " Last Judgment." Amongst the ascend- 
ing figures on the right are two friends who seem 
to be recognising each other. Their mother, as we 
supposed her to be, is on the other side, and 
stretches out her hands to them in an agony of 
despair. The descending figures are perfectly thrill- 
ing in the horror they inspire. Demons clutching 
people by the hair, and carrying them off in tri- 
umph, make one exclaim involuntarily, " Keep me 
from such a fate !" 

Rubens is not always pleasing. The hand that 
painted the "Descent* from the Cross," should 



i 



16 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

never have been employed on any but the purest 
subjects ; and when pictures do not appeal to our 
best feelings, it is a waste of t time to look at them. 
It is a great mistake to paint horrible scenes. 
Painting, like poetry, should seek to elevate our 
minds ; and what elevation is there in a lion killing 
a man, or in Bethlehem mothers biting the arms 
and scratching the faces of the soldiers who slaugh- 
ter their children ? 

To look at Rubens' painting after Albert Diirer's, 
is like reading Byron after George Herbert. And 
yet, with all his wonderful powers of vivid colour- 
ing, he is of the earth, earthy. Even his celestial 
spirits have anything but glorified bodies. Now, 
Guido Reni is, if one may so speak, heavenly. His 
every touch has a tinge of the blue sky about it, 
and he is seldom guilty of mixing up mythological 
and sacred subjects, which is so profane ; or mytho- 
logical and historical, which is so puzzling. Each of 
his paintings is a simple idea, which the mind can 
take in and contemplate without distraction. 

We wondered why Violet was so much more 
charmed with pictures of the Madonna than with 
those of the Saviour. Perhaps because she could 
enjoy them without so much fear of profanity. 
How can or how dare any one paint the divine 
Jesus? "We shall see Him as He is," and the 



RUBENS. 17 

highest effort of human genius will then appear 
worse than child's play ; or, rather, will be forgot- 
ten. And when a man like Rubens could paint 
the " Crucifixion " and " Castor and Pollux" equally 
well, may we not suspect that both to him were 
alike mythological ? 



c 



18 



CHAPTER II. 

MUNICH TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 

WHEN we left for Innsbruck, Violet declared 
that her eyes were tired, and that she could 
scarcely believe Munich to be a German town. The 
last we saw of the beautiful city was the arm of the 
colossal statue, " Bavaria," outstretched above a 
wood. The railway from Kufstein to Innsbruck 
runs along the banks of the Inn, through a valley 
lined on either side with densely wooded and 
wildly serried mountains, which autumn had just 
begun to streak with brown. The air at Innsbruck 
was very cool and refreshing. A strong wind was 
blowing down the Brenner Pass. We attended 
English service in the saloon of the hotel. It is a 
room gaily fitted up for concerts, and its windows 
command a fine view of the mountains. " Heaven 
and earth are full of the majesty of Thy glory." 
The lofty, rugged peaks, the woods just turning 
yellow, the moving mist, everything contributes to 



DRIVE TO ST. JOHANN. 19 

exalt our ideas of Nature. This is the great high- 
way between Germany and Italy. "The south 
wind and sirocco," says a German professor, " are 
made to pay tribute at the snowy frontier of the 
Brenner." 

The road to Schonberg runs through a succession 
of beautiful .views — now through a dell quite 
covered with lofty pines, now rounding an emi- 
nence that overlooks the channel where the Sill 
rushes foaming from its lofty cradle. Across the 
torrent is the Brenner railway. Workmen were 
repairing it, and fastening the earth on the sloping 
mountain side with wisps of straw. As we returned 
to Innsbruck, the setting sun gilded some of the 
mountain tips with rosy light, like lamps hung high 
on the roof of some vast cathedral. 

But most delightful was our drive from Worgl to 
St. Johann. The country reminded us somewhat 
of the road between Macroom and Killarney, and 
somewhat of Ventnor. It is very richly wooded ; 
the light green of the mountain ash has a delicious 
effect amongst the sombre pines, whilst now and 
then dark red rocks peer out of the forests. Above 
tower the chalk ridges. The bright green grass, the 
purling streams at our feet, the sunny sky and cool 
mountain air, all made us forget how far we had 
travelled. Every now and then a rude crucifix 

c2 



20 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

adorned the road, to which our driver made a most 
respectful bow. We passed many processions of 
cows, pigs, sheep, and goats returning to their win- 
ter stalls from the heights where they had grazed 
during the summer. Some of the cows were de- 
corated with bells, flowers, and ferns tastefully ar- 
ranged. The herd, who had lived in a ch&let be- 
side them, walked first in national costume, with 
flowers and feathers in his cap, and in his hand 
a bottle of schnapps, of which he offered us a 
taste. 

In the clean little inn at St. Johann we enjoyed 
an excellent dinner of soup, snow-reared "blue," 
trout, chicken, and Tyrolese cakes. Never did we 
meet with more epicurean luxuries or with more 
friendly entertainers. The people stood at the door, 
and wished us a prosperous journey as we went 
off. 

Nothing could exceed the beauty of our next 
day's drive. Richly coloured wooded hills, sur- 
mounted by bold cliffs that looked sometimes like 
the battlements of a castle, and deep green dells, 
skirted the valley on either side. This valley be- 
comes gradually narrower, till it enters the pass of 
Strub, that gate of the Tyrol which was so heroically 
defended against the Bavarians in 1805. 

We thought Lofer the most romantically-situated 



AUSTBIANS AND PRUSSIANS. 21 

village we had as yet seen. It is surrounded by a 
circle of hills, each a study of itself. The drive by 
Unken, Reichenbach, and amongst the ghost -like 
pines by moonlight to Salzburg, will not soon be 
forgotten. But the varied loveliness of the scenery 
around Salzburg, Berchtesgaden, the Konigsee, the 
lakes of Fuschl, St. Wolfgang, the Traunsee, the 
environs of Ischl, that most enchanting of spas, and 
Linz, would take too long to describe. 

On board the Danube steamer we had our first 
glimpse of Austrian society. They seem a good- 
natured, kindly race, but are rather effeminate and 
fond of luxury, though somewhat more refined in 
manners than their Northern rivals. We were sur- 
prised to learn that the Prussians had come in 1866 
so near Vienna as the town of Stein. 

" Do you not dislike the Prussians?" we asked of 
a gentleman. 

"Oh, no," he answered. "They used our own rail- 
ways and every means of transport they could get. 
They were here before we were aware ; but it is all 
forgotten now. They are our brothers, and at our 
last shooting matches we shook hands with them as 
if we had never quarrelled." 

It strikes a stranger as very singular that on the 
Danube there is a total absence of all attempts at 
ship-building. To see such splendid wood floating 



22 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

down so mighty a stream makes one also expect to 
hear the clink of hammers. The villages and piers 
along the banks are insignificant. Even the landing- 
place at the metropolis would hide its diminished 
head if placed beside the quay of Ryde. It may be 
pled as an excuse for this want of industry that the 
lower course of the river does not belong to Austria ; 
but how long would Englishmen have remained 
without so valuable a possession ? 

Our quarters were in the old or inner town of 
Vienna. Unlike other cities, the centre is the fash- 
ionable part, and is distinguished by its high houses 
and narrow streets. There is no pavement, and 
one must pay particular attention to the work of 
avoiding carriage-wheels. Round the inner town 
runs the old glacis, now metamorphosed into the 
Ring Strasse, and lined with handsome houses. The 
suburbs appeared to us an infinitely preferable place 
of residence ; but we took things as we found them, 
and consoled ourselves by occupying an apartment 
at the top of the house, where we could at least 
get a few whiffs of fresh air. Here we remained a 
month, Agnes indulging in a slight indisposition. 
We scarcely felt that we were in a hotel, every one 
connected with the establishment was so friendly, 
taking an interest in our welfare which was courte- 
ous without being intrusive. 



H6TEL FRANKFORT. 23 

The waiter who served on our floor amused us 
much. He was very anxious to learn English, but 
had little opportunity of practising what he knew, 
as our countrymen are not yet much acquainted with 
the excellent cuisine and attentive management of 
the Hotel Frankfort. We lent him a conversation 
book ; and one morning his anxiety on the subject 
led him to say, 

11 If the Herrschaft mil always speak German, 
how am I ever to learn English ? " 

" Very well," said Violet, "we will speak German 
one day, and English the next." 

The first " English " day we ordered dinner, and 
had not the least conception of what we were to get 
until it came. He had made considerable progress 
before we left. 

We occupied much of our time preparing for our 
further journey. Violet laid in a good stock of 
insect powder, and provided herself also with a 
small pistol — to fire it off ! We fancied that broad- 
brimmed straw hats would prove the most efficient 
protection from the sun; and, after a diligent 
search, found some in a small shop in the Seiler 
Gasse. 

When we had taken our tickets for the last ser- 
vice of the season, Agnes began to be a little ap- 
prehensive. 



24 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" True, the steamboats are said to be excellent ; 
but we are going out of civilization, and your 
hitherto admirable management may fail us, 9 ' said 
she. 

Perhaps this fear was excited by the dread for 
our safety expressed by a Viennese lady. How- 
ever, the tickets were already taken. We relin- 
quished the idea of visiting Pesth, as Agnes was 
only able to travel the day before the vessel start- 
ed. This she greatly regretted, as she disliked be- 
ginning the journey on Sunday. After attending 
service in the well-filled Evangelical church, we 
started from an exceedingly handsome station at 
two o'clock. 

Madame Juanita, a young married lady from 
Bucharest, was our only companion. She 
had spent the winter with her parents at Nice, 
and was returning home from Paris, whence she 
had imported the last fashion in dress and manners. 
Her native language was Roumanian, which sounds 
something like Italian, but she spoke French and 
German well. Some scraps of her conversation 
may be recalled : 

Violet. — What sort of a place is Bucharest ? 

Madame J. — Oh ! quite a little Paris. If you 
only saw the carriages and the costumes, you 
would think yourself in France. We have very 



MADAME JUANITA. 25 

great luxury. Indeed, we outdo the Parisians in 
luxury! 

Agnes. — But how do you get the fashions ? 

Madame Juanita. — Why, our milliners go to 
Paris three times a year. 

Agnes. — All that way ! 

Madame J. — Yes. Why not ? 

Violet. — Are you not very glad to go home ? 

Madame J. — No. 

.Violet. — Your husband will be delighted to see 
you. 

Madame J. — Oh, my marriage has been like 
most others in Bucharest, A young girl can know 
nothing of her future lord until she is betrothed. 
My parents arranged it for me ; it was considered a 
good settlement ; and now I see little of him. He 
drinks and plays cards, and at dinner-time is too 
stupid to speak to me. 

Agnes. — But can you not try to win him from 
that ? 

Madame J. — Oh no ! Impossible ! 

Edith. — And how do you like your sovereign, 
the Sultan ? 

Madame J. — The Sultan is not our sovereign. 
We hate the Turks. They are not Christians ! 

Violet. — Oh ! you are like the people in Vienna. 
They hate the Jews. We had a discussion with a 



26 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Viennese on that subject, and he told us of a con- 
versation he once had with a Jewish lady about the 
characteristics of her nation. " Why is it," said he, 
" that if one ill-treats a Jew who asks a favour of 
him, if one kicks him downstairs, and calls him the 
vilest names, he will yet return to attain his object ? 
There must be something mean-spirited about your 
people." " Do you not know," answered the lady, 
" that a Christian cannot offend a Jew ? The Chris- 
tian belongs to such an infinitely inferior race, that 
his insults have no more effect on the Jew than the 
barking of a dog." 

Madame J. — Well, that is one way of looking 
at it. But we hate the Jews. 

Edith. — Our Saviour was a Jew. 

Madame J. — Ah ! A Jew is a Jew wherever 
he is! 

We arrived at Pesth, and what a change from 
Vienna ! The luggage was hurried in a very con- 
fused style from the train into a station-room much 
too small for the purpose; and such a scene of 
pushing, struggling, shouting, and swearing ensued, 
that Agnes was glad to creep unobserved into a 
corner. 

Violet engaged the services of a porter. Madame 
Juanita, who had an immense quantity of heavy 



BUDA AND PESTH. 27 

luggage, thrust herself forward as if she were one 
of our party, with the view of securing the man's 
services, and profiting by our friendliness as much 
as possible. In an instant all her refinement dis- 
appeared ; she swore the most fearful oaths, and 
worked both herself and the man into a state of 
excited perplexity. With some difficulty we managed 
to point out our boxes, get them conveyed to a car- 
riage without Madame Juanita perceiving that we 
had the start of her, and drove off to secure 
the separate cabin for which we had paid before- 
hand. 

Agnes rose at six next morning to have a view 
of the twin capitals of Hungary in the light of the 
rising sun. Buda is most strikingly situated, but is 
poorly built. The gorgeous Imperial palace and 
the fort-crowned rock contrast strongly with the 
miserable little cabins which do duty as houses. 
At the foot of the rock are the famous sulphur 
baths, where Hungarian peasants from all parts of 
the country bathe pell-mell. Pesth is regularly 
and well built. A handsome suspension-bridge 
unites the two towns. The river is here full of 
. curious saw-mills, driven by its current. 

The company on board our steamer was of many 
nations. Fourteen languages were spoken amongst 
the fifty people who sat down to dinner after we 



28 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

left Basiasch. The Wallachs and Italians seemed 
very fond of amusement, and wbiled away the long 
evenings by playing at games. These were carried 
on in four different languages, viz., French, German, 
Wallach, and Italian. America had one representa- 
tive ; France none. 

On Tuesday the scenery became extremely 
grand. Wooded mountains, crowned with castel- 
lated crags, hemmed in the clear waters ; and they 
in their turn reflected the scenery brightly. We 
had to get into a smaller boat, on account of the 
lowness of the water, and changed a second time 
into a tiny little craft, which took us through what 
is called the Iron Gate, a succession of rapid, whirl- 
ing currents, caused by submerged rocks. Here 
the waters curl and foam like the waves of the 
sea. 

During this transit Agnes tried to improve her 
somewhat rusty Italian by talking with an old lady. 

"I am a native of Dalmatia," said she ; " my 
husband belonged to Trieste ; but now I live with 
my daughter, who is married to the commander of 
a fort in this neighbourhood. Oh ! dear, how you 
young people go about the world ! What a change 
since I can remember !" 

" Yes," replied Agnes ; " railways must have 
made a difference." 



CONVERSATION WITH AN OLD LADY. 29 

" I should just think so. If one of us had gone 
from Dalmatia to Belgrade, he would have made 
his will before setting out — it was like going out of 
the world. Little did I think I should live to make 
the journey twice a year." 

"Were you ever at Constantinople?" asked 
Agnes. 

" Oh ! yes, I went to Turkey and Greece just 
after I was married. But the Janissaries were at 
Constantinople then, and they would have mur- 
dered me had they known I was a European lady. 
So I put on male attire, and my husband introduced 
me as his nephew." 

The conversation then turned on the necessity 
for education amongst the working classes of Italy 
and England ; and Agnes expressed her surprise 
at the readiness with which all languages seem to 
be spoken in this part of the world. 

" Oh ! yes," said the old lady ; " yesterday we 
were passing between Servia and Hungary; to-day we 
have Wallachia on the north and Servia on the 
south ; to-morrow you will be in Bulgaria. But 
though the people of these countries are half wild, 
they have an astonishing faculty for speaking many 
languages. You would almost think the children 
lisp in two or three at once. The Servians are by 
far the best husbandmen." 



30 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

At Torno we were transferred into a larger boat. 
Its captain was a native of Illyria. Violet and 
Agnes were placed next him at dinner, and it soon 
appeared that he could only understand Italian. 
Though Violet could speak German and French 
with ease, not having been in Italy, she had hitherto 
had no opportunity of talking Italian ; but, being 
destitute of the mauvaise honte peculiar to her 
countrywomen, and never at a loss for a word, she 
made the captain laugh so much, that we thought 
he would take a fit of apoplexy. 

" I do not often find English people so agreeable," 
said he. "They are generally very stiff, and if 
you make them a civil bow, they stare at you. 
And they are so conceited about their own lan- 
guage, that they seldom learn to speak anything 
else." 

At this Violet fired up and said, 

" Oh ! what a mistake you are making ! It is 
only their natural modesty which prevents their 
doing justice to themselves ; and so they have no 
chance with other nations." 

This remark was the more ridiculous as a very 
pompous Englishman was present, who looked as if 
every one was there for his benefit. 

" You are very witty," said the captain. 

" Well, I didn't know it before. But perhaps I 



CONVERSATION WITH A ROUMANIAN LADY. 31 

have been talking wit all my life, without knowing 
it, as M. Jourdain talked prose." 

As we were two days behind our time, some of 
the company were thrown very much on each 
other's society. One highly-educated lady, the 
wife of a Wallachian general, entertained us by her 
intelligent remarks on many interesting subjects. 
We thought we could slightly trace in them the 
effects of the evangelical kiosk at the Paris Exhi- 
bition on those of a different faith. 

The conversation had turned on America. 

" I am glad to be a Roumanian," said the Gene- 
ral's wife ; " but had I been born an American, I 
should have been proud to belong to such a great 
country. Yet I cannot bear the Americans. They 
are so entirely engrossed by commerce, they have 
no time to cultivate literature or poetry." 

"But there may be much poetry in business," 
said Violet. " It all depends on the spirit in which 
they carry it on." 

" Well, I acknowledge that they rest on Sunday, 
Bible in hand." 

" Oh !" said Mr. H , an Armenian, " if they 

read the Bible one day in seven, they may get a 
very good taste for literature." 

"What do you think of the Bible?" asked 
Violet. 



32 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" I do not believe it. Renan has virtually dis- 
proved the divinity of Jesus ; and without that the 
whole Bible falls to the ground." 

" Then what do you think becomes of the soul 
after death ?" 

"Do you see that engine? What moves it? 
Steam. The soul is just like an engine. It ceases 
to be anything after the steam is gone out of it." 

" How unhappy you must feel to think so I" an- 
swered Violet. 

" How ? Do you believe differently ?" 

" Yes ; I believe in our Saviour, and I believe in 
.he Resurrection." 

" Well, if I could believe in the Divinity of Jesus, 
I should be much happier. Perhaps I shall find it 
some day ; but how strange that I should have been 
four days in a boat with those who possess this 
faith, and from whom I might have learnt a 
precious lesson, had we spoken sooner on the 
subject." 

" But here we are at Nicopoli," said some one, 
interrupting. " Is this the first time you have seen 
the Turks? What a miserable, dirty race! A 
solemn warning to all men to have only one wife ! 
Those in the long coats and red tarbouches are the 
civilized Turks ; those in petticoats and turbans be- 
long to the old school." 



RUTSCHUK. 33 

We arrived at Rutschuk just as it was getting dark. 
The delay of our steamer for two days had put all the 
arrangements wrong. The only accommodation in 
the place is an old warehouse of the Company's 
which they have fitted up with bedsteads, and though 
it was labelled " Grand H6tel de Rutschuk," we were 
not inclined to believe Mr. H 's laughing as- 
surance that the " Grand Hdtel " of Paris was built 
after its model. 

Some of the Wallachian ladies accompanied us on 
shore. A Turkish official forbade them to pass, and 
it was a comedy to watch how they accomplished 
their object by the most earnest entreaties. In the 
midst of the scene Violet was asked by a grave- 
looking Moslem for her passport. She gave it at 
first, but he stood so long trying to spell it, that she 
took it out of his hand, and hurried to the hotel to 
secure rooms. An American kindly relinquished 
his apartment for us ; and what was our delight, in- 
stead of finding Turks, as we expected, to be greet- 
ed with " guten Abend " by a tidy landlady ! 

" Oh ! madame, you feel a disgust at the Turks !" 
she said. " They are nasty people — they are not 
Christians! There is not one of them in our 
house !" 

Our room was clean, though the walls were 
damp. We could scarcely believe that it was our 

D 



l 



34 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

first night in the East, that romantic land of which 
we had heard so much ; but the impression of its 
reality was deepened when the morning was ushered 
in by the prolonged crowing of a cock. 

The railway between Rutschuk and Varna is the 
worst in Europe. It is so. bad that trains are not 
allowed to run on it by night. When we got to 
the station we found a crowd of Turks of both 
sexes. How uncomfortable the women must feel 
with those nasty veils over their mouths! The 
previous day had been bright and warm, but now 
it was bitterly cold. Snow fell continuously, and 
the country was enveloped in one huge white sheet. 
The railway carriages were destitute of comfort. A 
hole in the roof where the lamp should have been 
let in a continual draught on our heads. And the 
train stopped for more than an hour, for some 
unaccountable reason, at several insignificant sta- 
tions. 

We were totally unprovided with winter clothing, 
and not a morsel of food could we procure during 
the whole journey, except some black sausages. A 
party in the next carriage were starving ; but we had 
provided ourselves with a bottle of wretched wine, 
and a half-boiled fowl rolled in paper, and eaten 
with nature's forks. 

" Oh," said Agnes, " if we must take dinner 



VARNA, 35 

this way for the next six months, how I wish we had 
never left home !" 

However, the English Consul, to whom we had 
been introduced at Rutschuk, took a peep at us, 
and said we knew how to make ourselves comfort- 
able in difficulties. 

We arrived at Varna after sunset, were trans- 
ferred into a curiously-hooded chaise, and whirled 
over rough roads, covered with mud indescribable. 
On what an inhospitable spot did our poor soldiers 
encamp during the Crimean war ! We passed 
through an arched gateway, where we were chal- 
lenged by a Turkish sentinel, and then through two 
lines of wild-looking soldiers. The streets are 
merely rows of wooden cabins. We rattled along 
them at the risk of being overturned. At the har- 
bour a crowd of Turks took possession of us and 
our baggage, shouting and hallooing in so many 
tongues that all we could make out was, " Madama! 
Madama !" " Madama" was certainly well attended 
to, for we were lifted bodily into a little boat riding 
on the top of the dancing waves. It became much 
overcrowded when the other passengers arrived. 
How romantic we felt whilst rowing out to the ves- 
sel on such a dark seal But we were nearly 
swamped in attempting to enter it on the wrong 
side. We were told that the Turks are much better 

d2 



36 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

than their reputation, and do not ill-treat their wives, 
though their Government ill-treats them. 

We found ourselves in the Bosphorus after a 
night of plunging and tossing. What a lovely view 
greeted our eyes through the driving sleet ! The 
green hills and white buildings looked as if an 
artist had arranged them with an eye to effect. 

"What is that large, desolate-looking house?" 
asked Agnes of an English resident. 

" A specimen of Turkish mismanagement. It has 
stood unfinished for the last ten years, having 
been built for one of the Sultan s daughters who lost 
her husband and father before its completion." 

For some caprice of their " hareem," the Turkish 
princes have pulled down most of their magnificent 
palaces and mosques, the precious legacies of their 
forefathers, and used the materials in erecting edifices 
not half the size. 

One palace was bought on contract by a specu- 
lator. He pulled it down, and sold the material to 
Government for a new building, at an immense 
profit to himself. The Sultan now lives in the 
palace you see near Therapia. Its windows afford 
no view, but for it they have left the old palace, 
which occupied the most commanding position in 
the town, and whose courts covered a space as 
large as the inner town of Vienna. For these ex- 



LANDING IN TURKEY. 37 

travagancies the Government borrows money from 
Europe. They cannot collect much of their re- 
venues, owing to the rapacity of officials. There is 
no education ; there are no courts of justice ; there 
is no pay for the soldiers. But the people's eyes 
are being opened by their misery, and they have 
become much less fanatical. Yet I do not call 
Turkey a sick man, nor do I think it is destined to 
become a prey to Russia. The people have virtues 
which deserve better treatment. They are indus- 
trious and honest, until a rise in the social scale 
puts the idea of rapacity into their heads. You will 
find them most polite and attentive to strangers. 

The commissionaire of the Hotel d'Angleterre 
was in waiting. He transferred us and our lug- 
gage into a little boat, where we were joined by 
an American gentleman. Our boxes were opened 
in the miserable little Custom-house of Tophana, 
but, owing to the influence of a small " baksheesh," 
they were not searched. 

" Have you not got a cab for us ?" asked Violet. 

"There are no cabs here, madame," said Ric- 
ciotti, laughing. " The goods must be all carried 
on the backs of men." 

" Oh ! if I had known that, I would have sent 
them straight to Alexandria, or packed them so 
that we could have left otoe in the Custom-house." 



38 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

So on we trudged, following our trunks, like the 
elephants, through dirt of every description, and 
only half protected by our umbrellas from the 
pouring rain — now stepping aside to avoid a pass- 
ing horse, now giving a wide berth to some snarl- 
ing cur which nestled in a heap of half-decayed 
vegetable refuse. The American all the time came 
tripping behind. 

" Well, woman is a strange phenomenon," said 
he. " What has tempted you to leave your comfort- 
able homes, and travel so far to endure this sort of 
thing? I wonder what these men's backs are 
made of?" 

" But here we are at Misseri's hotel," said Ric- 
dotti, " and you may sit at the drawing-room fire 
until rooms and breakfast are ready." 



39 



CHAPTER III. 



CONSTAN T INOP LE. 



MADAME MISSERI understands how to make 
people comfortable. Like all Oriental 
houses, the hotel is not attractive on the outside ; 
but within order, cleanliness, and abundance reign 
supreme. How delightful it was to sit round the 
open stove, and feel the discomforts of the past 
thirty-six hours fade into oblivion ! The floods of 
heaven might beat outside on Oriental squalor, but 
the attentions of Hellenic housemen made us fancy 
ourselves in England. 

Next day we went to church. We had engaged 
Ricciotti for six francs a day, as ladies cannot 
walk unattended in Eastern towns. We picked 
our way over wretchedly-paved streets, lined with 
wooden houses, catching an occasional glimpse of 
the city of Stamboul, which is separated from Pera 
by the harbour of the Golden Horn. The inhabit- 
ants of Pera seem to be mostly Greeks. In the 



40 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

< 

afternoon we visited a kiosk, to see the perform- 
ance of the dancing dervishes. A circular space in 
the interior was railed off, and outside the railing 
squatted a crowd of Turkish spectators. On the 
most conspicuous spot of the interior sat a solemn- 
faced dervish, in a woollen cloak and high round 
felt cap. All round knelt other dervishes similarly 
attired. They sometimes rose and formed into 
lines ; but whatever their order, they prostrated 
their bodies until the forehead touched the ground, 
rocking up and down to a monotonous chant. The 
chief sometimes clasped his hands and recited a 
drawling prayer. Sounds of unearthly singing 
streamed from a rickety gallery above, and made 
us wonder how human throats could be capable of 
such yells. At length they all rose. Each passed 
separately before the mat of the president, folded 
his hands, and made a salaam in a sort of whirl ; 
then, throwing off their black cloaks, they appear- 
ed in green petticoats and short jackets. They ex- 
tended their arms, and commenced a rapid spin- 
ning to the music of a jingling tambourine. They 
whirled with such speed that we expected some of 
them to drop down in a faint. At last they made 
a sudden stop, prostrated themselves afresh, and 
recommenced their evolutions, which we had not 
patience to see to a close. 



FRENZIED WORSHIPPERS. 41 

We next threaded our way along paths whose 
mud had become very adhesive, and found our 
way into another curious room, crowded with men 
in black cloaks and turbans, mounted a stair, and 
took our places in a wooden gallery. At the other 
side of the room the bright eyes of the gentler sex 
might be seen peering through the holes of a per 
forated wooden screen. A number of grotesque 
objects were seated round a priest, chanting prayers 
very rapidly. 

At length they all rose and formed a close line, 
shoulder to shoulder. They then made a simul- 
taneous measured movement, rocking, bending, 
stooping, without moving their feet. They uttered 
most unearthly cries and yells, and seemed to be 
repeating some history, of which all we could make 
out was, " Maoraetto ! — Mustafa P Some- 
times they would jerk out such a shout, and heave 
up together with such vehement energy, that we 
thought how fearful must have been the frenzy 
with which the first propagators of such a worship 
forced it at the point of the sword upon an unwill- 
ing population. Their movements gradually became 
more rapid and more complicated. Sometimes 
they bent forward until their bowed heads formed 
a line something in the shape of a crescent. Some- 
times they cackled out from exhausted lungs a 



42 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

sound that we imagined might only be heard hi 
severe bronchitis. We really expected some of 
them to drop down dead ; and when they came to 
a sudden stop the pause was perfectly awful. 
The women then sent down their sick children to 
be cured. This the priest effected by touching the 
diseased spot and muttering something in a low 
voice. Some men submitted to the same process. 
If the pain was in the back, the patient lay down 
and the priest stood on him. 

After leaving this we climbed the hill above 
Pera, to enjoy the magnificent view and get rid of 
our sad impressions. The panorama around Con- 
stantinople is finer than that about Naples. The 
white city with its domes and minarets, the back- 
ground of verdant hills, with villas or palaces peep- 
ing out from dark foliage, the blue ship-dotted 
waters, all stand out clearly from the sky, their 
sharply-cut outlines being traced with a distinctness 
unknown in Northern climes. We could see dis- 
tinctly Scutari with its barracks, the scene of Flor- 
ence Nightingale's labours, and down the Sea of 
Marmora to the Prince's Islands. At our feet was 
the Sultan's winter palace; the centre part is his 
residence; one side contains the dining-room, the 
other the harem. 

Next day we shared with most of the visitors 



TURKISH SHOPS. 43 

in the hotel the expense of obtaining a firman in 
order to visit the mosques. This was managed by 
our respective valets de place. We obtained a car- 
riage, which is a most unsuitable conveyance for 
such narrow streets, and drove over the single 
bridge which unites the two halves of Turkey's me- 
tropolis. Here the pavement was " up," and seve- 
ral unfortunate horses struggled through a shower 
of blows and kicks to drag their loads over the 
uneven surface. Then began our studies of true 
Oriental life. The shops resemble open cupboards, 
and are raised a few feet from the ground. The 
goods are piled on shelves all round, having only 
sufficient space for the proprietor and an assistant 
to spread their carpets and squat. But how very 
industrious they all seemed ! Life is serious enough 
to these picturesque-looking men. They ply their 
various handicrafts in full sight of the passers-by, 
and if anyone wishes to make a purchase, a dozen 
or so of strangers are always ready to tender their 
advice as to the price. 

The old seraglio has been burnt. It is said to 
have been set on fire by the late Sultan's wives, 
who found it too gloomy a residence for their 
widowhood. Its site was being laid out by Abdul 
Aziz as a European garden. The more modern 
seraglio stands in a park of tall cypresses. The 



44 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

dining-room is handsomely furnished with steel 
mirrors, Turkey carpets, and European luxuries. 
At either end is an antechamber. The windows of 
one command an unrivalled view of Scutari and the 
Sea of Marmora. To the south are seen the snow- 
clad hills of Broussa, surmounted by Olympus in 
his robe of dazzling white. From the other we 
had an equally fine view of the Bosphorus and the 
Golden Horn with their countless vessels. The 
kiosk of Bagdad and the audience-chamber are se- 
parate buildings, and each is a marvel of Eastern 
taste. In the latter is the Sultan's state throne, re- 
sembling a four-post bedstead, on which he sits on 
a certain day of the year to receive the homage of 
his pashas and the respects of foreign ambassadors. 
The Sublime Porte is the marble gateway of a large 
courtyard where the Sultan stands on f&e days. 

The armoury is an old Christian Basilica in a state 
of disrepair, with a Greek text still legible above 
the dilapidated altar. The models in costume of 
the Janissaries are too varied and curious to allow 
of description. Here is shown their bastinado, an 
iron chain weighted by a heavy ball, and also the 
block on which the whole ferocious tribe was be- 
headed by order of Mahmoud. 

The Aja Sofia, or Mosque of St. Sofia, was built 
by Justinian after a plan which he thought he had 



ST. SOFIA. 45 

received from an angel. It was believed to surpass 
the Temple of Solomon, and was for ages the won- 
der and glory of the Christian world. Mounting 
into its gallery by a black stairway, we all uttered 
an exclamation of wonder and delight as we gazed 
on the noble edifice. The eight large pillars which 
support the side galleries were brought from the 
Temple of the Sun at Baalbek. Others there are, 
with ornate capitals, which belonged to that of 
Diana at Ephesus. 

The mosaics which adorn the roof are more rich 
than those of Italian churches. The groundwork 
is mostly golden, and every device has the form of 
a cross somewhere about it. They pretend to make 
out our Saviour's countenance near the large win- 
dow, and the figures of Peter and Paul near the 
grand entrance door. The Turks have effaced the 
form of the cross wherever they could manage to 
do so without injuring the decorations. A pair of 
magnificent bronze doors has been carried away to 
Venice. Its place is supplied by wooden ones. 
We saw a priest, in a high pulpit, haranguing to 
separate parties of men and veiled women. Ac- 
cording to Ricciotti's translation, he was telling them 
how much better it was in the days of Mahomet, 
when people gave a hundred piastres where now 
they only give five. 



46 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Mohammedan places of worship are remarkable 
for their scrupulous cleanliness. The floors are 
covered with carpet or straw-matting, and every 
one who enters is obliged to put on slippers. 
Agnes thought that in this respect the Turks are 
superior to the Catholics. She could remember 
visiting the crypt of St. Peter's at Rome, where the 
marble shrines of so many royal and holy men — 
nay, the very graves of the Apostles — were all 
bespattered with tallow from the thick candles 
which the careless sacristans carried. 

Violet suggested that English families might in- 
troduce a similar custom, with advantage, into their 
dwellings. 

The Ahmediyeh, or Mosque of Ahmed, has four 
gigantic pillars supporting an immense cupola. 
The Pigeon Mosque is a large round building with 
an aviary in the centre. But the Suleimanyeh, or 
Mosque of Solyman, excels all the others in the 
simple grandeur of its proportions. It is an im- 
mensely large building, with a lofty cupola. The 
view of the interior is not obstructed by pillars. 
The stained glass windows are extremely rich. The 
walls are a mass of bright colours beautifully 
blended. An involuntary " Oh !" escaped from 
the lips of every one who entered this truly won- 
derful building. 



PLACE DE l'hIPPODROME. 47 

The few remains of Byzantian glory are to be 
found in the Place de l'Hippodrorae. One pillar 
had the misfortune to have its gilded copper cover- 
ing mistaken for gold. It is now a mass of shape- 
less brick. Very interesting is what remains of the 
serpent column brought from Delphi. It is a slight 
spiral pillar, sixteen feet high, composed of three 
green serpents twisted together. Their heads have 
been knocked off by the Sultans. 

We entered the ancient cistern of a thousand and 
one pillars by a flight of stairs leading under- 
ground. The cistern resembles the crypt of a 
church. It is now dry, and has been partially 
filled up with earth by the Greeks, so that the 
pillars are now only half their original height. 
Standing on a small wooden gallery, we saw below 
us a number of Turks working at silk-spinning 
wheels, which made a whirring sound, and in such 
a spot, joined to the Turkish chant which accom- 
panied them, reminded us of some scene from 
Dante's " Inferno." 

In the kiosk which contains the tombs of Sultan 
Suleiman and family, we were much interested in 
a model of the shrine of Mecca. It seems the 
pilgrims walk on iron spikes into a kiosk, where, if 
approved by the priest, they have to traverse a 
long row of similar spikes before reaching the 



48 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

* 

sacred enclosure. In the centre of this is a square 
tower in which the Prophet lies buried. 

The dogs of Constantinople are a quiet-looking 
race during the day time, but at night they are 
very ferocious, and howl most horribly if they 
meet any one in the street. We saw many Turk- 
ish women walking freely about. Their veils of 
thin white muslin set off their faces to great 
advantage, and preserve an enchanting delicacy 
of complexion. All have the same style of 
languid, inanimate eyes. They seem to enjoy 
shopping and marketing as much as their Frankish 
sisters. 

The bazaars are situated in a wooden erection. 
Their long covered passages are lined with shops, 
and wretchedly paved. The rain drips in through 
the roof in wet weather. The wares displayed for 
sale are exclusively Oriental. We became adepts 
at bargaining, for it is always necessary to offer 
only half the price asked. When one merchant 
would not agree to reasonable terms, we w6nt into 
the shop of another; and if our second treaty 
proved unsuccessful, the original party was sure to 
be found waiting outside with the desired object in 
hand. One man declared that he was making a 
tremendous sacrifice by the sale of a jacket, and yet 
he followed us, offering other articles. 



SCENEKY OF THE BOSPHORUS. 49 

Ricciotti appeared to consult our interests in his 
management, and if he received a per centage, it 
could not have been a large one. At Ximenes' 
the goods have fixed prices, which is more agree- 
able to English taste, though not conformable to 
the rules of Eastern trading. Should any dispute 
arise, a self-constituted jury can always be found 
ready, as all true Mussulmans take a deep interest 
in their neighbours' affairs. 

One day we made an excursion in the Bosphorus 
steamer. The deck was shaded by an awning, and 
a portion was screened off for the benefit of the 
Turkish ladies. We threaded our way through 
a crowd of caiques and fishing-boats, by the hill of 
Pera, passing the Sultan's palace, a truly magnifi- 
cent building, whose front is adorned with two rows 
of Corinthian and Ionic columns. There are three 
richly-gilded gates in the handsome railing which 
surrounds it — that towards Pera being remarkably 
gorgeous. We were reminded of biblical scenes 
by seeing boatmen pulling in long nets, which were 
floated out by means of pieces of wood attached to 
ropes. 

The splendid scenery of the Bosphorus began as 
we approached Rumili Hissar. Near to a large 
Turkish burial-place is the Castle of Europe, built 

s 



50 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

by Mohammed Ali ; the ruined Castle of Asia 
standing on the opposite bank. Here the current 
is so strong that boats have to be towed along the 
shore. Close to the Castle of Europe, Darius Hys- 
taspes built his bridge of boats; and on its site 
he sat on a throne of stones, to watch the army 
crossing. 

We crossed to the Asiatic shore, close to the 
Sweet Waters of Asia, the favourite resort of Turk- 
ish ladies in summer. A little further up is the 
Pasha of Egypt's very elegant villa. At Stewin, on 
the European side, the Argonauts built a temple, 
which has been destroyed by the Russians. Oppo- 
site, on the coast of Asia, is a hill, surmounted by 
the Giant's Grave, celebrated by Lord Byron, We 
stopped at Buyukdere, and mounted through 
roughly-paved streets to a very nice hotel, where 
we enjoyed a capital lunch. What a glorious view 
Ave had from the windows ! Agnes declared that 
it was positively the finest she had ever seen. The 
blue sky above, the blue waters below, the wide 
circle of graceful hills, all make Buyukdere a sort 
of earthly paradise. Edith could not understand 
why Bradshaw says that ladies have no business 
here. It might be disagreeable to live in Pera all 
the year round, as one would have little liberty to 



ENVTB0NS OF THE BOSPHORUS. 51 

take outdoor exercise ; but the environs of the 
Bosphorus offer a most inviting residence at any 
season. 



e 2 



52 



CHAPTER IV. 

CONSTANTINOPLE TO CYPRUS. 

WE embarked on board the Austrian Lloyd's 
steam-packet Aurora. It was going on 
the indirect line between Constantinople and Alex- 
andria ; and as the voyage lasted eleven days, I 
must introduce the reader to the small company of 
our fellow-passengers. First, and foremost, is the 
able commander, Captain Rollo. He is the very 
type of a brave seaman, one whose every gesture 
might inspire confidence to the most timid in an 
hour of danger. The second officer is rather taci- 
turn. The third officer, Signor Vincenza, comes 
from Dalmatia. His clear, bell-like Italian voice 
lends a peculiar charm to his conversation. The 
kind fatherly Greek doctor is taking his bright little 
ten years' old daughter on this voyage for the bene- 
fit of her health. We have seldom seen a more 



THIRD GLASS PASSENGERS. 53 

interesting child. She speaks Greek, German, and 
Italian fluently, and has a great thirst for knowledge, 
but a cough threatens to shake her frail body to 
pieces. A Turkish pasha, a Bey, and his son, keep 
very much by themselves, owing to the want of a 
medium of communication with their European 
neighbours. The pasha is brother to a celebrated 
Turkish statesman. 

As we left Stamboul, the crescent moon stood 
like a sign in the sky over it, as on the night when 
Moslem invaders overthrew the empire of the Con- 
stantines. We found Frau Horn and her husband 
relating their experiences to Herr Karl, who had 
spent several years in Cairo, and was now returning 
there on business. 

" Do you see what curious passengers we have in 
the third class? There they sit on mattresses 
below our cabin windows. One part is railed off 
for the Greek women, another for the Turkish. 
They seem to have all their household goods with 
them — quilts, coffee-pots, &c. Poor creatures, they 
must sleep in the open air all night. Most of them 
are going to Mecca, and have never been from home 
before. Just look at their kohl-stained, blue eye- 
lashes, and the palms of their hands, so red with 
henna." 

" Indeed ! These two women belong to that 



54 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

selfish fellow over yonder, who will finish his 
supper before they can taste anything. We 
will make signs to them to come up beside us. 
They ask their husband. No, the jealous crea- 
ture won't allow it ! The windows of Scutari are 
glittering like gold. But there sounds the tea- 
bell." 

"How did you enjoy Constantinople, Frau 
Horn ?" 

" Oh ! very well ; but everything is very dear. 
We managed to get into the mosques by only pay- 
ing a franc at the door. Herr Karl was better than 
any dragoman." 

" I should just think so. A hundred and fifty 
francs is the price of a firman," said Edith. " Each 
of our party paid twenty francs, and as we were 
twenty in number, our valets de place must have 
pocketed a good round sum." 

" Were you ever in England ?" asked Violet. 

" Oh I yes. Herr Horn and I were once in 
London, and never wish to go there again. English 
cooking is wretched; and your streets are not in 
the least fine. We left after two days, for we could 
stand it no longer." 

" In what part of London did you stay ?" 

" In Leicester Square. We would go nowhere 

■ 

where they didn't speak German ; and we had 



ENGLISH AND GERMANS. 55 

such difficulty in finding a place ! I wonder how 
people can live in such a town I" 

" My experience is different," said Herr Karl. " I 
have lived two years in London, and nowhere have 
I met more friendly society. But you need a few 
introductions before you can enjoy yourself. It is 
very delightful for a foreigner, for if he knows one 
family, they will introduce him to a great many 
more. I fear that in Germany we are more selfish 
in this respect, and try to keep an agreeable ac- 
quaintance to ourselves, for fear we should lose 
him. And if you get accustomed to real English 
cookery, you will find it more healthy than 
ours." 

" Oh, well, it may be so, but I cannot believe it," 
said Mrs. Horn. 

44 1 think the Viennese have a fault they might 
improve," said Agnes. " They try to show off their 
accomplishments by mixing so many languages to- 
gether. Sometimes one can scarcely understand 
them." 

"And I dislike a habit which the lower classes 
have of kissing your hand. It is beneath the dig- 
nity of human nature," said Violet. 

" But you must acknowledge that the working- 
classes in your country are much behind ours in in- 
telligence," said Herr Karl. " I have often been 



56 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

disgusted with the ignorance and the narrow views 
of English tradesmen. I do not speak of languages, 
for I know you are an insular people ; but one may 
reasonably expect a man who carries on business to 
have some general information on scientific subjects, 
or to have read some history." 

"Scotland is before England in this respect," 
suggested Edith ; " and it will be improved when 
we have a national system of education." 

Next morning we found ourselves in the Straits 
of the Dardanelles. On either side of the narrow 
channel are two castles, supposed to be those of 
Abydos and Sestos, where Leander and Lord 
Byron swam across. The Bay of Dardanelles has 
a slight resemblance to that of Constantinople, only 
without a gulf to correspond with the Golden Horn. 
We steamed along the coast, past the plain and 
town of Troy. A mound on the shore is said to be 
the tomb of Achilles. A similar one behind it is 
that of Hector. Further on we saw the site of 
Troas, or New Troy, which was built by Alexander 
the Great. 

We stopped at Mitylene during the night, and 
in the morning found ourselves in the harbour 
of Smyrna. Smyrna is situated in a fine bay, 
with a beautiful cluster of hills on either side. 
Great was the disappointment of Mr. Horn when he 



SMYRNA. 57 

found that the steamboat arrangements did not per- 
mit of our making an excursion in the railway to 
Ayasalook, the ancient Ephesus. 

However, we went on shore, Herr Karl undertak- 
ing to guide us, which his knowledge of Arabic 
enabled him to do. We found our way into the 
bazaars, one part of which is well paved and clean, 
the other part frightfully dirty. The gutters run 
down the centre of the streets, so that it was very 
difficult to find resting-places for our feet. We 
picked our way, past strings of heavily laden camels, 
to the Turkish cemetery, with its grove of tall cy- 
presses, and then ascended the hill. What a view 
we had ! Below us the smokeless town, and the 
splendid vessels lying on the calm still sea ; on either 
side lofty purple mountains, with a slight wreath of 
mist just curling near their summits ; at the entrance 
to the bay several little islands, and a long expanse 
of flat coast along which the Ephesus train was 
puffing. 

u The ruined castle which crowns this hill," said 
Herr Karl, " was built by the Saracens out of the 
materials of the old Christian city." 

We climbed to the top of a tower, and meditated 
on Polycarp, who is supposed to be buried here. 
Violet thought that excavations might bring to light 
some records of the early Christian Church. 



58 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

We returned through the Jewish quarter, and as 
it was Saturday, the doorways were crowded with 
women in varied and rich costumes, who displayed 
great anxiety to have a peep at us. 

"How picturesque some of these coal-black 
Africans look in their snowy turbans ! " said 
Violet. 

" And the women 1" exclaimed Herr Horn. 
" What is the use of that white muslin over such a 
lump of ebony ?" 

After leaving Smyrna, the coast was for some 
time bordered by high mountains curiously indent- 
ed. It was in some places dotted with white piles 
of salt, manufactured from the sea water. The bay 
of Vulna affords good anchorage for European 
fleets, and at the promontory of Kara Burnu is a 
rock which resembles the snout of a bear, from 
which the place takes its name. Between Scio and 
the mainland the sea became calmer, and we found 
that Smyrna had contributed two additions to our 
party in the shape of a lively Holsteiner named 
Herr Ktthn, and a young French artist whom we 
shall call M. Pierre. 

Although next morning was rainy, we mounted 
on deck at six o'clock to have a peep at the island 
of Patmos. Behind us were some fantastically 



PATMOS. 59 

shaped islet hills, and on one side a mountainous 
mainland. 

" But where is Patmos ?" asked Edith. 

No one could tell, except Captain Rollo, who 
was enjoying a short slumber after his nocturnal 
vigils. Edith thought she should have to relin- 
quish the pleasure of beholding the scene of the 
Apostle's visions. But the Pasha, observing her 
perplexity, pointed to a map, and made signs that 
he wished to speak. Edith laid her finger on the 
desired name, and her view was immediately di- 
rected to a large island on the right, half covered 
with mist. It was very barren, but she thought 
she could distinguish a village on it. 

" I can scarcely realize," said Violet, " that this 
is the very scene on which the Apostle must 
have gazed when these wonderful visions were 
revealed to him. As we listen to the low mur- 
mur of these white-crested waves, let us think of 
Him whose yoice is as the sound of many 
waters." 

"Is it not possible," replied Agnes, "that the 
natural scenery may have blended with some of 
the visions, and that the scarlet woman sitting on 
the waters may have been seen by the Apostle 
from his elevated seat, really hovering over the 



60 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

surface of the sea ? What better stand-point could 
be imagined than that hill, or what better theatre 
than the encircling ocean, for the display of these 
magnificent visions ?" 

"These are perhaps idle fancies," said Violet. 
"Let us be thankful that we possess so precious 
a treasure as the Book of Revelation, and that on 
that lone isle was once seen the grandest sight in 
earth or heaven — the form of the Man Christ Jesus, 
in glory inexpressible." 

At two p. m. we reached Rhodes. Our first 
glimpse of the town was a long sandbank, with 
numberless whirling windmills. The harbour is 
only two reefs of jagged rocks, on one of which 
is a lighthouse. The houses look most miserable. 
The view all round is very grand. On one side is 
the mountainous mainland ; to the north are nume- 
rous islands, with their beetling cliffs; before us 
was a beautiful rainbow ; all encircled by the deep 
blue sea, on whose crystal waters a shoal of little 
boats danced and rocked in their efforts to reach 
the ship. Captain Rollo left immediately, to ob- 
tain " pratica." Violet wished to follow, but was 
assured by Signor Vincenza that the wind was 
rising, and the sea might become so stormy that 
it would be impossible to return. When Captain 
Rollo came on board, he said, 



RHODES. 61 

" Why were you not on shore ?" 

44 We were told it was a dangerous coast/' an- 
swered Edith. 

" Oh ! nonsense ! You have missed seeing some 
very interesting relics of the old knights." 

" If you had this island in St. George's Channel," 
said Herr Karl, " how many excursions would be 
made to it !" 

"To the bold belongs the world," said Herr 
Ktihn ; " none of you ever saw what I did this 
morning. A Jewish wedding! The bride was 
sitting in state, with no end of jewels about her. 
They asked us to come in and see." 

14 And if you really want to enjoy the East, 
you must cultivate Italian," said Signor Vincenza. 
"It is the acknowledged language of commerce 
here, and plays the part that French does in the 
West." 

" I have made two interesting acquaintances in 
the second class," said Herr Karl. "Here they 
come. The one in the long black-laced costume is 
a Hungarian, who wears his national dress. Poor 
fellow, he is far gone in consumption. The doctors 
have ordered him to Egypt ; and he expects to be 
married when he goes home. Pray, sir, will 
you show these ladies the portrait of your 
fiancee ?" 



62 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

The Hungarian, whose wasted figure and earnest 
blue eyes told that there was little hope of his re- 
covery, drew from his pocket a carte de visite, and 
said in German, with an accent something like 
what one of Scott's Highlanders might have used 
in speaking English, 

" Here she is. Is she not beautiful ?" 

" She has a beautiful growth of hair," answered 
Violet. " One might almost fancy she was of Bul- 
garian extraction." 

" Ah ! yes, she is beautiful, but she is better than 
she is beautiful. She is amiable, but she is better 
than she is amiable. She is accomplished, but she 
is better than she is accomplished. She plays the 
piano beautifully, but she is better than she plays 
the piano." 

" And she might not think it very beautiful in 
you to say so," said Violet. 

"Ah! let me hear that again," said his com- 
panion, a boy from Bucharest. "I want to 
learn it, for I am a young candidate for mar- 
riage." 

" Do you see that Moslem saying his prayers on 
deck ?" said Herr Karl. " He comes up here to 
find from the compass the direction of Mecca. 
Nothing in the world will disturb him." 

" Ah 1 yes, God is worshipped in many different 



GREEK PRIESTS. 63 

ways," said Mrs. Horn. " These Turkish women 
sometimes stroke my face to discover if I am made 
of flesh and blood, like themselves. But where 
is that strange crowd of Greek passengers going 
to?" 

" They are going to Jerusalem for Christmas," 
said Signor Vincenza. "The priests, you know, 
hold a grand bazaar there, for that is the real 
meaning of all their ceremonies. We poor sailors 
are not careless about religion. People say we 
don't think ; but it would be strange if we didn't 
think during the long silent nights. But I never 
yet saw a priest whom I could respect. When 
a monk comes on board, I say to myself, 
* Vincenza, that fellow is much worse than you.' 
And the Greek priests are very degraded. Look 
at that one there. See how he snaps at a morsel 
of bread as he walks along ! Now, I am not fond 
of ceremony, but yet I think a man who claims 
respect from others, should maintain some decency 
in his manners. And how abominably dirty 
he is !" 

" Like priest, like people," said Edith. " I do 
wonder what some of our starched-up Anglican 
clergymen would say were that man to address 
them as brother. You know one party in the 
Church of England wishes to be united to the 



64 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Greeks. But I suppose that Apostolic Succession, 
like charity, covers a multitude of sins." 

"I don't think you should trust to priests to 
learn the truth," said Violet. " You should study 
the Bible for yourselves." 

"The Bible is mere wind," said Herr Karl. 

" Yes, that it is," said Mr. Horn. " To be sure 
we learnt all about it when we were children, but 
no one in Saxony believes it now." 

* Then why are you going to Jerusalem ?" asked 
Edith. 

" Oh, Jerusalem is a great place ! Just think 
how our friends will look at us when we say we 
have been to Jerusalem." 

" But I am sorry to hear you speak so of the 
Bible," said Violet. " If you take it away, what 
else can you give us in its place ?" 

" Well, that is quite true," said Mr. Horn. " My 
dear Herr Karl, I have observed that our reason- 
ings make us very unhappy. We talk and talk and 
talk, until everything is reasoned away, and nothing 
lies before us but darkness. It seems to me that 
if we had more faith, we could enjoy life much bet- 
ter. But what does our Hungarian friend say 
about it ?" 

14 1 do not believe anything," said the Hungarian. 

" Have you read the Bible ?" asked Violet. 



CHRISTIANS. 65 

"Oh, yes! I have it in several languages. 
I always carry an English Bible about with 
me. 

Violet was reflecting on what she should answer, 
when the Doctor's little daughter looked up and 
said, 

" But, sir, how can you read it when you don't 
know a word of English ? I think it is time for 
you to go to bed." 

" My difficulty is this," said the Greek doctor. 
" The Bible contains excellent moral lessons, but 
what effect have these lessons had on those who 
profess religion? Christians seem to me to hate 
most bitterly any one who does not agree with 
them on every point. Whoever knew a person 
whose life corresponded to the model exhibited by 
Christ?" 

" I think I have known some," said Agnes. 

" And if Christians have not shown sufficient love 
to their fellow-men," said Edith, "it is unfair to 
cast on religion the reproach of their shortcomings. 
If a man does not become perfect by embracing 
Christianity, might he not have been worse without 
its restraining influence ? We must judge by the 
moral power it has exercised over the world in 
general." 

" I will tell you what it is," said Violet. " You 

F 



66 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

would all be convinced were the Church only to 
endeavour earnestly to come up to the standard set 
before us by our Lord and Master. But worldly 
men have become pastors from motives of covet- 
ousness; and from the earliest times an unholy 
alliance with the temporal powers has placed temp- 
tations in the way even of those who were truly 
good. Let the Churches everywhere be set free 
from worldly control, let their pastors cast aside 
every selfish consideration, let every Christian do 
what he can for the happiness of his fellow-men, 
and Christianity will soon achieve the conquests to 
which, as a Divine revelation, she is entitled." 

" Yes," answered the Doctor. "Those who suc- 
ceeded the Apostles werq more anxious to make 
proselytes than real converts. To this may be 
traced the diversity of worship in the Greek and 
Latin communions. These two forms have arisen 
from the mingling in the West of the old Roman 
idolatry, and in the East of the Greek superstitions, 
with Christianity." 

" You ought to lecture this young man," said 
Mrs. Horn. " He is only sixteen years of age, but 
he has such an unconquerable desire to see the 
world that he has run away from Bucharest with a 
little money he had in the bank. He is an only 



A RUNAWAY, 67 

son, his mother is a widow, and she has no 
idea where he is. He could only go in the 
third class, but the mate has kindly given him a 
share of his cabin. Where do you intend going, 
Hugo ? " 

"Oh! I must see everything. I will go to Cairo, 
to Jerusalem. If my money runs short, I will work 
my way home. Do tell me what your guide-books 
say about this country." 

" But are you not going to write to your mo- 
ther r 

" No ; what's the use ? Time enough when she 
sees me again." 

" But she will think you are dead." 

"No fear of that! She knows me too 
well." 

" Have you observed that young man who came 
in at Smyrna ?" said Mrs. Horn. " I wonder what 
nation he belongs to, or what language he speaks. 
He has never said a word to anybody since he came 
on board." 

" Perhaps he is an Englishman," said Edith. 

" Oh, no ! I am sure not," answered Herr Karl ; 
" that is not an English type of face." 

u Perhaps he is dumb," said Edith. 

" He occupies the same cabin as I do," said Herr 

f2 



68 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Kiihn. " He has only once asked me a simple ques- 
tion. I shall certainly not demean myself by try- 
ing to break through his reserve." 



69 



CHAPTER V. 



CYPRUS TO ALEXANDRIA. 



NEXT morning we were lying quietly at anchor 
off the town of Larnaca, in the island of Cy- 
prus. Our Northern skies are certainly more fa- 
vourable to the beauties of nature, for such barren 
hills we never before beheld. We went on shore 
in a small boat, the Doctor carrying little Augusta, 
and were lifted bodily on to a small pier. 

" I will wait here with my child," said the Doc- 
tor, " while you walk abouPthe^town. You c&n 
meet me in one of those rude caf<6s, and have a 
glass of sweet Commendaria wine." 

" How many Turks there are !" said Mrs. 
Horn. "They seem to have nothing to do but 
smoke and stare at us. Are there no women 
here?" 

"They are all indoors," said Herr Karl. 



70 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" I never saw a town like this !" exclaimed 
Agnes. "Why, the scenery is quite tropical! 
And what a white reflection from everything !" 

We passed along tortuous streets, where not 
a living creature was moving, between what we 
supposed to be white-limed garden walls. 

" These are houses," said Herr Karl. 

"No, it is impossible. Where are the win- 
dows ?" 

"Come into this garden of prickly pear, and 
you will see. That little flat-roofed shed at 
the corner next the street is where the people 
live." 

" Do you think we can see the inside ?" asked 
Herr Kiihn. 

" I do not know. You can try." 

"Don't come any further," said Mrs. Horn. 
" Miss Violet and I have quite alarmed the lady, 
who has jumped out of bed." 

"Stay," said Edith, "she has put on her veil, 
and is coming out to speak. She wants us to 
come in. Oh! what a crowd of women live 
here !" 

" Here is something stranger," said Herr Ktihn, 
" A number of camels, with baggage saddles, lying 
down in the dust. Would you like to mount 
one ?" 



A CAMEL BIDE. 7 1 

" Oh ! yes, I should," said Violet. 

And before we were aware, he had assisted her 
to mount on the top of the ungainly animal, which 
rose with a growl, stretched out its long neck, and 
began striding majestically along. Violet kept a 
steady seat, and looked down with supreme con- 
tempt on everything, beneath her. 

" That one has courage," said Mrs. Horn. 

"To the bold belongs the world," said Herr 
Kiihn. 

Agnes and Edith followed, convulsed with 
laughter. Hundreds of Greek women rushed out 
to witness the strange spectacle, which doubtless 
afforded food for a month to the Larnaca gos- 
sips, even if it was not inscribed on the town's 
annals. 

After partaking of some luscious wine in the 
cafiS, Violet tried to persuade the company to join 
her in a camel ride. 

"I was never on horseback," said Mrs. Horn; 
" but I do not like that you should beat me/' 

" Here are some camels," said Herr Karl. " I 
will engage them, and insist on the owner giving 
you gentle animals. Now, make that one kneel, 
and Miss Violet will mount. Mrs. Horn, it is your 
turn. They are all tied together ; and Miss Violet 
will lead the way. Now, Miss Edith, you are quite 



72 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

comfortable. Your sister prefers walking. Herr 
Kiihn, what are you doing ?" 

Herr Ktthn did not see why he should make the 
camel kneel. He vaulted on the saddle,' the saddle 
turned right round, and to save himself from fall- 
ing, he sprang on to its neck, whilst its roars filled 
every one with alarm. He then sat with his face 
to its tail, that he might not turn his back to the 
ladies, if called on to go first. 

" Oh ! " said Agnes, " I think I should die with 
laughing, if I saw much of Herr Kiihn." 

As soon as the camels began to move, Edith fell 
off. Mrs. Horn endured the swinging motion for a 
few minutes, and then said, 

" Oh ! please do not go so fast !" 

" I can't help it," said Violet. " I don't know 
how to stop my camel." 

Violet soon met an old sheikh. 

" D'oii venez-vous ? " said he. 

" Je viens d'Angleterre, monsieur." 

" Et oh allez-vous ? " 

" Je vais en Egypte, et c'est pourquoi je m'excerce 
sur le chameau." 

" Ah 1 vous y trouverez de meilleurs chameaux 
que ceux-ci ! Les selles sont aussi meilleures." 

Some of the houses are much handsomer than 
the one we first visited. Their courts are paved 



EVENING AMUSEMENT. 73 

with mosaic, surrounded by pillared porticoes, and 
shaded by a single splendid acacia ; or perhaps the 
delicate rose blossoms of the oleander adorn the 
doorways. 

90 

In the evening, every one was in high spirits. 
Mrs. Horn proposed a game at Black Peter, which 
was accordingly played, the Turks taking a deep 
interest. Then Edith tied together the wrists of 
Mrs. Horn and Herr Karl in a love-knot ; and also 
the steward and stewardess. The two beys earnestly 
requested her to allow them also the opportunity of 
solving this simple enigma. Herr Kiihn produced 
his album. 

" Is that portrait your fiancee ? n 

" I shall not tell you. I should like to write a 
Turkish love-letter. That young bey might assist 
me." 

He approached the table where the bey was 
reading. 

"I can't make him understand, steward — will 
you translate ? I want him to write me a love- 
letter, in Turkish, to these ladies." 

" This gentleman," translated the steward, " wants 
you to write a love-letter for him to a Turkish lady 
in Stamboul." 

A cloud gathered over the young man's face. 
In an instant it was replaced by an affable smile. 



74 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

He took a paper, wrote a few lines, and handed 
them to Herr Kiihn. 

" Thank you very much, steward. Tell him I 
am so much impressed by his courtesy that, when 
he requires a love-letter, I shall be happy to write 
it for him in English, French, Italian, or German. 
Ah ! I have got a treasure! To the bold belongs 
the world !" 

Next morning we were at Beyrout. It is a 
clean-looking, well-built town, situated in a mag- 
nificent bay. The lofty range of Lebanon on one 
side was just tipped with cloud and snow, and 
looked exceedingly majestic. How strange the 
sensation produced by gazing for the first time on 
a biblical mountain ! The snow-veiled ridges of the 
Alps may reveal scenes of profounder sublimity, 
but the countless glories of Lebanon thrill the soul 
with awe when we realize their connection with 
the early history of our religion. 

Herr Kiihn proposed a ride into the interior, 
and went on shore at break of day to engage 
horses. We had some talk with the stewardess 
about the arrangements of the vessel. 

" The captain is very angry with Mr. and Mrs. 
Horn," said she. " They have taken out their 
tickets in an unusual way. They paid their fare 
so as not to include food, and they are charged 



ECCENTRIC TRAVELLERS. 75 

extra for every meal they take. By this they 
hoped to save themselves something in case of sea- 
sickness ; but if everyone did likewise, how should 
we ever get on ? And they find fault with every- 
thing at table." 

" Yes, I have noticed Mrs. Horn do that," said 
Agnes ; " and it gives me a disrelish for whatever 
is set before us. But I didn't know people could 
arrange that way. Only a German could have 
carried it out. It cannot save them much, for they 
have been present at every meal." 

" And the steward says he will manage to make 
their bill longer than the usual fare would have 
been. Only last night they sent to ask the captain 
if he would kindly oil the chains attached to the 
helm, as thev did not like the noise." 

" How ridiculous !" 

" I remember once, when a lady was very sea- 
sick, and we were going rapidly on the open sea, 
she sent to beg the captain to stop the vessel. He 
answered that such a proceeding would only make 
matters worse. But Mrs. Horn and Miss Violet 
are already in the little boat." 

"I don't think I'll go," said Agnes. "I am 
sure of a good breakfast on board, and not so sure 
of one that Mrs. Horn orders." 

"I'll stay with you," said Edith. "Violet 



76 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

will only exhaust her strength on a wretched 
saddle:' 

On entering the saloon, we were surprised to 
find M. Pierre engaged in an animated conversa- 
tion. 

" I am so glad these Turkish beys are gone," 
said he. "And we are also rid of that young 
German, Herr Kiihn. He was guilty of a want of 
tact towards me when we first met, so I resolved 
not to open my lips as long as he was on board. 
And last night I witnessed him say something to 
the young bey, for which many a Turk would 
have poniarded him." 

" The young bey showed himself quite a gentle- 
man," said the captain. " But I am sure what he 
wrote was not a love-letter. We ought to respect 
the religion and the feelings of others, however 
silly we may think them. The Turks are very 
sensitive on some points; but though this may 
appear to us weak, it is no reason why we should 
insult them. I recollect getting into a difficulty 
at this very Beyrout, shortly after I entered the 
service. I was then inexperienced, and having a 
great many passengers, I had part of the saloon 
curtained off for the benefit of a pasha's harem. 
Other ladies were grumbling, so I lifted the corner 
of the curtain, to suggest an alteration. One of 



CONVERSATION. 77 

the Turks drew his sword, and my officers rushed 
to the rescue. Then the Austrian Consul came on 
board. ' Rollo, what have you been doing ?' said 
he. ' I'm sure I don't know,' said I. 4 Well, the 
authorities have asked me to detain the vessel and 
have you punished. I'll try and make them under- 
stand that you did not mean to give offence ; but 
be careful for the future.' Now, so many young 
men come out with high ideas of their own clever- 
ness, and want to play a practical joke at the 
Moslem's expense. But they don't know what 
danger they may be running into; and they get 
wiser by experience. Herr Kuhn will have learnt 
better in a week or two." 

"What do you think of the Government of 
Turkey ? " asked Agnes. 

" Every nation has the Government it deserves. 
It's all nonsense to talk of the injustice of one race 
ruling over another. Some people are much the 
better of being ruled. Now, on the coasts of the 
Adriatic, you will see a woman doing all the hard 
work on her little plot of ground. She comes 
home and prepares supper, and then her idle hus- 
band beats her if it isn't right. And he ? He has 
been strutting about like a peacock, in his uniform, 
and thinks it beneath the dignity of a soldier to do 
anything for himself. Now, I say these men ought 



78 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

to have some one over them who would make 
them work. It is the active and industrious who 
have the right to rule." 

" We have been told that the English have fail- 
ed as colonisers," said Agnes — " that they have 
not sufficient sympathy with the subject races to 
Anglicise them. The Latins claim the honour of 
being the great social reformers." 

" And 3'our informant was much mistaken," said 
M. Pierre. " The French cannot colonize at all. 
Look at Algiers. It is under military rule, and a 
civilian can't get on there. Those who are not con- 
nected with the army just go away in disgust." 

4i And look at the Ionian Islands," said Captain 
Rollo. " I never saw such a change on any place 
as on Corfu since the English left. The beautiful 
roads have all gone into disrepair. I remember 
when the Commissioner came out to decide the 
matter. That was a man ! So conscientious and 
painstaking in examining." 

" What was his name ?" 

" I think it was Gladstone. Well, I had the 
honour of bringing some of the Signor deputies 
from Corfu to Athens after the question was settled. 
How disgracefully they behaved ! They laughed, 
they sang, they drank, and made speeches. You 
would have thought, to hear them, that the English 



CONVERSATION WITH FELLOW-PASSENGERS. 79 

were a nation of brutes. And now, if they could 
only be brought back by pulling the telegraph 
wires, the Ionians would pull with might and 
main." 

" But it is disgraceful that the English keep Gib- 
raltar," said the Doctor. " It is against the "law of 
nationalities." 

" I do not agree with you," said Edith. " Gib- 
raltar is almost an island, and the strip of sand 
which connects it with the Spanish mainland might 
easily be cut through. Besides, it is only natural 
that if part of our house is on one continent, and 
part on another, we should unite them by a bridge. 
Gibraltar, Malta, and Aden are the piers of that 
bridge. But do you think Italy deserves to be 
free ?" 

" I have lived long in Italy," said M. Pierre. " I 
am glad the Italians are free, though I don't think 
they deserve it. I am a Republican, a socialist, if 
you wish, yet I think Garibaldi has done harm by 
railing so much against the Pope." 

" Is the Pope infallible ?" 

" Not exactly. But the Catholic religion teaches 
the fear of God, and the Italians have become much 
more degraded without this restraint. Any religion 
was better than none at all." 

u But here is a note from Violet," said Edith. 



80 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" She wants us to come ashore to dinner, if the Cap- 
tain approves." 

" Oh ! yes, you had better go, and I will send 
the stewardess with you." 

Beyrout is even more Oriental in its character 
than Cyprus. Palm trees and prickly pear flourish 
in great luxuriance. The flat-roofed houses are 
mostly of stone, of a queer block-like shape. As 
we approached the quay, we passed by a ruined 
castle built on some projecting rocks, against which 
the waves dashed with a clap like thunder. We 
landed, and were immediately surrounded by men 
whose handsome faces and picturesque costumes 
formed a perfect study. Even a shade of black 
rather improves the complexion of a stalwart Arab. 
Amelia thought the display of Turkish eatables in 
the bazaars very disgusting. The women's veils 
were quite different from those at Constantinople. 
A great white sheet covered the whole person, and 
the face was shrouded in a coarse bit of parti- 
coloured muslin. 

A few yards out of the town we met Mr. and 
Mrs. Horn on foot. 

" I am dead tired," said Mr. Horn, sinking ex- 
hausted on a heap of dust. " This country is not 
worth coming to see — it is nothing but sand — sand 
in your eyes, sand in your teeth." 



VIOLENT SCAMPER. 81 

" And how have you got on, Mrs. Horn ?" 

" Oh I I went on quietly enough as long as they 
rode slowly, but as soon as they began to gallop I 
came rolling down." 

" And I put her up again, but she came off a 
second time, and I couldn't help laughing to see 
her, though I'm all aching." 

" But where are Violet and the others ?" asked 
Edith: 

" Far away ! We couldn't follow them. But, I 
declare, here is Herr Kiihn I" 

" That villain has given me a bad saddle. The 
girth broke, and I'm just mad. And after qjl my 
trouble, they didn't send back one of the guides to 
help me." 

We went to Constantine Baio's Hotel, and Herr 
Kiihn threw himself down on the sofa in a 
sulk. After several hours, we heard the tramp of 
horses' feet. Violet returned, with the rest of the 
party. 

" Where have you been ?" 

"Oh! I don't know — a great way among the 
mountains. We didn't know what had become of 
Herr Kiihn — he fell whilst riding at full speed 
amongst some trees. He got on again, and I sup- 
pose must have fallen a second time, for he is very 

G 



82 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

reckless. Syrian roads are not suited for such 
violent scampers." 

"And I thought he had turned to look after 
Mrs. Horn, else I should have sent him a guide," 
said Herr Karl. " But see what a beautiful dinner 
we are to have! This vin ordinaire tastes like 
logwood and vinegar. Waiter, give us a bottle of 
Lebanon wine." 

" Indeed," said Herr Horn, who was trembling 
for his purse, " I think the vin ordinaire delicious. 
But did any one ever see such bananas ?" 

u You like that wine ?" said Herr Kiihn. " Waiter, 
give ys another bottle." 

" Oh !" said Mr. Horn, " what bad taste you all 
have ! But now we must go to the roof of the 
house. The view is so lovely, and the air so pure, 
that, were it not for to-day's experience of the 
horse and the sand, I should never wish to go 
home." 

" Indeed," said Herr Karl, "you must take great 
care of your eyes." 

" Yes, I shall. I'll go through the desert with 
my eyes shut, and get the dragoman to lead 
me — so." 

"Do you think our hats are a good protec- 
tion from the sun?" asked Agnes of Herr 
Karl. 



ARAB BOATMEN* 83 

"No, a light felt hat is the thing. If with a 
high crown, so much the better — peaked, like the 
Tyrolese, would be best of all. And the shop- 
keepers of Alexandria will wind plenty of white 
muslin round it for you." 

14 Hugo and I are going to have another peep 
at the bazaars. Herr Karl, you can send back the 
same boat for us, as you have arranged about the 
price," said Mr. Horn. 

A violent quarrel took place among the boat- 
men on account of our having got, into the wrong 
boat. The sea was very rough, and Mrs. Horn was 
in mortal terror. 

" Oh ! my husband ! He will never get back to 
the steamer ! Those waves ! — those wild men ! — 
and only that boy to take care of him! Herr 
Karl, whatever shall I do ?" 

" Don't be alarmed," said Herr Karl. u Your 
husband is quite safe." 

After we got on board, an Arab boatman came 
begging for more money. Herr Karl was inex- 
orable, and the poor man came peering round the 
saloon windows. 

" Don't let Miss Violet know," said Herr Karl ; 
" she will give it at once. But here is Mr. Horn." 

u Oh! wife, why did you leave me? I have 
been in terror of death ! These rascally boatmen 

g2 



84 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

stopped half way, and wouldn't row further till we 
had put down a franc on the seat, and promised to 
give them another franc when we reached the 
ship, though we had given them two francs to 
begin with. And I had to do it, for a great black 
giant was standing over me. But what is that 
savage yelling for ?" 

" I've played him out," said Hugo. " When he 
turned to help you in, I seized the franc that you 
had put down on the seat, and put it into his 
hand. He has just found out the trick. So we 
have paid only three francs instead of four." 

"That was a master-stroke," said Mr. Horn, dis- 
appearing to his cabin. 

" I think that is very wrong," said Captain Rollo. 
"The next travellers will suffer for it. These 
fellows are always on the watch to cheat you ; 
and some of their devices are very unjustifiable. 
But a Christian and an educated man should never 
condescend to cheat them. When a gentleman 
has given his word, under whatever circumstances, 
nothing should tempt him to break it." 

"And Mr. Horn is wealthv" said M. Pierre. 
" Now, I am not rich, but whenever I wish to go 
ashore alone, I say to myself, ' It will cost you a 
franc, and a franc to come back.' When I was 
being rowed from the quay at Varna to the 






COAST OF TYKE. 85 

steamer, it was a very rough night, and I had 
resolved to give the boatmen ten francs amongst 
them. But they demanded a napoleon. I had 
not my arms beside me, so I said to the man, 
4 Will you hand me over that railway-rug?' He 
was stupid enough to do so. My pistols were in 
it. I took them out, and said, i See, T intended to 
give you ten francs, but since you have been so 
impudent, here are five.' And they were glad 
enough to take it." 

Next morning we were passing along the coast 
of Tyre. We could only see a stretch of low sand- 
hills, and the spot where once stood the merchant 
city, distinguished by a few rude huts on the verge 
of a barren slope. A little further south the hills 
gradually sink on to a wide plain, where the 
remains of an aqueduct are visible, and on which 
have been fought some of the bloodiest battles the 
world has seen. At its southern extremity stands 
the fortified town of St. Jean d'Acre, the most 
picturesque object of the desolate landscape. We 
stopped in a bay which takes its name from the 
insignificant village of Caifa. It is at the foot of a 
low range of hills, seemingly composed of sand, 
and scantily overgrown with dwarf shrubs. This 
range extends as for as a round promontory which 
bears khe name of Carmel, and is in fact the lowest 



86 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

offshoot of that mountain. Great were the excla- 
mations of disappointment. But six months later 
some of us learnt better to appreciate the excel- 
lencies of that goodly hill. 

We signalled to the mainland for a boat, but 
none came. After dark M. Pierre and a Jesuit 
priest, in civilian clothes, went ashore to visit the 
convent. Several monks had come in at Beyrout. 
Mrs. Horn went up to one of them. 

" Do you get good eating at Jerusalem ?" said 
she. 

" Very good," replied he ; " you will be very 
comfortable at the convent." 

" Don't you think," said Mr. Horn, " my wife 
and I might ride in two baskets slung over a 
mule ? We could pop down our heads if we saw a 
robber coming ; and Hugo could sit on the top 
with a pistol ready." 

What a noise and chattering greeted us on 
awaking next day ! Above all, the clear voice of 
Signor Vincenza commanding. We were before 
the town of Jaffa, and two separate cargoes of 
pilgrims were being shipped off. Peeping from 
our cabin window, we could see a Greek priest 
and a Franciscan monk posted on either side of the 
gangway, each superintending the movements of 
his flock. Jaffa is a compact pile of houses planted 



X 



\ 



\ 



JAFFA. 87 

on a stretch of sand. It is surrounded by walls, 
and the remains of the old harbour, projecting into 
the water like half-sunken rocks, make landing 
dangerous in rough weather. We, however, had 
a perfect calm. Our four stalwart Arab rowers 
tried to race who should get in first, their songs 
and wild cries sounding very romantic as they 
steered us with practised skill between two formid- 
able-looking breakers. But, oh ! the landing ! 
Stepping on to the quay over the bended back of 
an Arab, we climbed over I don't know how many 
dirty sacks, rubbed against I don't know how many 
dirty asses and still dirtier men, clambered over 
muddy stones past the mouth of a freshly-opened 
drain, and were thankful to find ourselves in the 
bazaars, such as they are. The costumes of the 
people, and the people themselves, had a different 
stamp from anything we had yet seen. 

" How handsome all the men are ! " said 
Agnes. 

" Yes," answered the Doctor. .'"In Egypt you 
will see some who are exactly like bronze statues. 
But where is Herr Karl ?" 

" Oh ! he went on shore very early, to get 
Mr. and Mrs. Horn, the Hungarian, and Hugo into 
the convent. They are to ride to Ramleh to-night, 
and to Jerusalem to-morrow." 



• 



/ 



s 



/ 



88 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" How tired they will be ! Mrs. Horn never 
was on horseback till she was at Beyrout." 

" Hugo was very anxious to be our dragoman," 
said Edith. 

" Oh ! you would soon have been robbed under 
his care." 

" Or we should have had to sit down on thfe 
road, while he squabbled about some piastres." 

" How narrow the streets are ! But the houses 
seem to be strongly built. Little changed, they 
say, since Jewish times." 

" This is the road to Jerusalem. It is said that 
when the Sultan was in Paris the Empress re- 
quested him to have it made for the benefit of 
pilgrims. All the people who live along it have % 
been taxed twenty-five francs a head to defray the 
expense, and they reap no benefit." 

" I think that is wrong," said Edith. " The pil- 
grims ought rather to pay toll." 

" And it is so bad in some places that sometimes 
the people have to get out and help to draw the 
carriage. But only one wheeled vehicle exists in 
Jaffa. Mrs. Horn was anxious to get it, but it is 
now at Jerusalem." 

" Will you come into this orange-garden ? We 
will spread a mat on the grass, and squat like 
the Arabs. Take some of these sweet lemons. 



A YOUNG TRAVELLER. 89 

M. Pierre, did you ever see anything so romantic ?" 

" Oh I how these Arabs drink water ! " said 
Violet. " They pour it straight down their throats 
without swallowing it. I must learn how to do 
it, for it is well to know the customs of the 
country." 

"You must hold the jar pretty high," said M. 
Pierre. "Miss Agnes has spilt it all over her 
dress. Ah ! I fear we are not very apt learners." 

" Now we may go and see the splendid view of 
the sea from the roof of the Greek monastery," said 
the Doctor. " A pretty little English gun-boat has 
just appeared." 

On returning to the steamer, we found Herr 
Karl conversing with a young Englishman whose 
boyish look and gentle manners showed that he 
had but lately left home. 

" I have come without a companion from 
Damascus to Jerusalem," he said. " For the 
last few weeks I have spoken with nobody. 
My dragoman's stock of English was soon ex- 
hausted, and I am glad to have the solitary jour- 
ney over." 

" To-morrow is Sunday, and we will be at Port 
Said," said the Doctor. 

" Is there a church there ?" asked Violet. 

" I think not. Do you always go to church on 



90 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Sunday? There is nothing in the Bible to tell 
you that. Where do you take it from ?" 

"The promise of our Saviour," said Edith. 
"'Where two or three are gathered together 
in My name, there am I in the midst of 
them.' I do not know the exact words in 
German." 

"Repeat it in Italian. I never read that. In 
what part of the Bible is it ? I'll get my Greek 
bible, you get your English one, and we'll com- 
pare notes." 

Violet, Agnes, Edith, and the young Englishman 
all began to search. 

"Now, I admire that," said M. Pierre. "I. 
respect the English greatly for carrying their 
Bibles about with them. I must study mine 
better." ' 

"All who go to Egypt," said the Doctor, "lose 
the little faith they have." 

"Perhaps if they have only a Utile faith," said 
Violet. 

" How could Palestine be a chosen land ? Its 
shores are much too barren. You will observe 
also how all Egypt depends on the Nile for suste- 
nance. Now, if all the water of that river were 
turned into blood, they and their cattle must have 
perished." 



EGYPT. 9 1 

" But we are not told how long the plague 
lasted," said Violet. " Camels and asses can exist 
without water for seven days." 

"Well, I should just like to hear your opinion 
in a year from this time." 

" Is Egypt well governed ?" asked Agnes. 

" It was, under Said Pasha. The present Vice- 
roy is a merchant, whose aim is to make money. 
He has forced some of the fellahs to sell him their 
land, that he might re-sell it at a higher price. 
European merchants grumble very much, because, 
when his goods are to be conveyed by railway, 
other traffic must wait. But Egypt is a country 
where many strangers come to make money, and 
they seldom expend anything on the natives The 
land has been considered as belonging to the 
Government since the days of Joseph." 

"Is it fertile?" asked Edith. 

" The richest soil in the world. The lava dust 
of the two Sicilies comes second to it. The waters 
of the Nile leave behind them a thick deposit of 
lime, so that the fields need no manure. Here you 
may plant corn, cotton, sugar-cane, anything you 
please, and it grows without much care to a bounti- 
ful harvest." 

" How strange that the inhabitants should be so 
badly off!" 



92 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" Mehemet Ali established schools and hospitals. 
Ismail Pasha does not see the need of them." 

" He is quite right," said Herr Karl. " If the 
lower classes were educated, they would be above 
doing menial work." 

" Indeed ! I think they would do it better," said 
Violet. 

" Nonsense ! Some members of society must be 
kept down for the benefit of others. For instance, 
how would you like to have such work imposed on 

you?" 

" I should be happy to do anything, if it were 
necessary. Our Saviour's example teaches us that 
work is honourable. I think no occupation would 
make people despised if society were rightly con- 
stituted." 

" Well," said Signor Vincenza, " since you ladies 
like to see everything, I wish you would visit my 
country. It would be a very nice trip to take the 
Austrian Company's indirect boat from Corfu to 
Trieste. It stops at Cattaro, Ragusa, and all the 
towns of Dalmatia, where the scenery is very 
grand." 

"I am afraid you praise it," said Agnes, "for 
the same reason that Mrs. Horn praised Saxon 
Switzerland. She said it was more beautiful than 
the real Switzerland." 



PORT 8 AID. 93 

" Oh, no ! Many Englishmen have made the 
voyage, and are of my opinion." 

Next morning we found ourselves in the Suez 
Canal. Port Said seems to have been run up in 
haste on the sand. Its wooden houses are mostly 
detached. You feel at once that you are in a 
French colony. The British Consul has managed 
to construct one of the most elaborate and beauti- 
fully-kept gardens we have ever seen. Walls of 
shells and corals arranged in mosaic, ornamental 
fountains, English strawberry beds, English roses 
amongst African plants, make quite a little oasis 
in the desert. We walked along the narrow 
strip of land which separates the lake from the sea. 
In the centre of the lake stands a cemetery, con- 
nected with the shore by an elevated roadway. We 
had the curiosity to inspect an Arab village. Some 
of the huts were of brick thinly limed over ; some 
wooden, and some nondescript constructions of rush 
matting stretched on sticks. They were window- 
less, chimneyless, and bedless. The Arabs sleep on 
the sand, and want no better couch in this dry cli- 
mate. Herr Karl assured us they were palaces to 
those in the neighbourhood of Cairo. 



94 



CHAPTER VI. 



ALEXANDRIA TO ASOUAN. 

BETWEEN Port Said and Alexandria we had 
stormy weather. On entering the harbour 
we witnessed a sailor's funeral-party leaving an 
English transport ship. It consisted of two small 
boats with about a dozen rowers in each. Very 
solemnly and slowly they dipped their oars as they 
pursued their silent way over the heaving waters. 
It was a very impressive sight. 

The Commissionaire of the Peninsular and Ori- 
ental Hotel saved us all trouble in landing. Alex- 
andria seemed well-built after the places we had 
been in. It has some wide streets, and one hand- 
some square planted with trees. 

Scarcely had we established ourselves in comfort, 
when we were beset by dragomans, one of whom 
the landlord introduced as " the best in the East." 



ENGAGING A DRAGOMAN. 95 

How agreeably we were surprised to see a smart 
European after so many uncouth Arabs ! 

" We do not intend taking a dragoman for the 
Nile, as we shall go in the steamer to Asouan," said 
Violet ; " nor shall we engage one for Syria till we 
have seen the Consul at Cairo. But what are your 
terms ?" 

We thought them rather high. 

" But, Violet," said Agnes, " it seems to me 
that it would be a great advantage for us to secure 
this one. And as we are particularly anxious to 
have no addition to our party, and he might easily 
get a larger one, his terms may not be too 
much." 

" And though the journey be a costly one," said 
Edith, " it will doubtless repay us for the expense. 
Think how much more some families expend every 
season on balls and theatres. Besides, we should 
not grudge something extra for the sake of our 
health, which might be seriously injured were we 
travelling with any one whose time was limited, 
and have to pay more in the end for doctors' 
bills." 

" Then call him again," said Violet ; " and as he 
is willing to be engaged as valet de place whilst we 
are in Alexandria, we may as well try him first 
in that capacity." 



96 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" My father is at Cairo," said Giacomo Certezza, 
for such was the name of this candidate for our 
confidence. "You may have him, should I be 
engaged before you decide. You will find his 
name in your guide-book." 

" You are surely not an Arab ?" 

" No ; we are from Malta. Our native language 
is very like the Arabic; though we also speak 
Italian." 

" Do you think these saddles will do for donkeys 
as well as horses ?" 

" Yes, I am sure they will." 

The mosquito curtains proved an effectual pro- 
tection during the night. Next day we took a 
drive to see Cleopatra's Needle. This is a lofty 
obelisk of red granite, seventy feet high, of one 
solid block, covered with partly-defaced hierogly- 
phics, and situated in a stone-cutter's yard. Pom- 
pey's Pillar is a column ninety-eight feet high, 
equally remarkable for the mechanical skill dis- 
played by those who placed it where it stands. 

" How shall we make people at home compre- 
hend how wonderful this is ?" said Violet. 

"Oh!" answered Agnes, "just tell them to 
look at the Observatory on Campden Hill, and 
fancy a column of similar height all in one 
piece. 



viceroy's palace. 97 

" And see," said Edith, " how many fragments of 
sphinxes are strewn around. They were so highly 
prized and so laboriously graven by the ancients, 
and are treated with such contempt by the 
moderns." 

A fearful spout of rain fell next night. It effect- 
ually silenced the dogs ; but the Arab night- watch- 
ers disturbed our slumbers greatly. Next day we 
visited the Viceroy's palace, where a ball had been 
given a few days before. The beautiful inlaid 
floors seemed much spoiled, and would require to 
be polished anew after every entertainment. There 
was no limit to the luxuriance of decorations and 
furniture; but not one work of art was visible, 
save the portraits of the Viceroys. What a con- 
trast to the Fest-saal-bau, at Munich. 

The catacombs are on the sea-shore, and though 
not worth visiting in themselves, the sea-waves 
breaking against some of the old ruins near them 
have a most sublime effect. 

u Sand hath filled up the palaces of old, 
Sea-weed o'ergrown the halls of revelry.** 

Violet was unfortunate enough to have her 
watch and chain stolen the very first day we 
were in Alexandria. As there is no police, the 
search for them was entirely useless. 

Giacomo was to have gone with us to Cairo, 

H 



98 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

but the morning we were to leave, a card was 
handed to him, with the message that an American 
family wished to see him. He remained behind 
in attendance on them, but saw us into the train, 
and telegraphed to his father to meet us at the 
Cairo station. 

For a long way the railway ran by the shore 
of Lake Mareotis ; after which the country became 
more fertile, although as flat as a table. It was 
strange to see the operations of husbandry going 
on in December. The ground is divided, as in 
Ireland, into small patches, in some of which we 
could see the " braird" appearing; others were 
covered with a velvety green carpet ; others were 
being lightly ploughed by oxen ; whilst here and 
there might be seen a cow or an ass feeding. 
There are no fences, so the owners must trust 
to the sagacity of their animals not to trans- 
gress. 

A few palm-trees diversified the landscape, and 
occasionally a camel trudged slowly along, with a 
mountain of sugar-canes dangling over its back. 
The towns we passed were all of the Arab order 
of architecture, to comprehend which, imagine a 
peat rick, in two stories, suddenly transformed 
into dried mud, with here and there a small 
attempt at variety by some single dwellings being 



CAIRO. 99 

circular. Most are, however, low huts, chimney- 
less and windowless — scarcely to be distinguished 
from dustheaps. The sacred city of Tanta, which 
we passed on the road, is * the only one with any 
pretensions to civilization. 

The landscape as we approached Cairo became 
pleasantly studded with spreading locust-trees. We 
found Certezza phre waiting for us at the station. 
Seldom have we seen a more handsome man. 
Though not exactly of the size of Anak, he might 
have sat for a portrait of bluff King Hal, after 
domestic worries had tinged that monarch's hair 
with silver. His face wore a smile which was 
meant to express the most artless sincerity; and 
each word as it fell from his lips seemed coated 
with sugar. He transferred us into an open car 
with a canopy over it; and whilst our luggage 
was being deposited in a cart, we opened our 
eyes in astonishment at the queer sights around. 
Before us lay the city, with its handsome white 
houses, its minarets peeping from out the dark 
green trees, and a slope of bare hills rising gently 
in the background. How these hills glowed in the 
light of sunset! 

But the people amused us most. They were of 
every colour and of every variety of costume, 
from the swarthy Ethiopian, with his pink turban, 

h2 



1 00 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

to the bronze-coloured gentleman who rode so 
grandly on his donkey, or to the other fellow, 
as majestic, though only half clothed, as if the 
richest robes of India were on his back. 

We took up our quarters at Shepheard's, and 
next day took a walk over dusty roads, shaded by 
beautiful trees, and crowded with Arabs and their 
poor ill-used donkeys, until we reached the banks 
of the Nile, up which dahabiehs were speeding 
at full sail. There were also barges, laden with 
Indian corn, the owners of which sleep on the 
top, to prevent its being stolen. We inspected 
some of their hovels, which are made of dried 
mud, mixed with straw (the unburnt brick), and 
are all equally dirty. One hut often contains 
about fifty animals, human, asinine, bovine, and 
canine. 

" Do you like the Viceroy ?" we asked of 
Certezza. 

"No, miss, he has ruined his country. He is 
very hospitable to European strangers of distinc- 
tion, and they do their best to make him popular ; 
but he is a very tyrant to his people. When any 
foreigner comes whom he wishes to honour, he 
provides him a steamer at his own expense, and 
sends him up the Nile. He is furnished with an 
order for getting provisions gratis, which means 



PROVIDING FOR DISTINGUISHED TRAVELLERS. 101 

that the poor people must supply everything with- 
out being paid for it. When Lord Canning visited 
Egypt, he accepted the steamer; but as he had 
been warned beforehand, he watched when pro- 
visions came on board, and then he said, i Where 
are the people who brought these? I wish to see 
them.' And when the people came, he asked 
* What's the price of these sheep ? those chickens ? 
I want to pay for everything.' " 

" Oh ! how dreadful ! I wish all travellers 
had Lord Canning's courage. But will our Prince 
and Princess be provided for in the same 
way ?" 

" Just the same, miss." 

" I'm very sorry. What would they say in 
England if they knew ?" 

We looked at the steamboats, but did not like 
them — perhaps because we saw through Certezza's 
spectacles. We then asked him how much he 
would take for a trip by time to the Second 
Cataract ; and also for two months in Syria. We 
thought the sum he stated extravagant; but as 
his testimonials gave him a very high character, 
and as the Consul said we could not have a 
better dragoman, we agreed to engage him ; 
Giacomo, in the meantime, having been engaged 
by the other party. 



I 



102 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" You needn't be afraid with me," said Cer- 
tezza, " for I've been with the first traveller who 
went to the White Nile, and wrote a book about 
it. 

" What was his name ?" 

" I'm not good at remembering names. It was 
Bur— Bur " 

"Burckhardt?" 

" Yes, that was it. And you see, since my 
name's got known, everybody wants to have me. 
Why, miss, I'm generally engaged by telegram 
before ever I leave Malta. Other dragomans are 
jealous ; and once when a gentleman asked for me 
at the hotel, they told him, 'Certezza's dead.' 
And he met me a few days afterwards, and said, 
* What, Certezza ! you here ? I heard you were 
dead.' ' Ah ! my lord,' said I, ' it's very likely you 
did. They all know they've no chance till after 
I'm engaged ; and my sons too, for I always try 
to get them a family first. For me, I'm sure of 
one, so I can wait.' " 

"Well, Certezza, if we agree to your terms, 
you'll choose a nice boat for us, one like the 
Elizabeth, that Giacomo showed us at Alexandria, 
or like the two Agnes saw to-day. I suppose we 
can trust to you ?" 

" Oh ! yes, miss ; I'll get the very best boat on 



. ENGAGING A DRAGOMAN. 103 

the Nile — only not the Elizabeth, for they won't let 
that go up the Cataract. We'll make the contract 
for three months ; after which will be the proper 
time to go to Syria." 

" I think," said Violet, " we had better not 
make the contract for Syria now." 

" Ah ! but, miss, some one may say to me 
on the Nile, 4 Certezza, are you engaged ?' I 
answer, * No/ And then how can I wait for your 
deciding, and perhaps lose my trip ? " 

" I think, Violet," said Agnes, " we w r ould be 
better to make it for the whole at once. They say 
Arab dragomans are such rascals, and this is a man 
of such established character, and so respectable 
for us going with. The Consul gives him a high 
character ; and what could be surer than the 
guide-book ?" 

44 But, Certezza, if any of us should take ill and 
not be able to go to Syria, or if any misfortune 
should happen to our friends at home, how about 
the contract ?" 

44 Oh I miss, I'll make no difficulty. You see, 
I'm not like an ordinary dragoman — I'll take such 
care of you. But whatever you do, don't take an 
Arab. They haven't the least idea how English 
ladies and gentlemen want to be served. . They 



1 



104 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

can't set a table, nor give you clean beds — they're 
so dirty." 

" Is it necessary to make the contract for three 
months ?" 

" Yes, miss ; if you want to go to Wadee Halfeh, 
and see the antiquities properly. Ah! miss, I'm 
so fond of antiquities. If I was clever, what a 
book I would write! But a few days longer 
or shorter to the trip, that won't matter to our 
contract." 

Some of the terms of our agreement were as 
follows : — 

3. Certezza agrees to furnish for the Nile 
journey, in clean and excellent order, a first-class daha- 
beeh to be equipped complete, with beds, lights, 
table and bed linen, and all necessary furniture, to 
furnish each day breakfast, lunch, dinner, and tea, 
at such hours, and to consist of such dishes as 
may be directed by the travellers, except wine and 
spirits. 

4. Certezza to furnish a small boat, or dinghey 
(sandal) with oars, to be used by the travellers 
whenever they please ; said small boat to be pro- 
vided with an awning ; to furnish a crew of ten 
men to sail, row, and tow the dahabeeh, besides a 
good reis, rudderman, and boy, a first-class cook, 
and a good waiter, all of whom he engages to keep 



AGREEMENT WITH DRAGOMAN. 105 

in order. He agrees that throughout the voyage 
the cabins, rooms, and everything else shall be 
kept clean and orderly, bed, table, and wash linen 
to be changed as desired by the travellers, and 
their clothes washed and ironed whenever de- 
sired. 

5. The routes, stoppages, and times of starting 
and halting, and number of hours on the journey, 
to be entirely at the discretion of the travellers. 

6. Certezza agrees to pay all expenses of 
taking the dahabeeh over the first cataract, and all 
guides, tribute, baksheesh, and to provide donkeys 
at every place visited. 

7. The travellers not to be responsible for any 
accident that may occur during the voyage to 
dahabeeh, boat, or furnishings. 

8. Certezza also agrees that the decks shall 
be washed every morning before eight o'clock, 
European time, and shall appoint some person 
of the crew, or servants, to attend to that 
duty. 

16. Any dispute arising concerning the carrying 
out of this contract to be referred to the British 
Consular authority at Cairo, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Damas- 
cus, or Beyrout, whose decision shall be binding on 
both parties, and final. 

Certezza hurried off in hot haste to secure the 



106 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

boat, as soon as this arrangement was completed. 
He soon presented to us his youngest son, Pietro, a 
smart lad of sixteen, whom he had engaged as 
waiter, and who only spoke Italian. We were 
introduced to our Reis at the Consulate, a tawny 
individual, in a long black, toga-looking garment, 
and an enormous white turban. Never shall I 
forget the puzzled expression of • his dark grey 
eyes whilst Certezza's contract with him was being 
translated into Arabic. He looked just as a fish 
might be expected to look whilst being dragged 
to shore by some skilful angler. No doubt the 
bargain was tight enough. 

After lunch we drove under the shady trees 
of the Shoobra road, to the point where the canal 
flows out of the river. A blue-clad, bare-legged, 
rather ragged fellow ran like a hare all the way 
before our carriage ; and besides being reminded 
of the origin of the term " forerunner," we were 
gratified by a distant view of the Pyramids. 
What sights we saw along that road ! Droves 
of laden donkeys, strings of laden camels, riders 
on horses and asses, picturesque, dirty, and often 
only half dressed. We thought we should like 
to give back to some of the boys the blows they 
gave their donkeys. Anything more sickening 
could scarcely be imagined. Near the town were 



THE BAZAARS. 107 

rows of little open booths, where cross-legged 
shopmen offered a variety of wares for sale; 
and before them were rows of swarthy people, 
male and female, with goods displayed on car- 
pets — sometimes actually piles of gold and silver, 
all in the dust ! 

The most interesting part of the bazaars is 
that occupied by the workers in gold and silver 
ornaments. On either side of half-dark passages, 
so narrow that two persons can scarcely pass in 
them, are miserable little shops, or rather dens, 
where men are constantly hammering away at 
trinkets. It is very funny to see an Arab woman 
of the better class riding on a donkey. Her 
loose pink silk dress and yellow over-shoes being 
covered entirely with a wide white veil, confined 
by a girdle, makes her look exactly like a pillow 
tied round the middle. And very helpless in- 
deed she is. We saw a flock of sheep being 
driven through the bazaars by a black man. 
He gave the last of the flock such fearful blows 
with a heavy stick, that the poor creatures tot- 
tered along quite insensible, whilst their driver 
continued the same process at every step. It is 
hard for us in a Christian country to comprehend 
how men could behave so inhumanly towards 
the poor Israelites, and above all, towards our 



108 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

gentle Saviour ; but a few days' residence in Egypt 
makes the wonder cease. What more expressive 
emblem can there be than " He was led as a lamb 
to the slaughter, and as a sheep before her shearers 
is dumb." 

" Why are the Arabs so cruel to their donkeys, 
so kind to their camels?" we asked of Cer- 
tezza. 

" Oh ! miss, because the camel, he keeps it in 
his heart — he don't forget. I remember once 
when I was encamping for the night, one of my 
camel-drivers unloaded his beast. It turned round, 
seized the man's head, and crunched it up like a 
nut. You see he had beaten it that very day. 
It's no use striking a camel — it won't work if you 
strike it." 

We drove through the streets to the citadel, 
and though preceded by a syce, were in constant 
terror for fear we should overrun either man or 
animal. 

"Why can't we go on donkeys?" we asked 
Certezza. 

" Oh ! miss, not respectable." 

We went through a large gateway, along a long 
passage, and over an inclined bridge, which re- 
minded us slightly of the approach to Edinburgh 
Castle, and found ourselves in a large square, 



SPLENDID VIEW. 109 

surrounded by buildings and fortifications. The 
Mosque was built by Mehemet Ali, entirely of 
Oriental alabaster, and is of course very rich. 
It has four immense square pillars, with a little 
colonnade at two sides. High up are small, 
stained glass windows. In the very centre hangs 
an immense glass chandelier, and all round are . 
graceful circles of glass lamps. The tomb of 
Mehemet Ali is near the door. It is enclosed in 
a vast construction of very richly gilt latticed 
railings. The bier is also much gilt, and covered 
with inscriptions. 

The parapet commands a splendid view of the 
city. Smokeless as most Oriental cities, it. looks 
more picturesque from above than from inside. 
Away in the distance flows the Nile ; and beyond 
it are two groups of pyramids. Certezza showed 
us the spot, near two round bastions, where Em in 
Bey escaped. The Memlooks were being slaugh- 
tered by Mehemet Ali, and this one jumped over 
the wall on his horse, which was immediately 
killed. The bey fled across the Nile, and fortified 
himself on an island, so that nobody could pass up 
or down. The Pasha sent him an offer of pardon, 
which he accepted, and became one of the chief 
men of Egypt. 

We also visited the tombs of the Circassian 



110 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Memlook kings, improperly called the tombs 
of the Caliphs. They are exquisite specimens 
of architecture, crumbling to pieces in a sandy 
desert. 

" Certezza, we want to see the petrified wood,'* 
said Violet. 

" Not worth going to see, miss." 

u And the Pyramids, and the Niloineter, and old 
Cairo, and Roda." 

" Oh ! miss, it isn't a good time to visit the 
Pyramids, because you've so far to ride on a donkey 
to avoid the water. And these other places you'd 
better leave till we're coming down the river. 
There will be plenty of time ; and t'will be much 
easier." 

" I should like to see the Cadi's court," said 
Edith. 

" Oh I miss, you couldn't go there. It isn't a 
place for a lady, and it would break your heart. 
It's a court of cruelty, not a court of justice. A man 
wants to separate from his wife, he goes there, and 
you'll see her crying and sobbing, and it's just that 
he wants a new one." 

Certezza spent most of his time on the verandah 
of the hotel talking with every one that came, and 
giving advice all round. He had put on the dress 
of an Emir, much to the disgust of Arab dragomans, 



POETRY OF THE EAST. Ill 

and very gorgeous his portly form appeared in folds 
of black cloth, with turban of yellow silk, and girdle 
of fine cashmere. 

" How we envy you your dragoman,"' said every 
one. 

" I would trust Certezza like a father," said one 
lady. " We only wish we were so fortunate." 

" I have heard a great deal about the poetry of 
the East," said Agnes, " and more particularly of 
Cairo. I have not yet found out where it is. Is 
there any poetry in seeing people housed like pigs, 
and with clothing as scanty as their bristles ? Is 
there any poetry in condemning women to walk with 
a dirty piece of cloth before their mouths? Is there 
any poetry in the bleeding sides of the donkeys ? 
Is there any poetry in being half suffocated with dust 
every time you go out, and seeing so many people 
blind of an eye? Is there any poetry in the mosqui- 
toes ? Is there not great sameness in the blue green 
of the palm-tree and the prickly pear, and in the dull 
green of the olive ? Is there not great sameness in 
gazing at a landscape of sandhills? Commend me 
to Northern climes for beautiful scenerv, and for 
poetry too ! Is there anything in the South like the 
variegated tints of our autumn woods ? Is there any- 
thing like the raindrops trickling over the moss- 
covered rocks ? No, though our skies be less bright, 



112 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

our earth is certainly fresher. I am the more thank- 
ful for having been born in Britain, every day I am 
abroad." 

We were very much interested in the obelisk of 
Heliopolis ; the On of Scripture, of which Joseph's 
father-in-law was high-priest. Near it, in a garden, 
grows a very ancient-looking tree, whose trunk is 
divided into five spiral parts. It is said that under 
its shade the Virgin Mary once rested with the in- 
fant Saviour. 

We spent two weeks in Cairo, before Certezza's 
arrangements were completed. We did not see our 
boat until embarking on the fifteenth of December. 
Two Scotch gentlemen came to see us off, and, 

■ 

as it was all very gaily decorated, and the sailors 
had donned their best attire, they expressed their 
admiration, and gave Certezza great praise. But 
Agnes felt her heart sink as soon as she stepped on 
board. The boat was so unlike those which Cer- 
tezza had shown her two weeks previously; al- 
though it had the same number of rooms. The 
cabins were narrow and confined ; and no conveni- 
ence of drawers for our wardrobes. 

For those who have not seen a Nile boat, I may 
as well describe it. Ours was painted green and 
red, the stern was taken up with a small dining sa- 
loon and four bed-rooms, two of which you passed 



KASR EL NIL. 113 

before entering this apartment, and the other two 
with the bath-room were separated from it by a 
curtain. All the sleeping cabins had sliding doors. 
Outside the door was Pietro's little pantry, and Cer- 
tezza's canteen, which were kept in great order ; in 
the centre of the deck was a filter for water, and 
right before the mast a kitchen, where the cook 
performed his operations in the open air. The 
upper deck was partially covered with an awning, 
and furnished with two high divans and two Tur- 
key carpets. At the stern was a great heap of 
dried slices of bread for the sailors, a basket of 
oranges, and two coops of live poultry. A dark 
steersman in a white turban guided the helm. His 
rudder was tied round with a brown sheepskin, to 
prevent his dusky fingers being chafed. As it was 
Ramadan, the Reis was sitting with a very long 
face. The men, who were of all shades, occupied 
the lower deck in the forepart of the vessel. Cer- 
tezza sat at a table before the door. 

We got our sail up, and passed close under the 
palace of the Viceroy. Kasr el Nil, on the oppo- 
site bank, is supposed to occupy the site of Pharaoh's 
palace. On the island of Roda, immediately in 
front of it, Moses was found. We stopped for the 
first night at Geezeh. What a magnificent sunset 
we had ! The western sky seemed all on fire, the 



•• 



1 1 4 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

tufted palms and distant pyramids standing out 
against it in bold relief, and the windows of other 
boats glittering brightly. A little above the golden 
blaze the crescent moon looked calmly down on us 
as we glided noiselessly along the quiet river. 

While we were at dessert, the crew began to sing 
and play on some instruments which Certezza had 
made us buy for them. Now and then a solo voice 
took all the turns and quavers to itself, the chorus 
being a monotonous Oh, oh, oh, oh ! The door of 
the cabin stood open after dinner. Straight before 
it Certezza and his son sat at the little table enjoy- 
ing their repast. Beyond them we could see the 
African sailors squatting round a fire, which burned 
with a weirdish glare. Civilization and barbarism in 
one little boat ! When the music stopped, Cer- 
tezza entertained us with some lively strains on his 
guitar. 

Next morning we peeped early from ourwindows, 
which we were obliged to keep open for air, and 
saw a great many people bathing. One had spread 
his carpet, and was praying on the banks of the 
river. No wonder the Egyptians are fond of the 
mud. It is riches to them in what it produces, 
and it affords the material of which they construct 
their houses. Agnes read the first chapter of Exo- 
dus before breakfast, and thought that part of the 



IN LOW SPIRITS. 115 

twelfth and the whole of the thirteenth and four- 
teenth verses might be applied to the asses now-a- 
days, if one could say so without irreverence. We 
had a walk through the bazaars of Geezeh. At 
sunset a beautiful soft light was thrown on the oppo- 
site bank, the range of low white battlement-look- 
ing hills, and the distant mosque of the citadel 
looming in the background, like the scenery of some 
fairy dream. 

Our sailors broke their fast by squatting on the 
deck in a regular round ring, sitting as close as 
children do in " hunt the slipper." They had in 
the centre a bowl of soup made from lentils and 
onions. Into this each dipped a morsel of bread, 
and sucked everyone of his ten fingers after he had 
finished. We were towed a short way, and fastened 
to a mud bank below a bare high wall, so that for 
two days we could not get a walk, and felt our 
spirits rather low in consequence. We thought the 
wind was never going to rise. We had no occupa- 
tion but our books, and rather envied Certezza his 
employment of shaping and sewing a Maltese flag, 
which was to fly with the British one from our 
stern. 

" Might we not see the Pyramids to-day ? or the 
Niloraeter?" suggested Agnes every morning. 

i2 



116 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" Oh ! miss, don't be impatient. I'll show you 
everything that's to be seen on the Nile." 

He sometimes entertained us in the evening with 
stories of his own adventures. 

"Were you ever robbed in Syria?" asked 
Edith. 

" No, miss, but I once helped a party that was. 
We were in the desert, near Mount Sinai, when we 
heard that an Italian count and his family had been 
attacked by Bedouins. They took away everything 
they had, and left them to starve. Not a bite of 
food had they had for days, and when they saw me 
the ladies cried so, and begged on their knees I 
would help them." 

" And what did you do ?" 

" Well, I had a lot of extra camels, which I of- 
fered them either to go to Petra with me, for their 
dragoman and courier had been killed, or to go 
back if they wished it. They all wanted to go back 
except the son, who thought he should like to see 
Jerusalem. But his mother and sister entreated 
hiin not to do it, and they all left calling me their 
good angel, * carissimo Certezza.' I never heard 
more of them till I was in Ferrara, as courier 
with a gentleman. I was talking to the landlord 
about Mount Sinai, when he said, 'Did you 
ever hear of Count Silvia's family, whom all our 



BENISOOEF. 117 

town laughs at. They've got some grand story 
about being attacked by Bedouins in the desert, 
and robbed, but nobody believes it when they 
tell it.' I never said nothing, but I wrote to 
Count Silvia next day. That letter never was an- 
swered." 

" Oh I how ungrateful !" exclaimed Edith. 

u But next morning a beautiful carriage and four 
horses drove up to the door. Two ladies rushed 
in, saying, 'Where's Certezza? where's our savi- 
our !' And they put their hands round my neck 
and hugged me and kissed me. My master was 
quite astonished, but Count Silvia explained to him 
how I had saved them, so he allowed me to go with 
them. And they put me in their carriage, and took 
me to their house, and I was their guest all the 
time we were in Ferrara." 

We reached Benisooef on Christmas day, exactly 
ten days after we had left Cairo. How delighted 
we were to get out ! We passed under some fine 
old acacias, then in front of a red brick palace of 
the Pacha's, then through winding lanes of dark 
houses, inhabited by a poor-looking, dirty race, and 
soon found ourselves preceded, followed, and sur- 
rounded by troops of nimble children, who seemed 
quite excited at seeing us. A wave of Certezza's 
stick was always sufficient to send them and a few 



118 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

bullocks scampering off. " They all think I'm a 
Pasha," said he. The girls were all tattooed on the 
face and arms, and had fingers stained with henna. 
Sometimes a boy would divest himself of his only 
garment, and holding it up in both hands, turn 
round and round for the amusement of spectators. 

At length we spied a single clean-looking white- 
washed house. A tidy woman made signs to us to 
enter, which we could hardly decline, having spoken 
to no stranger for eleven days. We found she was 
the wife of the postmaster, and bitterly did she re- 
gret coming to Benisooef, where she was the only 
European resident. She was sometimes obliged to 
confide her child to the care of a dirty Arab ; and 
it had already suffered from ophthalmia, and other 
complaints of the country. Her husband, a very 
intelligent Florentine, accompanied us back to our 
boat. He told us that there was war between 
Turkey and Greece, and also that the Prince of 
Wales was not coming on the Nile, because Queen 
Victoria had abdicated on account of the Irish 
Church ! This we were extremely sorry to hear. 

Although the wind was blowing strongly in our 
favour, we remained at Benisooef twenty-four hours, 
in order to have our clothes washed by an Arab 
woman. As they were dipped in the Nile, and no 
soap used, she returned them considerably tinged 



ROCK TOMBS. 119 

with mud. It was very provoking to see Certez- 
za's shirts being scrubbed snow-white by the sailors. 

Another dahabieh arrived, containing our friends 
the Stuarts. How much handsomer the interior of 
their boat was than ours ! They had every con- 
venience in their sleeping cabins, and the dining sa- 
loon contained a handsome sideboard, cheffoniere, 
and two nice book-cases. They accepted our in- 
vitation to dine with us on New Year's Dav ; and 
Certezza fired two shots in their honour as they 
went off, to which they responded. Signor J. lent 
us two volumes of Ugo Foscolo's Letters, which 
proved a real blessing during the next two months. 

After we left Benisooef the water was agitated 
so as to be almost like the sea in a slight breeze. 
We passed hills covered with rock tombs very near 
the water's edge. It seems that in ancient times all 
the towns were situated on the eastern bank, and 
the sepulchres on the western. Funeral parties 
were ferried across in boats, and from this fact arose 
the fables respecting Charon and the Styx. We 
saw many rich fields of dora, the kind of corn 
which is most eaten by the Arabs. The grain grows 
in a small heap the shape of a pyramid, and has 
something of the form of barley. We wondered 
much what induced the ancient Egyptians to build 
themselves such monuments and sepulchres. They 



120 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

lived longer than people do in the present day ; and 
the world was then too young for its inhabitants to 
have found out how idle a thing is fame. But how 
different are their dry records from the heart his- 
tories of the Bible ! Little do we know of Abra- 
ham's outward circumstances, yet we have his inner 
history laid bare before us. Much may we learn 
of the power and greatness of the Pharaohs ; but 
of themselves, of the real men, nothing. 

Our Christmas night at Benisooef had been ra- 
ther an eventful one. Certezza had often told us 
about the rats running over his face at night as he 
slept in the hold, and mentioned that he thought 
there might be about fifty on board. He and Pietro 
had decorated the saloon with palm branches and 
oranges, which unfortunately tempted these disagree- 
able animals into paths previously untried by them. 
Violet and Agnes were in the habit of shutting the 
outer door of the saloon, and leaving the doors of 
their cabins open. How they were paralyzed with 
fear when, on awakening from a somewhat disturbed 
slumber, they heard the rats running and squeaking 
all round their heads ! From that time for about a 
fortnight their terror for these intruders was such 
that both managed to squeeze into a berth scarcely 
large enough for one. Certezza promised to get a 
cat at the first village. 



ARAB DRAGOMANS. 121 

He had now finished his flags, and he as well as 
Pietro occupied most of their time in the unsightly 
work of stuffing birds for sale. Agnes began to 
think that the voyage had been undertaken princi- 
pally for their amusement. We sometimes had to 
wait an hour for breakfast while Pietro was out 
shooting, and he proved totally incompetent to keep 
our cabins clean. The decks were never washed. 
The carpets had been taken up, and it was plain 
our comfort was quite of secondary importance. 
Our clothes were washed, as a great favour, every 

* 

three weeks, but they generally got soiled again 
before Certezza found time to iron them. He was 
very fond of relating stories, most of which related 
to his own exploits, or to the incapacity of Arab 
dragomans. 

" Some of these men give themselves out as very 
accomplished, when they know nothing," said he 

one evening. " Once Lord S was on the Nile. 

The first two days he saw nothing of his dragoman. 
* Where is Mahmoud ?' said he whilst at dinner the 
third day. ' I've engaged him as general servant, 
and I want him to wait on me.' The two waiters 
went out and returned, saying, ' Mahmoud's at din- 
ner, with an Arab waiting on him.' ' Very well, 
we can wait till he's ready.' Mahmoud rose and 
came immediately. 4 Oh ! no,' said his lordship, 1 1 



122 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

shall not begin my dinner till you've quite finished 
yours.' But at the very next village he ordered the 
captain to put the dragoman out, and they finished 
the voyage without him." 

" But how could they do without a dragoman? 1 ' 
asked Edith. 

" Oh ! miss, they didn't need him. Lord S 

commanded, and the waiters translated." 

" I should like to see us try to put out Certezza," 
said Agnes aside. 

u Do you think we can go to Petra?" asked 
Edith. 

"No, miss, I never advise ladies to go there. 
You see I had once my purse stolen on the land- 
ing-place at Boulak. I felt the fellow do it, so I 
clutched him by the throat, and squeezed him till 
his eyes were as big as eggs, just starting out of his 
head. If the bystanders hadn't separated me from 
him, he'd soon have been dead. Now, miss, I 
couldn't do that at Petra." 

" Did you ever see the Prince of Wales in Egypt?" 
asked Edith. 

Certezza left the room, and in a few moments 
returned. 

" Yes, miss. Once when I was pouring out water 
for ray party at Keneh, he came up and called out, 
4 Young man, give me some water !' l I'm not a 



ON A SANDBANK. 123 

young man, Highness/ said I, ' I'm an old man, but 
here is what you wish.' " 

The thought flashed across Edith's mind that per- 
haps Certezza had manufactured the story during 
his short absence. 

He had many other tales ; how he outwitted a 
young lady who had a propensity for flirting while 
her parents had gone to see the ruins ; how he had 
once a battle of fists with a young lord, his em- 
ployer, who had often insulted him. In short, he 
boasted that there was no one on earth whom he 
could not "manage." Scarcely a boat did we 
pass but what he had some disparaging story 
to relate both of the gentleman and the drago- 
man. 

Near Golosaneh a sudden shiver through the 
boat, a sudden flap of the sail, and a rush of all the 
crew forward, showed that we had run on a sand- 
bank. The men sprang into the water, and had 
hard work pushing us off with their shoulders and 
with long poles. We stopped at the village for 
twenty minutes to purchase lentils for the sailors' 
soup, as Certezza said they were a few piastres 
cheaper here. They were of a bright red colour, 
and reminded us of the meal Jacob gave to Esau. 
We stepped out to have a look at the people. 
Woolly hair and nose-rings seemed very common ; 



124 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

and some boys had their hair all shaved except a 
single tuft on the crown. Some of the girls talked 
to Pietro, holding a corner of their blue woollen 
robes before their mouths while he answered them. 
The mouth seemed to require a covering more than 
any other part of the face. 

After leaving Minieh our eyes were refreshed by 
sight of the stripes of brilliant green which border- 
ed the river on either side. The hills became 
chalky, and were honeycombed here and there with 
rock grottoes. At Sioot the Stuarts again overtook 
us. They had to remain there for letters, but, as 
Certezza said the antiquities had been spoiled by 
the Pacha's soldiers during the Abyssinian war, we 
moved on. We arrived at Girgeh on New Year 1 s 
Day, and had not the pleasure of any one's com- 
pany. We afterwards learnt that Certezza had 
promised the captain to give the sailors corn on 
reaching Keneh, provided he could manage to keep 
at a distance from the Stuarts. 

"If they are in the East," said he, "we must be 
in the West." 

At Girgeh the river is always eating away at the 
west bank, so a large portion of the town is now 
below water* We had a walk through the bazaars, 
which were more uncivilized than anything we had 
yet seen. The people stared at us, as peasants in 



BELLI ANEH. 125 

England would at a wild-beast show. They were 
a very dirty, oppressed-looking race, and many of 
them were blind. 

Here our sailors baked their second supply of 
bread. Two guards were furnished every night 
by the village near which we stopped, to watch us, 
as, should anything be stolen from a dahabieh, the 
Government makes the whole community pay for 
it. We passed a steamer belonging to M. Mariette, 
the great excavator of antiquities. In his preface 
to the catalogue of the Boulak Museum, he pro- 
nounces the Pharaoh of Exodus i. to be identical 
with Reraeses II., the great Reraeses so often con- 
founded with Sesostris ; and Pthahmen or Meneph- 
thah to be the Pharaoh whose army was drowned 
in the Red Sea. As most of the antiquities are 
of the age of Remeses, we looked forward with 
great pleasure to studying whatever can be known 
of him. 

We spent Sunday at Bellianeh. What clusters 
of little birds were always perched about our rig- 
ging ! The chief baker s dream was a very natural 
one in Egypt. Hundreds of shadoofs were being 
worked on either bank. The shadoof is used for 
irrigating the fields. It consists of a pole balanced 
on a couple of upright stakes. One end is weight- 
ed with a lump of hard earth ; from the other de- 



126 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

pends the rope and bucket. Where the bank was 
high, three shadoofs were generally required to 
raise the water, and six men were always engaged 
in this laborious occupation. They were entirely 
unclothed, excepting a pair of short drawers or a 
scanty petticoat. They were of all shades, the 
pure blacks being generally placed next the 
water. 

u Did you ever see such hard work ?" said Vio- 
let. "Truly this is a land of slavery. Don't 
you think we might throw them some bak- 
sheesh ? " 

" No, miss," said Certezza, " they don't need it. 
Each is the proprietor of a small piece of ground, 
and if they all subscribed something, they could get 
a water-wheel to do the work for them. But the)' 
prefer to work this way for two hours at a time ; 
they never dress, and they eat very poorly. They've 
got plenty of money buried underground. But 
they're great fools, for the Government will get it 
all in the end." 

" How is that?" asked Edith. 

" Oh, miss, the stick ! You see, they'll stand 
fifty sticks, a hundred sticks, before they'll tell where 
their money is. They don't make their houses any 
better, because, if they did, the governor would think 
they were getting rich. And their wives will say 



KENEH. 127 

they're cowards if they tell, to escape the goor- 
bash. During the war in Crete hundreds of them 
were taken away for the army. They'd never been 
accustomed to anything but the shadoof, and the 
most of them fell sick and died. None of them 
ever got paid, nor had they the means of getting 
back to their homes; so the others wandered 
about as beggars in Cairo and Alexandria. How 
differently the English did during the Crimean 
war ! They had a contingent of Druses, and how 
surprised the men were when they found they 
were to keep their arms and be sent home. Now, 
if an Englishman travels in the Hauran, the people 
will come and offer him sheep and chickens in a 
present ; and they won't take payment, for. they'll 
kiss the flag, and say, * Oh, the blessed nation !' " 

We arrived at Keneh on the sixth of January ; 
and while at breakfast Certezza entered and ad- 
vised us to give the sailors thirty shillings of bak- 
sheesh. Instead of giving it ourselves, as we had 
done on a previous occasion, we handed it to him, 
and were not at the time aware how this enabled 
him to fulfiFhis promise made at Sioot. We won- 
dered why the sailors never thanked us. Next day 
we reached Luxor, and had only time to get letters 
and pay the Stuarts a visit, as Mustapha Agha told 
Certezza that the water was getting lower in the 



128 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Cataract every day, and we might not be able to get 
up. An American gentleman, Mr. Brown, who was 
with hi3 family for the second time on the Nile, had 
called twice. Certezza always made disagreeable 
remarks about him, and I believe told him at last 
that we did not wish to see him. He had never 
got a cat for us, and when we saw that we 
were leaving Luxor without an antidote to our 
nightly torment on board, we resolved to shame him 
by sitting up in turns till morning. 

The ruins of the Luxor temple are very pictur- 
esque. The English obelisk is still standing. Its 
companion graces the Place de la Concorde, at 
Paris. 

" How I wondered to see the obelisks at Rome," 
said Agnes. " Little did I think they were the 
work of a yet more ancient people, who don't get 
half the credit they deserve." 

The ruins of Thebes are around the rugged hills 
on the opposite bank. The view here was the first 
really beautiful one we had seen on the Nile. 
Thebes is referred to in the eighth verse of the third 
chapter of Nahum. " Art thou better than popu- 
lous No, which was situate among the rivers ?" The 
word sea seems a strange interloper in this verse. 
It is however constantly applied by the Arabs to 
the Nile, and might be so in these days. 



ESNEH. 129 

We arrived at Esneh next day. An English 
party called, but Certezza gave them the false infor- 
mation that we were not up. Here he procured 
two cats, which were from this time tied on either 
side of our cabins, one in the saloon, the other in the 
dressing-room. Their cries and fierce struggles to 
escape often disturbed us greatly ; but anything was 
better than the rats. 

Esneh is picturesquely situated. The banks on 
either side were green with a young wheat crop, 
and on the north was a grove of very graceful 
palm-trees. Lofty bare peaks tower across the 
river. The village itself was frightfully dirty ; the 
people surpassed in filthiness anything we had yet 
seen. Only the portico of the temple is now un- 
covered, through M. Mariette's exertions ; the rest 
being crowded with Arabs hovels. The grandeur 
of its twenty-four massive columns is truly amazing. 
Each has a differently sculptured capital. They, 
the walls, and the roof are completely covered 
with figures and hieroglyphics, but are very much 
defaced and blackened by Arab hands and Arab 
fires. Slight traces of the colouring still remain. 
Three of the columns are very remarkable. One 
represents Famine, and has a bare capital ; another 
Egypt ; and another Plenty, richly ornamented with 
ears of Indian corn. Violet suggested that these 

K 



130 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

might have been intended to commemorate the 
seven years of plenty and the seven years of famine 
in the days of Joseph. 

"Just look at the difference between ancient 
architecture and modern I" exclaimed Edith, as she 
stood between this magnificent structure and the 
mud hovels which surrounded it. 

" Had the ancient Egyptians no written records 
of how they transported their blocks of stone?" 
asked Agnes. 

"They had. but these writings were all burnt 
in the Alexandrian library," answered Certezza. 

" Is not there an Egyptian temple on the road tQ 
Sinai?" asked Violet. 

"You mean Sarabut-el-Khadem, miss. I had 
the honour of discovering that, though the guide- 
book doesn't mention it. I was going with a party, 
and a gentleman was took ill, and I had to find the 
shortest way back. How they thanked me for 
the discovery ! They said it was well worth coming 
to see." 

We remained at Esneh over Sunday to allow of 
the sailors baking their bread, there being no ovens 
above the Cataract. Certezza had been telling us 
frightful stories about the dangers of the Cataract, 
so that we almost began to fancy it was our duty 
not to attempt passing it. Agnes, however, had set 



DANGERS OF THE CATARACT. 131 

her heart on reaching Wadee Halfeh. On Sunday 
morning, whilst Violet and Edith were seated on 
deck, Certezza approached them and said — 

" They say that we cannot pass the Cataract un- 
less you will be responsible for the boat. Mr. R. 
has made himself responsible for his." 

" How much would it cost us should it be lost ?" 
asked Violet. 

" Five hundred pounds, miss." 

14 1 shall not be" responsible." 

"Nor I," said Edith. "You had better ask 
Agnes." 

Agnes was indignant when told of this proposi- 
tion. 

"I shall say nothing to-day, as it is Sunday," 
said she, " but to-morrow Certezza shall know my 
mind." 

Certezza interpreted her silence as evidence of 
timidity. Whilst waiting on us at dinner, he put 
on the air of a bully, and said : 

" The thing is, those who become responsible get 
tip the Cataract; and those who do not become 
responsible don't." 

Next morning Agnes, taking our contract and 
guidebook, walked quietly to Certezza's table. 

" Certezza," said she, " I have heard what you 
said yesterday to Miss Violet and Miss Edith about 

k2 



132 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

our being responsible for the boat. You will see 
from our contract, however, that in no case are we 
bound to be responsible for anything. And as 
Murray's guide-book says the Reis of the Cataract 
is the responsible party, it would be unfair to take 
his duties from him." 

" Yes, miss, you are quite right," answered Cer- 
tezza, in his most sugary tone. " It is I who ought 
to be responsible. Don't be afraid. I'll take you 
up the Cataract." 

At Edfoo we visited another interesting temple, 
built chiefly by the Ptolemies. In the evening Cer- 
tezza said, 

" The Reis has been very sulky all day." 

" Indeed ; what's the matter with him ?" asked 
Violet. 

" Oh, miss, to-morrow's the end of his Rama- 
dan, and he's afraid he'll not get saying his prayers 
in a mosque." 

" But I thought Ramadan lasted much longer." 

" So it does, miss ; but for working people they 
allow a shorter time. If you would allow the Reis 
and sailors to stay here till to-morrow, it would 
be better than giving them any baksheesh, and 
they'd work with much more spirit afterwards. 
The Reis has been trying to persuade me all day, 
but I said I couldn't do it without the ladies." 



WAITING FOE THE CAPTAIN'S PRAYERS. 133 

" Well, Certezza, do you think we should do it?" 

" Yes, miss, I think you should." 

We contented ourselves with taking a walk next 
morning, and thought we should have started in the 
afternoon. But Certezza said, 

" Oh, miss, the Reis says he made a mistake in 
looking at the moon ! It is to-morrow, not to-day, 
that he has to say his prayers. If you'll only 
allow him to stay one night more, he'll guarantee 
your going up the Cataract." 

" Very well, Certezza, we shall do it, as we think 
it right to respect every one's religion." 

" Giacomo says his ladies can't understand why 
you are so frightened about the rats. They've 
hundreds on board, but the ladies don't mind 
them." 

Next morning we left very early, after having 
waited forty-eight hours for the Captain's prayers. 
We passed the quarries of Silsilli, where the river 
is very narrow, and whence most of the stone for 
the ancient temples was taken. Certezza could 
get no meat at Edfoo but a quarter camel, which 
the sailors devoured for supper. We reached Asou- 
an on the following morning, after eighteen hours 
sailing. It struck Violet that the Reis might have 
been in time to say his prayers there. 

Eight other boats were waiting to be taken up 



134 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

the Cataract. The first one that arrives has a right 
to the first turn ; so we expected to wait seve- 
ral days. We anchored in front of some beautiful 
palm trees, where such numbers of queerly-dressed 
people were continually walking or riding, that we 
never wearied of gazing on them. In walking 
through the bazaars, we were followed by troops 
of dirty children, all clamouring for " baksheesh." 
The very shopmen screamed that odious word as 
we passed. Their wares were of the most miserable 
kind. 

Certezza was summoned, as he said, immediately 
by the Governor, who wished his assistance in hav- 
ing the contract made for all the nine boats that 
wished to pass the Cataract. 

a You see, miss, he's a stranger here, and don't 
know much about it. But they told him, 4 You'd 
better send for Certezza ; he's been a dragoman on 
the Nile for thirty years.' So I went, and we all 
bowed down our heads while they said their 
prayers ; you see we must do as they do. Then 
they asked me which boat could go up, and which 
couldn't, and I made them promise to take up all 
the boats. They had refused the French Marquis, 
but I made them promise to try and take him. 
And he said, i Certezza, I'll not forget you.' " 

At night we saw the constellation of the Southern 



GftANITS BLOCKS. 135 

Cross very distinctly in the heavens. The stars 
shine here most brilliantlv ; we could almost see to 
read by moonlight. We walked over the remains 
of the town of Syene, and had also a nice row in 
the sandal, past the island of Elephantine, and past 
enormous masses of black granite boulders that 
project above the water like turrets. Many in- 
scriptions are written on the rocks, and one column 
of hieroglyphics is particularly interesting, from 
the fact of its having been used to measure the 
rise of the Nile. 

The river above this is very narrow. It is bor- 
dered by high hills of reddish sand, with a scanty 
piece of ground near the water, carelessly sown 
with dora or lupins. We saw some stones whose 
edges were cut so as to resemble saws ; and Cer- 
tezza explained how the ancient Egyptians split the 
granite blocks. They managed with great labour 
to cut out small pieces from the edge of a rock ; 
they then fitted a bar of ebony wood into these holes ; 
water was allowed gradually to leak into the wood ; 
this made it swell and split the side of* the rock 
quite smooth. Many of the boulders in the islet 
heaps with which the river is here studded, are 
worn into most fantastic shapes and cavities by the 
immense force of water and sand during the inun- 
dation. 



136 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

In the evening a paper was handed in, stating 
that Divine service would be held next day on 
board one of the dahabiehs. Certezza looked very 
much annoyed. 

" When I travelled with Lady Ford," said he, 
" she said that a clergyman's wife had given her 
the advice never to receive anyone on her boat, 
nor to go on board any other boat, even on pre- 
tence of church service. It doesn't do for ladies 
alone to do so." 

" But what harm is there in the service?" asked 
Edith. 

" Oh, miss, it's not the church, but after it's over 
the talk-talking begins." 

" But I went alone to an afternoon service at 
Innsbruck," said Agnes. 

" Ah ! but, miss, you see the Nile's a corner of 
the world, and all the queer people come 
here." 

We thought, nevertheless, that it was our duty 
to go. How simple and impressive the service 
was ! On the deck of a small dahabieh, screened 
only by a slight awning from the gaze of a Moslem 
crowd, we listened to two clergymen in white 
surplices, one of whom read the service ; the other 
offered up an extemporary prayer, and gave us a 
very simple earnest address. The communion fol- 



DIFFICULTIES OF THE CATARACT. 137 

lowed, and we realized vividly the force of these 
lines: 

" Where'er we seek Thee, Thou art found, 
And every place, is holy ground." 

The south wind was blowing, so the heat became 
intolerable. 

The Stuarts arrived next day. We hastened to 
call on them. They had seen many of the ruins on 
their way up, and were surprised that we had not 
remained longer at Luxor. We had some con- 
versation about the difficulties of the Cataract, and 
Mrs. Stuart said — 

" Giacomo must take his party up, for he is under 
heavy bonds to do so. He forfeits two hundred 
pounds if he does not go." 

" Ah," thought Edith, " that is why we stayed 
at Edfoo ! Certezza wanted to let his son 
get past us, and have the first chance." 

When we were all in the sandal in the afternoon, 
Certezza declared we might have to wait a fort- 
night, as Mr. Thomsons boat had stuck on 
two rocks, and would neither go up nor 
down. 

u It is a pity we stayed so long at Edfoo," said 
Agnes. 

" Do you think so ? " said Certezza, starting. 
"That white opera cloak you are wearing is rather 



138 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

soiled. Let ine have it tomorrow, and I'll wash 
it." 

Certezza heard us speak one morning of calling 
on a lady of some celebrity whose dahabieh lay- 
close beside us. 

"There are many strange stories about her," 
said he. 

" What are they, Certezza ?" 

An expressive shrug of the shoulders followed. 
"Oh, miss, I knows what I knows. I hears 
everything, and I says nothing." 

We thought it more prudent not to call. 

" Certezza," said Edith, " could our sailors find 
no other place for killing a sheep than just in front 
of us ? I've sat with my eyes shut for half an hour 
not to see it." 

"Oh, piccolo core!" said Certezza, and gave 
orders for the offending object to be removed to 
another spot. 

As Certezza seemed to grudge us donkeys to ride 
to the quarries, we took a walk there to see the 
prostrate obelisk. It is a solid mass of granite, 
ninety-five feet long, and shows a mark where the 
rope was tied round it. We had a toilsome walk 
over a desert of sand, gravel, and old graves. 
Corpses are here buried a few feet below ground, 
but are disinterred and devoured by hyenas the 



BAD ACCOUNTS OF CEBTEZZA. 139 

first night. We saw some remains of grave-clothes 
lying about. Violet collected some curious speci- 
mens of granite, some of which is pink, and very 
highly polished. One variety takes the name of 
Syenite from this place. We were told that Mr. 
Thomson's boat had been pulled off the rocks, and 
the governor had given orders to have it taken 
down. But Mr. Thomson and the dragoman had 
given money to the Nubians to take it up, and it 
had stuck worse than ever. 

"The governor thinks," said Certezza, "that 
whether Mr. Thomson's boat goes up or down, no 
boat will pass the Cataract this season." 

"But you said the other day that the gover- 
nor was a stranger," said Violet. " How can he 
know ?" 

"Giacomo has got safely up," said Certezza. 
" He was telling me he has no rats on board, only 
a ferret." 

" Certezza does not keep strictly to the truth,"* 
said Violet aside to Edith. " He has forgotten what 
he said about Giacomo's rats the other day. I think 
Agnes had better go over quietly to the Stuarts' 
boat, and ask if they know what other people are 
saying about the Cataract." 

Agnes did so. Mr. Stuart said he would make 
inquiries of Mr. Brown, who would likely know 



140 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

what other gentlemen thought on the matter. In 
the meantime we heard from another party that we 
had fallen into bad hands ; that Certezza was con- 
sidered a great rascal. 

" Do you not know," said our informant, " that 
he once had a party of two young men, one of 

whom was the son of Lord . He charged 

them sixteen pounds a day on the Nile, and eight 
pounds a day in Syria ; and when they went home, 

Lord was very angry, and as he could not 

get his money back, he published the fact with 
Certezza's name in the papers for six months, both 
at Malta and Cairo ? " 

There were two large rat holes between the 
cabin and the hold, which Certezza was only now 
persuaded to stop up. 

A French boat came down early next morning 
from the second Cataract. Its flags were flying — 
its proprietors standing on the deck with looks of 
triumph ; and merrily indeed did their guns return 
the numerous salutes with which they were greeted. 

Mr. R 's boat came down, the party having got 

tired of waiting behind Mr. Thomsons boat. Their 
boat furniture was loaded on camels and conveyed 
to Philae, they having hired, at their- own expense, 
as Certezza told us, a Nubian boat to take them 
to Wadee Halfeh. The other party were thorough- 



GOORBASH. 141 

ly tired of the whole thing, and had resolved to 
go back to Thebes. 

At noon we heard the delightful news that Mr. 
Thomson's boat was off the rocks. Two other 
impediments presented themselves, however, in 
the shape of two of the Viceroy's dahabiehs, which 
were to be taken up for the Prince of Wales' 
use. 

"These have to go before we do," said Cer- 
tezza. 

" But they have round sterns, which you said 
could not pass the Cataract. And they are so 
heavy I fear the Nubians will not be able to take 
them," said Violet. 

" Oh ! miss, goorbash will make them go." 

" What's goorbash ?" 

" The stick ! I wish you saw how they beat the 
people." 

In the evening Mr. Stuart called, with Mr. and 
Mrs. Brown. They said it was every one's opinion 
that we could pass the Cataract, if we only insisted 
on doing so. 

" You know Mr. R has no dragoman," said 

Mr. Brown ; " he manages everything himself, and 
has only a travelling servant to interpret. How 
Certezza misrepresents everything !" 

At eleven o'clock Certezza appeared. " I've 



142 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

been with the governor," he said ; " he sent for me 
on board the Marquis's boat, and promised to take 
my boat immediately after the Prince's. As he has 
orders to collect five hundred Nubians to take the 
Prince's boats up all in one day, he will make the 
people wait, and get ours as far as Philas to- 
morrow evening. This will be quite an event for 
me ; I never was up all in one day before. * Now, 
governor,' I said, * I'll tell you what I'll do if you 
don't keep your word. If I see you leave your 
seat on the rocks before my boat's quite up, I'll 
catch you by the neck and hold you there till it's 
finished." 

We scarcely slept all night from excitement. 
Towards morning the wind blew roughly, bending 
the tall palm-trees to the ground like ears of 
corn. Hour after hour passed, and our boat never 
moved. 

At length Violet and Edith called on the 
Stuarts. 

" Certezza does not intend to take you up," said 
the) r . "He has told several people so. He said 
to the letter-carrier at Thebes that you were not 
going further than Asouan. And the Pasha's boats 
are already in the Cataract." 

Violet returned to our deck at once. 

"What's the meaning of this, Certezza?" she 



CERTEZZA BROUGHT TO BOOK. 143 

asked. " Why have you been saying to every one 
we were not going to the second Cataract? If 
there is any imposition, we'll take another boat 
to-day, or we'll take the steamer and go down." 

" Oh ! miss, you're quite wrong, quite wrong." 

" You will not find us so simple as you think," 
continued Violet. 

" You've been so kind to me," said Certezza, 
shedding tears, " how can you think that I would 
act traitor like that ? " 

" Ah," said Edith, " we know you only stayed 
at Edfoo to let your son Giacomo get first." 

" Oh ! Miss Edith, what you've said has hurt me 
worst of all. I'd rather have my hand cut off, or 
see one of my sons brought home dead, than hear 
you say such a thing." 

Mustafa, Mr. Stuart's dragoman, sat on our deck 
all day, whilst Certezza lectured eloquently to him 
and to the sailors in Arabic. 

" Mustafa is getting his lesson," said Edith. 

We took a walk in the afternoon, accompanied 
by Certezza ; But instead of our usual friendly 
conversation, we maintained a most profound 
silence, and he looked as black as the Nile mud. 

In the evening he appeared suddenly in the 
saloon. 

" Miss Violet," he said, " I have got a certificate 



144 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

from the French Marquis, in case you should take 
ine before the consul. It states that my interview 
with the governor actually took place. And IVe 
got the vice-consul and the governor on board to 
speak for me, if you would like to see them. Mus- 
tafa, Mr. Stuart's dragoman, will translate. The 
Marquis is also here." 

"No," said Violet, "I don't like talking with 
people whose language I don't know. As for the 
Marquis, you have already advised us not to make 
the acquaintance of strangers. But we're willing 
to see Mustafa." 

Mustafa entered, and pleaded very touchingly 
for Certezza. 

" Oh ! please forgive Certezza. He's to be your 
traduttore all the way ; do smile and speak to him 
as you used to do." 

" Well, you may tell Certezza," said Violet, " that 
if he takes us to Wadee Halfeh, it's all right. If he 
does not take us to Wadee Halfeh, his contract is 
broken, and it is a question for the consul to decide." 



145 



CHAPTER VII. 

ASOUAN TO WADEE HALFEH AND BACK TO CAIRO. 

NEXT morning we started early, and had a glori- 
ous sail close up under the Cataract. Near 
the southernmost fall we could see Mr. Thomson's 
boat, the Fatirria, and one of the Pashas boats being 
drawn out of the rush of waters. The scenery was 
very grand. Towering fantastical rocks jutted up 
out of the current, and on either side were granite 
cliffs. We got out -and scrambled over sand-hills 
and granite boulders. We seated ourselves on a 
rock, and watched the Pasha's last boat being 
drawn by about a hundred men through the first 
two falls. Ropes were attached to it, and were 
pulled by strings of men on either shore. They 
worked with a will, and therefore did it quickly and 
well. 

A captain stood screaming on the prow, and 
waved his orders to them. Black men swam about 



146 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

in the water, and little boats darted along the 
rapids like so many fishes. At half-past six a crowd 
of Nubians came and tied ropes to our boat, their 
Sheikhs and the Reis of the Cataract came on board. 
The latter was a tall, spare man, in a white gar- 
ment. 

They were a very wild set, shouting, screaming, 
jabbering, gesticulating, and kissing their hands to 
us. Our captain distributed some bread amongst 
them, and then we were drawn up the first rapid, 
and fastened below the rock where Mr. Thomson's 
boat had stuck so long. The rush of waters around 
us, and the strange figures of the Nubians, made the 
scene very exciting. 

" Might we not row about among the rapids in 
the sandal to-morrow ?" asked Edith. 

"If you like, miss, well do it. I'm ready 
to do anything you ask me now" replied Cer- 
tezza. 

A black fellow jumped into the water several 
times, and paddled across with a towing rope in 
his hand. We grazed on a rock in stopping, owing 
to our captain contradicting the Nubian Reis' orders. 
Then four of the Nubians, including the almost 
naked swimmer, came on deck, and were each 
presented with a coloured handkerchief, for which 
they seemed very grateful. Later in the evening we 



THE GOVERNOR. 147 

took a walk to have a view of the whole Cataract. 
We saw some lovely pink granite rocks. Most of 
the boulders are very highly polished by the action 
of the water. 

We remained in the same place all next day, as 
the Nubians had not yet completed their work with 
the Pasha's boats. In the forenoon we had a visit 
from the governor, who came to explain the reason 
of the delay. We had a little conversation with 
him, Certezza interpreting. He was very anxious 
to learn English, as he thought it was a shame for 
one who could read and write to be behind the 
donkey boys of Cairo. He said that a lady had 
once promised him an English and Arabic book, 
but she had never sent it. Certezza suggested that 
her dragoman must have kept it. " English ladies," 
he said, " are not in the habit of breaking their 
word." We promised to supply the deficiency. 
The governor then left, promising to come next 
day and get us quickly up the Cataract. 

We then took a walk to the summit of a pile of 
rocks, from which we could see the temple of 
Philae. The people of a village came running out j 
women with large ear-rings, nose-rings and brass 
frontlets between their eyes, their hair all matted 
and dropping with castor-oil ; little boys without a 
stitch of clothing, all laughing, dancing, and stout- 
ly 



148 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

ing, in the hope of being rewarded with some bak- 
sheesh. They looked very happy. Certezza, who 
never could bear to see a piastre go past his own 
pocket, advised us to give them nothing, as they 
might all spring on us and take our purses by force. 
When he lifted a stone, the nearest ones ran away 
like frightened birds, whilst the furthest ones stood 
and laughed at them. Violet tried to teach one 
English, but all she could get him to say was, " One, 
two, three, baksheesh I" These people speak a 
language quite unintelligible to the Arabs. 

The Marquis's boat came below the first rapid that 
night. After breakfast next day the Nubians collect- 
ed themselves, and the British vice-consul, a Copt> 
came on board. We were towed past some great 
projecting black rocks to the entrance of the first 
" gate," as it is called. The people then left us to 
attend to the " Sophie," and we amused ourselves 
by throwing baksheesh to the boys on shore. 
Whereupon half a dozen of them stripped, dashed 
into the current, and swam down the Cataract, a 
man accompanying them on a log of wood. It was 
very funny to see them bobbing up and down in 
the water like so manj r monkeys, and making frantic 
efforts to catch what we threw to them. The captain 
of the " Sophie " suddenly lost his voice by shouting 
too much. A great squabble took place between the 



THE CATAKACT. 149 

two captains and the Nubians, owing to the Sheikhs 
having neglected to distribute 'the money which had 
been paid to them by the captains at Asouan. It was 
settled by the intervention of the vice-consul, who 
could not speak the language of the nation he re- 
presented. Then a thick rope was attached to our 
bow, and pulled by about fifty men in front ; while 
various other ropes were attached to our boat, and 
wound round the rocks. We were dragged in this 
manner over the first waterfall, past Mr. Thom- 
son's rock, and other dangers. The governor now 
appeared, but contented himself with sitting down 
and watching us. It was very exciting to see the 
crowds of people on shore, the little boats and the 
swimmers dashing through the foaming currents, 

9 

while every islet rock had its complement of men 
to tow or to hold the ropes, as the case required. 
Off we dashed to the foot of the great waterfall ; 
and just as we were in the very centre of the 
current, with the whole force of the water beating 
against us, the holding rope broke ! We swung 
quickly round to one side, the people rushed down 
from the hills, the governor started up and ordered 
the French sandal to be made ready to take us 
away ; but another rope was thrown ashore, and in 
five minutes more our boat was again on the crest 
of the fall. 



150 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Agnes was very angry with herself for having re- 
mained on board, and her fears were by no means 
allayed on seeing Pietro pull off his jacket. 

" I think nothing can make you afraid," said Cer- 
tezza to Violet. 

" No, nothing^ answered she, looking steadily at 
him. " I have a firm trust in Providence." 

We were pulled over some more rocks with many 
a bump, and then made fast for the day. 

Next morning, before we sat down to breakfast, 
crowds of Nubians rushed on board, screaming, 
yelling, and gesticulating in a way that made us 
wonder how Pietro managed to get our provisions 
from the pantry to the saloon table. We ate quiet- 
ly while they were towing us through the various 
rapids, although an occasional bump against the 
rocks rather interfered with our comfort. 

As about sixty men were on board, Certezza ad- 
vised us to stay downstairs, for fear of getting more 
than we bargained for ; but we could see the rush of 
waters and the people jumping about among the 
rocks from our windows. At one time a rope broke, 
and we should have been carried away by the current, 
had not a Nubian jumped quickly in and made it 
fast, without being told to do so. At length we 
stopped below the great fall, where a large body of 
water was sweeping swiftly down, although it is 



philjE. 151 

not considered quite so dangerous as the one we had 
already passed, owing to its having deeper water 
and fewer hidden rocks. It took a long time to 
fasten the ropes, so some of the Sheikhs above in- 
dulged in the filthy habit of spitting down to the 
lower deck. Certezza pursued them with a stick, 
and Ahmed with a wet cloth. 

We mounted on deck to see the great tug, which 
lasted about a quarter of an hour. As soon as we 
were fairly up, a boat of the tuggers came towards 
us, clamouring for more baksheesh. Certezza 
drove them off. Then he advised us to go down- 
stairs, and the wind carried us quickly away from 
the howling people on shore, while the shrieks of 
those still on board mingled with the merry jingle 
of the sailors' tambourine. We stopped at a little 
creek where the Pasha's boats were anchored, dis- 
tributed some money amongst the men, and also 
some coloured handkerchiefs, about which they 
quarrelled. The captain, seizing them from Cer- 
tezza's hand, rushed on shore, but, being hotly pur- 
sued, he pitched them all into the water, the Nu- 
bians rushing in, clothes and all, after them. We 
soon started again, sailing between huge piles of 
granite boulders, with the island of Philae and its 
beautiful temple before us. We were very thank- 
ful to have escaped without accident from the 



152 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

wild waters and wild men into such glorious 
scenery. 

The French gentlemen did not follow our ex- 
ample by remaining in their boat, but contented 
themselves with prudently watching its passage 
from the shore. One of them said to Certezza, 
u Our boat is the fastest on the Nile ; we shall be at 
Wadee Halfeh, you will see, two days before you." 

We stopped for a few hours behind Philae. We 
got out and crossed over heaps of brick ruins to 
the temple, where two Swiss savants were busy 
studying and copying. The temple is of the time 
of the Ptolemies, though part of it is thought to be 
much older. We climbed to the top of the adytum 
by a narrow stair, where is a chamber adorned 
with beautiful sculptures, much defaced by tourists 
having slept in it. The large court has a colonnade 
of wonderful pillars on either side, but, unfortu- 
nately for the symmetry of the building, it has been 
built more in conformity with the shape of the 
island than the rules of mathematics. Three of 
the five obelisks have been removed to Rome, and 
the fourth has been beheaded. We saw an im- 
mense rock, lately uncovered, with an unread in- 
scription on it, supposed to contain the still un- 
known secret of the temple. We also saw what is 
called the " bed of Pharaoh," a large square temple 



KALABSHEE. 153 

ornamented with lofty columns, and with no hiero- 
glyphics on the interior walls, except what might 
have adorned the heads of two bedsteads. There 
is also an old stone altar, with a communication 
underground ; and here is supposed to have stood 
the oracle of Isis. A large stone over the centre 
door of this beautiful temple is broken, and almost 
falling. In the centre of the emblem of eternity 
which decorates it are the marks of shot aimed at it 
by grown-up children on their travels. Others of 
the same class have carved their insignificant names 
all over the ruins. Conspicuous amongst them 
may be read those of Certezza and his sons. 

" How can he profess such a veneration for an- 
tiquities ?" said Edith. " One would think he would 
take better care of that which affords him a liveli- 
hood." 

We remained at Philse only a few hours, and 
then set sail for Kalabshee. Kalabshee is situated 
in very romantic scenery, and is just under the 
tropic. We did not expect to see that famous line 
in the sky, as some travellers do. 

Further south the river was bordered with hills 
and mountains of bright gold-coloured sand, inter- 
spersed with streaks of black granite. Edith com- 
pared them, not very poetically, to custards sprinkled 
with cinnamon. Our Reis firmly believed that the 



154 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Nile comes from heaven, and that no one can dis- 
cover its source. Perhaps the origin of this idea 
may be found in Genesis ii. 13. We were dis- 
turbed one night by frightful screams of " Moham- 
med I Mohammed !" One of our sailors had fallen 
overboard, and was nearly drowned. He was 
picked up half a mile further down. Certezza de- 
clared it was owing to some claret which we had 
given them, after they had stood for some hours in 
the water pushing us off a sandbank. 

We were towed for some time along a bend of 
the river. We had a walk amidst tall lupines, and 
over the yellow sand of the desert. Here we met 
a poor black slave, whose master lived on the 
opposite bank, and scarcely gave him anything to 
eat. The wind became piercingly cold. We 
saw several crocodiles near Ibreein, but they 
dived down whenever they got sight of our 
sail. 

We arrived at Wadee Halfeh on the second of 
February, and next day engaged donkeys to visit 
the Rock of Abooseer. Our way lay for two hours 
over a sandy desert, where we saw the " mirage " 
twice. From the rock we had a commanding view 
of the second Cataract, which is covered with black 
shining rocks like the first, and is much more ex- 
tensive. Here one gets a good idea of what a ride 



RESPITE FOE THE DONKEYS. 155 

to the fifth Cataract must be. An uninviting desert 
of sand extended to the distant horizon, the sight 
of which effectually cured us of the desire to travel 
further south. Certezza cut our names on the 
rock beside those of former travellers. We set off 
for our boat without perceiving that he was not 
with us. It seems that his donkey had lain down 
and refused to move. Our guides could not speak 
a word either of English or Arabic. 

" Violet," said Agnes, " I wish you saw how that 
man is beating your donkey." 

Violet made signs for the man to give her his 
stick. She then shook it before his face, 
saying : 

" How would you like that ?" 

The boys laughed heartily, and the donkeys en- 
joyed a respite. Certezza had to walk back over 
the deep sand, and was confined to bed all next 
day, in consequence of the fatigue. We had lived 
principally on pigeons, the spoil of his gun, for 
the last ten days, he saying that there was no 
other food to be procured in these inhospitable 
regions. 

" The Prince of Wales' visit makes everything so 
dear on the Nile," said he. " There is very little 
soil here for growing anything. That is why 
I cannot give you vegetables. You see all the 



156 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

so il there is has been collected by the people from 
the bed of the river, and will be washed away in 
the next inundation." 

" Oh I" said Agnes, " does not that explain what 
Isaiah means by describing the Ethiopians as a 
nation whose land the rivers have spoiled. But I 
suppose the Nile did inundate the country before the 
giving way of the granite barrier at Silsilli, which 
transferred the first Cataract to Asouan." 

" It did," said Violet. " Traces of an alluvial 
deposit have been noticed by Wilkinson amongst 
the sands of Nubia. Ethiopia was once a rich and 
powerful country, whose inhabitants at one time 
conquered Egypt, and placed their kings on her 
throne. But by this catastrophe it was transformed 
into a wildderness of sand. I fancy that the 
third chapter of Habbakuk may refer to the cir- 
cumstance. It seems to me that the prophet, fore- 
seeing a famine coming on his own land, refers in 
his lamentation to the judgments of the Lord on 
other nations. What more appropriate picture of 
the giving way of the rocks, and of the rush of the 
water into a new channel, than the words of the 
sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, and tenth verses? 
They would thus be more a relation of past events 
than a prophecy. The eleventh verse seems to refer 
to the conquests of Joshua, and the fifteenth verse 



TEMPLE OF ABU-SIMBEL. 157 

to the destruction of Pharaoh's army in the Red 
Sea. In the seventeenth verse he seems to say, 
' Though similar judgments should come on Israel 
as came on Ethiopia, Philistia, and Egypt, by which 
the history of nations was changed ; yet my trust 
shall be in the Lord, who has done it all.' " 

Next morning we passed the Sophie very early 
on its way up. Agnes clambered up a very steep 
precipice, to the small excavated Temple of Ferayg, 
on the roof of which is a portrait, supposed by the 
Copts to be a likeness of our Saviour. We arrived 
at Abu-Simbel in the afternoon. 

The great temple of Abu-Simbel is half closed 
up by the sand, which falls over the precipice from 
the desert above. This could easily be prevented 
by the erection of a wall on the summit of the 
rocks. It had been completely cleared a fortnight 
previously by three hundred workers for the Prin- 
cess of Wales' benefit, but was again half full. The 
design of the exterior is extremely grand. It dis- 
plays four colossal seated statues of Remeses II., 
each of which is sixty-six feet high without the pe- 
destal. The faces have an agreeable, soft expres- 
sion; but unfortunately one colossus is nearly 
destroyed, and the other three are much mutilated 
and half buried. The head of one peeped above 
the sand like that of a bather above water. On 



158 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

the very centre of one breast might be read the 
name " Certezza." 

u Oh V 9 said Violet, " I can realize the picture 
Dr. Oppel draws of an Englishman sitting on the 
thumb of the great Renieses." 

"And I," said Edith, "am ashamed to have 
gazed on the models of these statues which stood 
in the Palace at Sydenham before the part con- 
taining them was burnt, and to have had so 
little idea of what they were. I always called 
them Hindoo idols." 

These, as well as the temple, are cut out of the 
solid rock. 

The grand hall is magnificent, though darkened 
by the sand which chokes up its entrance. It has 
eight of the pillars named " Osiride," square blocks 
with standing colossi in front, whose faces are similar 
to those on the outside. Certezza told us that be- 
neath are chambers of equal height, which are 
entered by long flights of stairs. The second hall 
has four square pillars, and beyond it is the adytum, 
with an altar in the centre, and the seated statues 
of four gods at the upper end. 

A fire was lighted on the altar. It produced an 
effect on the imagination which recalled the days 
when it was used for offerings. 

We examined the side walls, and some long dark 



MAGNIFICENT OBELISKS. 159 

mummy chambers, all plentifully sculptured with 
battle scenes and wholesale executions. A gigantic 
warrior is sometimes represented holding in his 
left hand a bunch of human heads by the hair. 
The proprietors of these heads are stretching out 
their hands on all sides in an imploring attitude. 
His other hand holds an axe. When the ancient 
Egyptians wished to express in sculpture how im- 
portant any personage was, they made his figure 
ten times larger than the surrounding figures. 
Their statues are wanting in that grace which dis- 
tinguishes the productions of Grecian art, yet what an 
amount of ingenuity and manual labour is implied in 
their existence ! These magnificent obelisks, a pair 
of which stood sentinel before the doorway of each 
temple, must have been transported from Asouan to 
the positions they now occupy ; sometimes a dis- 
tance of seven hundred miles, by means which 
modern science cannot even discover. Little granite 
exists in Egypt north of the first Cataract. And 
what a grand conception it was to hollow such a 
magnificent temple out of the very bosom of the 
everlasting hills I 

In the smaller temple we met Mr. Thomson. 

"Is it not a shame," said he, "to see these 
sculptures so much defaced ? I have been twice on 
the Nile, but never did I write my name anywhere, 



160 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

until I did so yesterday, on the Rock of Abooseer. 
I think the man ought to be ashamed of himself 
who does so." 

This was meant for a reproof to Certezza, 
who had left his mark distinctly on all the monu- 
ments. 

Mr. Thomson turned away. Certezza, foaming 
with rage, muttered, 

" Stupido. Tis a good thing everybody has not 
the same taste I" 

Pietro had been that morning discovered early 
by Mrs. Thomson, endeavouring with a box of 
white paint to leave some memento of his first visit 
to Abu-Simbel. 

Mr. Thomson's sailors had a frightful quarrel. 
They threatened to beat their captain ; but Certezza 
informed us that he had pacified them. 

The town of Ibreem is situated on the top of a 
barren hill, whose precipitous sides rise majestically 
from the water. It looks like a crown on the brow 
of a monarch of stone. 

The ruins of Sabooa gave us a good idea of what 
the approach to an old temple must have been. 
You pass along an avenue of mutilated sphinxes, 
(the lion's body with a human face), then between 
two obelisks, and enter the doorway flanked by 
two massive pylons or towers. These pylons have, 



REMESES. 161 

on the exterior, a singularly bald effect ; but the 
interior contains magnificent colonnades. The 
sculptures on the pylons of Sabooa are similar to 
those of Abu-Simbel. They represent Remeses II. 

" How strange it is to think that these stones 
were laid on each other in the days of Moses I" said 
Violet. 

" Yes," answered Agnes. u I am the more con- 
vinced that Moses lived in the reign of this monarch, 
from the fact of one of the treasure cities which 
the Israelites built being called Ramses." 

" And if Pthahmen and the princes of his house 
perished in the Red Sea," said Edith, " how natural 
that a queen should succeed him ! Some great cala- 
mity must have befallen Egypt about that period, 
for later sculptures are all considered to be pro- 
ductions of a degenerate age." 

" We shall see some mementoes of the conquests 
of Remeses near Nahr-el-Kelb, at Beyrout," said 
Agnes. " Perhaps you are not aware that he gets 
the credit of having been the first monarch who 
launched vessels of war, and even of having anti- 
cipated M. de Lesseps by trying to make a canal 
through the Isthmus of Suez." 

"Then," said Violet, "Byron was mistaken 
when he sung that in the isles of Greece 'grew 
the arts of war and peace.' Yet Egypt, being so 

M 



162 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

much isolated from the rest of the world by her 
sandy deserts, could not be expected to influence 
other nations much by her peculiar culture. How 
strange that so high a civilization should be so com- 
pletely a thing of the past ! The first nation of an- 
tiquity is the very lowest of modern times." 

Near Sabooa we saw some fine specimens of Nu- 
bian women. The Nubians have no characteristic 
of African descent about them. They are of a 
deep bronze colour, have regular features, and are 
of symmetrical stature. It has even been thought 
that very decided Roman lineaments may be traced 
amongst the natives of Asouan. Little children 
wear no clothes, young unmarried girls have no 
other dress than a long girdle of twisted thongs 
adorned with shells. We wished much to take 



home some of these things as curiosities, but Cer- 
tezza could not be induced to buy them. " How 
you get rid of the castor-oil ?" said he. 

I well remember a woman who came one morning 
to our boat with eggs for sale. Her dress was tied 
round her waist, and passed over the left shoulder, 
leaving the right shoulder and arm bare. Her 
complexion was of a brownish black. Her arms 
were ornamented with bracelets, and her neck with 
strings of various coloured beads. The coiffure 
was, however, the most worthy of attention. Her 



TEMPLE OF DARKER. 163 

hair hung a short way on her neck, but was cut 
short and drooped over her forehead with a little 
plait in front, exactly as some ladies in London 
wear it. The whole was glittering and dripping 
with castor-oil, of which it appeared to get a bottle- 
full every day, and which made her skin shine like 
polished rose-wood. 

At Dakkeh we were beset by women and child- 
ren offering trifles for sale. Their hair was drip- 
ping, their naked shoulders and arms were green 
with castor-oil, which perfumed the air around. 

" I hope," said Edith, " that the Princess will not 
introduce any fashions from the Second Cataract." 

Passing through the village, we saw a young wo- 
man making bread. She had a stone with a hollow 
trough in the centre filled with moistened dora. 
This she pounded with a rough stone to a dough ; 
and as it fell over the edge of the trough, it 
was bread, made and ready to be eaten. It was 
sweetened, no doubt, by the oily drops from her 
hair. 

What most amazed us in the temple of Dakkeh 
were the stones of its roof. They are laid across 
the walls like so many beams of wood. They 
measure sixteen feet in breadth, and two in thick- 
ness, and the marks of the tools used on them are 
wonderful. There was a tremendous crowd of 

m 2 



164 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

villagers outside. We threw them some handfuls of 
baksheesh, for which favour they accompanied us to 
the boat. A queer procession they were ! Naked 
boys and girls, and handsome women, all ornament- 
ed with nose-rings, strings of beads, and other 
pieces of African finery. 

" If I had only some of these people in London," 
said Certezza, " what a fortune I should make by 
exhibiting them !" 

" I know now where the monks got the idea of 
their costume," said Violet. 

" And our ministers their gowns and surplices," 
said Edith. "There is a very gracefully worn 
Roman toga." 

k " Last night," said Certezza, " I had a visit from 
a Nubian who speaks French beautifully. He has 
been twice to Paris with a family, but prefers the 
habits of his own people." 

The temple of Gerf Hossayn, though of the Re- 
mesian age, bears the same relation to other tem- 
ples that a daub does to a fine painting. That of 
Kalabshee is now an immense heap of disjointed 
stones. 

But the small excavated temple at the Beyt-el- 
Wellee is extremely interesting. The exquisite 
bas-reliefs are still perfect ; casts of them are in the 
British Museum. Edith pointed out three baskets 



RUINS OF TAFA. 165 

of bread on the top of each other, illustrative of the 
chief baker s dream. 

After leaving Kalabshee we passed through a 
very narrow, rock-bound channel called El Bab. 
Here the scenery became very picturesque. The 
hills were composed of granite boulders, similar to 
those around Philae. The ruins of Tafa consist 
only of the vestiges of a large temple, and two 
small enclosures, one adorned with four, the other 
with six, Corinthian columns. The latter seemed 
to be used for keeping cattle, and the odour was too 
oppressive to allow of our examining it. The peo- 
ple were remarkably dirty and degraded. We 
could scarcely believe that their ancestors were once 
Christians. 

The view above Tafa is exquisite. High, black, 
rocky peaks slope sheer down to the edge of the 
river, which is here very narrow. We had a glo- 
rious sunset. A bright golden red sky gleamed 
through the feathery palms, and threw a calm glow 
on the limpid water, contrasting strikingly with its 
sombre margin; while our boat rocked like a 
cradle to the swing of the oars as they splashed on 
either side, making one experience sensations rare 
enough in this prosy world. 

We were detained two nights by the wind at 
Dabod, whose temple is too much destroyed to be 



166 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

worth visiting. The inhabitants were very rude, 
and made a fearful clamouring for baksheesh. A 
jackal came on board, and killed two of our 
chickens. 

We found on awaking one morning that we were 
below Philae. Violet proposed to revisit it, but 
Certezza would not agree to stop, as the Nubians 
had come to take us down the Cataract. Violet 
wished to descend in the dahabieh, Edith to ride 
on camels to Asouan, and Agnes to sit on the 
rocks while the boat descended, and afterwards 
to proceed in the sandal. After some discussion 
the last of the three plans was adopted. After a 
hurried breakfast we got into the small boat, and 
were rowed to a high bank overlooking the great 
gate of the Cataract, which is only used to take 
boats down, and is altogether different from the 
place where they are drawn up. It is a powerful 
rush of water of considerable length, in a narrow, 
rocky channel. At length the dahabieh appeared 
with its three flags flying, and a number of Nubians 
on the prow. It was a very pretty sight to see it 
dart into the boiling current with the swiftness of 
an arrow, and, after swaying to and fro several 
times, and once almost dashing against the rocks, 
arrive at the end of the rapid, where the white 
waves dashed over it. and then tossed it into 



PRINCE OF WALES ON THE NILE. 167 

smoother water. There the dip of the oars an- 
nounced, much to our satisfaction, that it was again 
completely under human control. The scene was 
made all the more impressive by the solemn still- 
ness that reigned around. Not a creature besides 
ourselves witnessed it. The Reis of the Cataract 
claimed our captain's turban as his perquisite. He 
wore two turbans with great dignity, while Ali 
Shut the Door sat with discrowned temples on his 
own deck. 

The sandal was soon sent below the rapid to take 
us down. As the Nubians rowed they chanted in 
a sort of low recitative, quite different from Arab 
singing. They informed us that the Prince of 
Wales had been six days on the Nile (a sign of the 
Queen's being still on the throne), that his party 
consumed daily a hundred sheep, six calves, five 
hundred eggs, and a hundred gallons of milk. On 
our remarking that the Princess could scarcely have 
so large an appetite, they replied that they had 
eight hundred soldiers with them. 

We remained five days at Asouan, in the hope of 
seeing the Royal party arrive. Certezza occupied 
his time preparing an illumination, and going about 
in the sandal (which was seldom at our disposal), to 
visit the other boats. Amongst others he visited, 
the lady whom he had formerly maligned so much, 



168 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

making some trifling pretext serve as an excuse 
for doing so. He had discovered an egg in the 
grass which one of her hens had laid. He also 
stated that a gentleman had entrusted him with a 
hundred pounds to buy lace at Malta, and that 
many parties came to ask him to settle disputes 
amongst their sailors. 

We at length became tired of waiting, and were 
detained, either by contrary wind or Certezza's 
perverseness, half a mile above Silsilli, where the 
Prince's steamer had run on a sand-bank. Certezza 
bought some milk from a woman that day. She 
was crying bitterly, he said, because all she had 
was three old cows and two young ones, and the 
governor had taken the two young ones for the 
Prince's use, or his own. She would soon have no- 
thing to turn the water-wheel on which she de- 
pended. She had lost a son in Ibrahim Pasha's 
army, and another was a soldier at Cairo. 

Early next morning the Royal dahabiehs passed 
us. The first one was towed by a handsome white 
steamer. No one was stirring on deck. Certezza 
fired two pistol shots, whereupon the curtain of one 
of the windows was lifted, and then dropped. Next 
came a steamer fitted up as a kitchen, on the deck 
of which we could see a cook busy preparing 
breakfast. We wondered if the Prince ever asked 



QUIET SAILORS. 169 

what his breakfast cost ! Half an hour later the 
white steamer came paddling down, having proba- 
bly found the water too shallow, and a black substi- 
tute came rushing up in hot haste. 

After passing Esneh, Certezza had a fearful 
quarrel with the captain and crew. He stormed 
like a trooper, whilst the captain behaved with 
quiet dignity. We could understand little, but 
heard the captain say something about Mustafa 
Agha. 

"Musta-a-a-pha A-a-a-gha," replied Certezza scorn- 
fully 

Violet said to the steersman, " Esmoo-ay ? " — 
" What does it mean ? " • 

He pulled off his turban and tarboosh, as if to 
say, " He would take even the clothes from us." 

Edith asked Certezza why we had not stopped 
at Esneh for the sailors to bake their bread. He 
answered, " that his contract only specified for two 
bakings." 

"But that is very cruel," said Edith. "The 
bread they baked six weeks ago is quite mouldy. 
Besides, you had no business to tell them it was we 
who would not allow it." 

"Why are the sailors so quiet ?" asked Violet. 
" I never hear them speak to each other." 

" Oh ! miss, it's because they've nothing to talk 



170 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

about. They can't speak about their homes, and 
they know of nothing else." 

"Why do you use so many Italian words in 
speaking to them ?" asked Edith. " Does Arabic 
resemble Italian ?" 

"No, miss, but the Arab is a very poor language. 
So, if there's a thing for which they haven't a word 
they give it an Italian name." 

The fact was that Certezza had prohibited the 
sailors from talking, and that he was not sufficient- 
ly acquainted with Arabic to speak it fluently. It 
is considered a very rich language. 

We witnessed a magnificent sunset. The western 
sky was a mass of bright crimson and pale yellow, 
while in the east the river ran away into darkness 
behind the gloomy hills of Thebes. The beautiful 
reflections of celestial colours in the water, the 
solemn stillness all around, and our little bark 
gliding softly down the rippling stream, alL showed 
how calm Nature is when we are left to lonely 
communion with her. 

We reached Luxor at noon next day. Certezza 
said at breakfast-time, 

" You would hear that the captain and I had 
a quarrel yesterday. He is angry because he has 
seen you giving baksheesh to the sailors, and none 
to him." 



GIGANTIC COLUMNS. 171 

" But we treat the captain like a gentleman," 
said Violet. " We intend giving him something at 
the end." 

" Yes, I told him so ; I said, i You'll be cured of 
your illness when we get to Cairo.' " 

Agnes thought it strange that the captain 
should have referred to Mustapha Agha about our 
baksheesh. • 

We received an invitation from another party 
to witness some Bengal lights and fireworks amongst 
the ruins of Karnak. We set off at six o'clock, and 
had a delightful ride on donkeys in the clear moon- 
light, which is much more powerful in Egypt than 
elsewhere, owing to the dryness of the air. Cer- 
tezza alarmed us twice by falling off his donkey 
head foremost. Whilst we were yielding to the 
influence of the inexpressible charm thrown over 
us from above, we suddenly became aware that a 
row of broken sphinxes was looming darkly at us 
from either side ; and soon after we were passing 
under the gateway of a fearfully lofty pylon, and 
amongst gigantic pillars, betwixt which the moon- 
beams streamed with bluish light. The rough 
stones not allowing of our passage here, we walked 
to another temple, and were at once lost in admir- 
ation as the gigantic columns towered around us 
like a perfect forest of stone. Some of the stones 



172 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

laid across the top are forty feet long, and look 
nothing in comparison with their massive supports. 
In one place a monster column had fallen against 
its neighbour. The massive entablature hung sus- 
pended in a most peculiar position. 

We found a merry party of friendly Americans 
seated round a tea-carpet, spread on ' the ground, 
Giacomo, their dragoman, superintending the ar- 
rangements. We partook of a cup with them, with 
Mustapha Agha, and with the Sheikh Abdallah, 
while Arabs stood round as candlesticks, and then 
rose to witness the pyi^technic displays. Bengal 
lights and Roman candles were lit in the distant 
adytum, near the obelisks, and amongst the pil- 
lars, and by their rosy light we were enabled to 
examine the deeply-cut hieroglyphics (two inches in- 
to the stone). Rockets fizzed up in serpent-like 
streams, much to the delight of the Arabs, and the 
profound astonishment of the numerous donkeys. 
The moon was, after all, the best firework, and 
verified the statement of Violet's donkey boy, that 
" Karnak is most magneeficent by moonlight." The 
loquacious urchins taught us Arabic as we returned 
to Luxor. 

Next morning we crossed the river, and rode on 
donkeys to Thebes. In front of the bare hills, on 
which never yet a blade of grass grew, stretches a 



4 
i 



TOMBS OF THE KINGS 173 

wide green plain, the principal ornaments of which 
are the two colossal statues of Memnon. 

"This quite takes away ray breath," said Agnes. 
" What must have been the grandeur of a city 
before which statues such as these stood I" 

" Bish-wesh !" shouted Certezza, who wished us 
to ride slowly, as he was a very heavy burden for 
his donkey. 

" Sugh, sugh," said we, and galloped off. 

We had a two hours' journey up a narrow valley, 
bordered with bare hills, to the tombs of the Kings. 
The tomb discovered by 'Belzoni astonished us 
greatly. It is the burial-place of Sethi, father of 
Remeses II. In his reign, or that of his successor, 
Moses was born. Never before did we realize what 
a sublime courage must have been required to lead 
the Israelites out of Egypt. It was no paltry king- 
dom which the plagues humiliated. We went from 
one superb excavated hall to another, by very 
broken flights of stone steps, and by the aid of 
lighted candles examined the beautifully coloured 
sculptures and hieroglyphics. Serpents of immense 
length with four feet, men with ducks' heads — the 
very thought of them puzzles my memory ! We 
saw prisoners beheaded, captives with hands tied, 
and men with Ethiopian, African, and Hebrew fea- 
tures. We saw the spot where Belzoni found the 



174 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

sarcophagus of pure alabaster, which Certezza said 
was now used as a bath by the Emperor of Russia, 
although Edith fancied it might be in the British 
Museum. They say he saw a light burning inside 
it, which went out immediately on the admission of 
the air. Certezza told us that our guide's father 
had died under the stick at Sioot. He was witness 
in some case, and was required to confess what he 
didn't know. The sad expression of the poor mans 
eyes, as Certezza told us this, I shall never forget. 

" If the Viceroy would only expend in educating 
his own subjects what he does in entertaining 
strangers, Egypt might yet be a great country," said 
Violet. 

" And proper regulations might turn the banks 
of the Nile into the finest museum in the world," 
said Edith, " instead of its spoils being the boast 
of European cities. But the Bible says, i Egypt 
shall be the basest of kingdoms.' So I fear it will 
never rise." 

The sun was very hot as we rode back, and we 
twice appreciated the force of the text, " As the 
shadow of a great rock in a weary land." We 
crossed the old bed of the Nile, now dry. " I will 
dry up thy rivers," 

In the afternoon we visited the temple of Luxor. 
Certezza said that the consul required him, for the 



TEMPLE OF LUXOR. 175 

purpose of settling some other people's disputes ; 
but we did not see why their interests should always 
be preferred to ours. As we approached, Musta- 
pha Agha came up and said, 

" Certezza, I want you." 

"Ill come in an hour," said Certezza. 

Our Reis was sitting in front of the consul's house, 
so Edith fancied that it was his dispute with Cer- 
tezza that had to be settled, in place of Mr. 
Thomson's, or an American's, as was pretended. 

The temple of Luxor was begun by Amunoph 
III., and finished by Remeses II. Its gigantic 
pillars are half buried, half crowded with Arab 
hovels. Mustapha Agha's house is built amongst 
them, and M. Mariette's, then rented by Lady Duff 
Gordon, is actually on the top of a corner. In 
front of the temple, towards Karnak, are seen the 
tops of four gigantic colossi peeping out of the sand; 
also the English obelisk, which was quite cleared 
for the benefit'of the " Pasha Ingleez," as the Arabs 
term our Prince. How much is here to repay the 
trouble of excavating ! 

Certezza spoke much against Mustapha Agha, 
probably to prevent our conversing with him. His 
house contains the only post-office south of Minieh. 
The box containing the letters is open for every 
one's inspection, and sorely indeed were we tempted 



176 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

to help ourselves to newspapers addressed to an- 
other party. As Mustapha cannot read, letters for 
himself have been known to lie unopened for 
weeks. We had paid fourteen shillings for a single 
postage stamp at Asouan. 

Next day we again crossed the river, mounted 
our donkeys, and rode to the temple of old Koor- 
neh. It is of the time of Remeses II., and of very 
elegant architecture. A long ride brought us to 
the Remeseuru, a temple palace of the same mon- 
arch. We were lost in admiration of its Osiride 
pillars, and above all of that trunk of a statue, 
the largest ever made by human hands, of red 
syenite, which is said to have weighed 887 tons. 
The head is now the property of Lord Dufferin, and 
lies amongst other mutilated fragments awaiting 
removal. The shoulders have each a row of hiero- 
glyphics extending down either arm. The whole 
temple is of the golden age of Egyptian art. 

We next visited the great temple of Medeenet 
Haboo, the most perfect part of which is a great 
hall, with four immense round pillars on two sides, 
and four Osiride ones on the other two. It was 
once turned into a Christian church, the slim Greek 
pillars of which lie scattered about the centre, form- 
ing a strange contrast to the massive proportions of 
those supporting the original building. We were 



TOMBS AT THEBES. 177 

astonished at the cutting of the hieroglyphics, about 
six inches deep into the stone. 

Whilst riding back we passed the two colossi, 
and rested under the shadow of Memnon, then 
vocal with little birds, whilst our donkeys enjoyed 
a few mouthfuls of ceci, as Certezza named a sweet 
green pea. The speaking Memnon is of a solid 
block. Its companion was built. Both measure 
eighteen feet across the shoulders. Each arm is 
thirty-three feet long. 

We rose at five next morning to visit the private 
tombs at Thebes. We saw a splendid moonset, the 
moon shining through fleecy clouds like a Turkish 
beauty veiled in silver gauze. We clambered up the 
rocks to No. 15, where the colouring is still brilliant. 
In No. 16 the sculptures had been recently much 
defaced. They represent the king being ushered into 
the presence of Osiris, his final judgment, his funeral, 
the boat containing his mummy, dancing women and 
wailing women in long procession. The floor was 
strewn with bits of mummies, and we had a fine 
view from the top of the hill. 

We had a glass of sherbet at Mustapha 
Agha's in the afternoon, and re-visited the Tem- 
ple of Luxor. Many an English nobleman might 
' envy the portal of an Arab hovel we saw. Then 
we called on Mrs. Thomson. Her party were 

N 



1 78 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

very indignant at Certezza's treatment of us. 

" Do you know," said one young lady, " that we 
have a much more liberal table than you, although 
we pay less, and your boat is an old cargo boat, 
that has no business to be used as a dahabieh at all. 
That is why it is so full of rats." 

"Certezza says our cook gets eight pounds a 
month." 

" Nonsense ! He only gets four pounds; he's an 
old barber. You know now why he wants to keep 
you from seeing any one." 

"We suspected it," said Violet. "I am very 
glad I did not agree to our anchoring over at 
Thebes." 

" How ridiculous ! Did Certezza propose 
that?" 

Next morning we found ourselves opposite Kar- 
nak. What a confusion of broken obelisks, pros- 
trate colossi, and disfigured statues are here ! The 
sculptures on the adytum are particularly exquisite ; 
but whilst Agnes was admiring them, she had to 
prevent Pietro from cutting his name over the 
finest hieroglyphics. 

" I wish," said Edith, " that Baedeker would 
visit the Nile. His minute observations might 
effect a revolution." 

"And I," said Agnes, "would like Murray to 



DONKEY RIDING. 179 

give us a plan of each temple, with a list of what 
the courts and sculptures are, located with appro- 
priate signs to their proper places. I have no com- 
pass to tell what Wilkinson means by the N. E. 
corner, the S. W. angle, &c. The Nile winds so 
much that one cannot calculate our direction by 
it" 

Our next halting place was Keneh, where the 
sailors baked their bread. At Dendera we searched 
in vain for the cartouche and portrait of Cleopatra. 
At Bellianeh we mounted donkeys for the purpose 
of visiting Abydus. Certezza had refused to use our 
beautiful little saddles, and had charged us three 
pounds for the use of some old pieces of leather, which 
were always cracking and breaking. The one Vio- 
let rode at Thebes had scarcely any girth. Bridles 
were totally unknown. They were sometimes 
manufactured by tying a rope round the animal's 
nose ; whilst in Nubia we adopted the native plan 
of guiding it by laying a stick against the side of its 
head. They were accustomed to deposit their bur- 
dens on the ground when their master was not 
looking; and we experienced much discomfort 
from their attempts to treat us in the same way. 
But few donkeys could carry Certezza. Four fell 
under him before we left Bellianeh. We were 
surrounded by a troop of donkeys and boys, push- 

n2 



u 



180 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

ing and screaming. Edith got rid of them by pro- 
mising a few piastres to the strongest-looking boy, 
if he could manage to keep the others away. We 
crossed over fields of wheat nearly ripe, and beans, 
where we saw the shadoof being worked at some 
distance from the river. Fierce dogs rushed out 
barking from every village as we passed. 

The temple of Abydus has been lately excavated 
by M. Mariette. Its exquisite coloured sculptures 
were in almost perfect preservation ; and were more 
interesting and life-like than anything we had yet 
seen. They are of the time of Sethi and Remeses 
II., and give a good idea of the simple and lofty 
conceptions of early Egyptian mythology. The 
male figures are coloured red; the female pale 
yellow. The latter are clothed in a very narrow 
white garment. Isis and Hathar are depicted as 
presenting the crown to a king. There is here a 
list of the early sovereigns, very interesting to histo- 
rians. When we left Abydus the sky was very dark, 
and a few drops of rain fell. Soon we could not see 
our path, and we reached the boat with difficulty 
after an hour s walk over the deep sand. 

Shortly after leaving Minieh we saw two men 
swimming in the water like monkeys. They came 
below our cabin windows shouting, " Ana Christian, 
ya Hawagee ! Ana Christian, ya Hawagee ! " We 



REMAINS OF MEMPHIS. 181 

bestowed a few piastres on them. What was our sur- 
prise to learn that these swimming beggars were the . 
monks of a Coptic convent which crowns a hill over- 
looking the river ! It is called Gabel e' Tayr, and is 
said to have been the residence of the Virgin Mary 
while she was in Egypt. Here the birds of the 
country are supposed to assemble once a year, and 
leave one of their number as sentinel, while they 
fly into the interior. 

For the next few days the sirocco blew the sand 
in all directions. We anchored one night close to 
a cargo boat filled with slave boys, who had been 
entrapped in the Soudan, and were on their way to 
be sold in Cairo. Certezza was asked if he wished 
to buy one. These slavers seldom anchor close to 
other boats, but when it is growing dark they oc- 
casionally stop near a sand-bank, to let the slaves 
have a run. Certezza said that when they got to 
Cairo, they would be put into carriages, and driven 
about to different merchants. This is done to ap- 
pear as if they were some " hareem," as the slave 
trade is now illegal. 

We visited the remains of Memphis. We drove 
through a well-cultivated country to the colossus of 
Remeses II. It is thirty-four feet long, and lies on 
the ground, with one side of the face downwards, 
so that the lips literally bite the dust. We then 



1 82 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

wandered over shapeless ruins, until we reached 
the Pyramid of Abooseer. 

This pyramid is built of stones, and from its base 
we had a good view of the desert. Egypt, south 
of the Delta, is a vast expanse of dreary sand ; 
with one broad green strip running through it from 
north to south. This strip is in some parts only a 
few miles broad, and in Nubia its breadth is next 
to nothing. 

At length we reached an opening, and entered a 
long underground passage, like a vast catacomb. 
This was the Apis cemetery. At the entrance is an 
immense porphyry sarcophagus, which seems • to 
have been suddenly stopped on its way to the in- 
terior. Another monster sarcophagus blocks the 
passage a little further on ; it had apparently been 
too large to pass the entrance of the next passage. 
But how was it brought in? All through the 
catacomb, on either side, are immense niches, once 
covered with marble, and in each niche is a por- 
phyry sarcophagus, about twenty-four feet long, 
twelve broad, and twelve high; being eight feet 
for the box, and four for the lid. Such was the 
last abode of a sacred bull 1 

We next visited the Serapeum, a small white 
temple lately excavated by M. Mariette, where the 
sculptures are of exquisite workmanship. They 



THE TAMBOURINE. 183 

are not on such a grand scale as those of Abydus, but 
are more illustrative of working life. You see men 
ploughing and gathering corn, building boats and 
rowing them ; women with water-jugs on their 
heads ; men cutting off the legs of living oxen, 
carrying the said legs on their shoulders ; milking 
cows, beating donkeys, &c. &c. 

We had lunch under the only part which boasts 
a roof. Just as we had finished it, Certezza 
came in, and said, in a hurried manner, 

" There are strangers ! Mr. R ." 

He looked very angry because Violet did not at 
once rise from her carpet. She quietly took 
another orange, peeled it slowly, and said, 

"Agnes, when you have finished looking at those 
sculptures, I am ready to go." 

Agnes continued her occupation for another half 

hour ; Certezza looked savage, but Mr. R never 

disturbed us. We rode back to our boat under a 
broiling sun. 

We rose early next day to visit the Pyramids, but 
were offered such wretched donkeys, that Edith 
declared it would be a sin to ride on them, and we 
gave orders to proceed at once to Boulak. There 
had been a discussion the previous evening in regard 
to a tambourine which we had purchased for the 
sailors. Edith had remarked that it was kept in 



1 



184 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Certezza's cabin, and that Ahmed, his favourite 
sailor, whom he called his second waiter, handed it 
round for each sailor to play by turns. She 
suspected that Certezza meant to keep it to him- 
self. 

" Certezza, " said Agnes during dinner, " which 
of the sailors is to keep the tambourine ?" 

" They all play on it, miss." 

"I know that; but it can't be cut in pieces 
and divided amongst them. You should give 
it to the man who has held the sail." 

When we arrived at Boulak, Violet ascended to 
the upper deck to distribute the baksheesh. That 
ceremony being finished, "Now, Certezza, bring 
me the tambourine," said Agnes. 

Certezza directed Ahmed to produce an immense 
drum. 

" No, Certezza, you know it isn't that." 

" Is this what you want ?" asked Certezza, while 
Ahmed held up a broken goolleh, whose mouth was 
covered with parchment. 

" No ; I want the tambourine." 

" What do you call it in Italian ? I never heard 
the word tambourine before." 

" The thing with jingling bells all round 



•- I'- 



After the production of several trifles, the tarn- 



shepherd's hotel. 185 

bourine made its appearance, and Agnes presented 
it to the best sailor, who seemed much delighted 
with his acquisition. 

We were two days before our time, but were 
delighted to escape out of the boat. Certezza was 
very anxious that we should proceed straight to the 
railway station, and not go to Shepherd's. 

Our poor sailors were very sorry to part from 
us. The Reis had just lost his thirteenth and only 
living child, and though our expressions of sym- 
pathy were mute, they were none the less real. 
They all stood round our carriage and gazed with 
sad eyes as we drove off. 

The active manager of Shepherd's was much 
amazed when Certezza said, 

" You must give these ladies your best rooms, 
or else they won't stay. They're very particular." 

"That is strange," said Mr. G . "I had 

these ladies here three months ago, and did not find 
them so troublesome." 

How pleased we were to see European faces 
again, and to converse without being overheard — 
above all the delight of being free 1 We profited 
by Certezza's absence, whilst he was arranging for 
the conveyance of his boxes, to call on some friends 
in the Esbekieh. 

u I know a cure for a bad dragoman," said a 



186 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

lady. "An American gentleman discovered it. 
He found he had engaged a great rascal, so at the 
next town he called on the governor, and told him 
of the dragoman's conduct. ' What do you think 
he deserves ?' he asked. * Why, the stick/ replied 
the governor. i I think he deserves fifty sticks.' 
So the dragoman was condemned to receive this 
punishment. When he had received twenty-five, 
the gentleman said, ' Now that will do. You sign 
me a receipt that he has got twenty- five, but de- 
serves fifty, and whenever I take it into my head I 
can stop at the nearest town and give him the re- 
mainder.' The dragoman proved the best on the 
Nile that season." 

" I didn't know you could do that to a drago- 
man," said Violet. " Some of our friends had their 
mutinous sailors whipped at Thebes. But I fear 
Certezza is not amenable to such summary law, 
being a British subject." 

We went straight from their house to the con- 
sulate, meeting Certezza on the road. The consul 
was not at home, but we arranged for an interview 
with him on Monday. 

We were agreeably surprised at the table d'hote 
to meet with the Stuarts and other friends, who 
we imagined might then have been on their way to 
America. 



COMPLAINTS AGAINST CERTEZZA. 187 

" How did you get on with Certezza ?" was the 
first question. 

" Oh 1 worse than ever ! We have been to the 
consulate." 

" The other dragomans and captains all say that 
your captain was very angry at having to stay at 
Edfoo. He had some pride in his boat, and would 
have liked to see it first up the Cataract." 

Next day it was a great pleasure to attend the 
American mission church. We arranged with one 
of the missionaries to have a Bible sent to the 
Governor of Asouan. 

On Monday we called on the consul, who ad- 
vised us by all means to break our contract with 
Certezza for Syria, as it would be very dangerous 
to travel there with a man in whom we had no 
confidence. We had written out the principal 
grounds of our complaint, which were as fol- 
lows : — 

That Certezza failed to fulfil his contract, be- 
cause, 

1. It was not a first-class dahabieh he pro- 
vided. 

2. It was not clean and orderly, being infested 
with rats. 

3. That the upper deck was only once washed 
during the voyage, and the lower deck seldom. 



188 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

4. That he detained us at Edfoo on false pre- 
tences, whereby we were detained twelve days from 
going up the Cataract. 

The Consul promised to send for Certezza, and 
give him a scolding. 

On Wednesday we had a visit from one of the 
agents of the consulate.. He said that Certezza had 
brought a great deal of evidence in his own defence. 
He acknowledged that the boat was second-class, and 
the Reis testified the same on oath, but Certezza 
thought it was good enough for ladies, and argued 
that we accepted it by sailing in it. 

The captain also swore that not only the decks 
but the windows were washed every morning, and 
that he had asked and received permission to say 
his prayers at Edfoo. 

" The statement about the decks we can certify to 
be an untruth," said Violet. " As for that about 
the prayers, I am sure the captain must have re- 
ceived a bribe before he made it." 

" Very likely," said Mr. . " But Certezza 

has very high certificates, and demands compensa- 
tion if you do not go to Syria with him. He says 
he has refused many offers from other parties on 
your account." 

" I don't believe he has," said Edith. " If any 
one had made him an offer on the Nile, we should 
have heard of it." 



AMICABLE COMPROMISE. 189 

" But if you go to law with him, what chance 
have you ? You have no witnesses, for all three 
are interested parties. He can get his son, who 
was in the boat with you ; and all the Arab sailors 
can be bribed by him to swear what he likes." 

" I should not like to go to law," said Violet. 

u But we would rather agree to a compromise," 
said Edith, " than go to Syria with him. We shall 
be willing to abide by the Consul's decision." 

We did not then know that our boat had 
leaked from the time we left Cairo, and that one of 
the sailors was often engaged in pumping. Nor 
did we know that the accusation about the deck- 
washing threw blame on the captain, and therefore 
made him take Certezza's side. He was not then 
paid by Certezza, and thus it was against his inter- 
est to testify against him. 

Next dav we received a note from the Consul, 
saying that he would advise us to pay a sum of 
money to Certezza, by way of an " amicable com- 
promise," but certainly not of " compensation." 

Our seat at the table dhote had been changed, 
at Certezza's instigation, from the first day be- 
cause Agnes had informed one of Giacomo's party 
that our boat was a very bad one, and that Cer- 
tezza had chosen it. She had also stated her 
objections to couriers pretty freely, without 



190 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

noticing that Giacomo was waiting behind her 
chair. 

It was rather amusing to hear the remarks of 
some Americans near us. 

" Do you see Certezza's son ? The one whom 
the guide-book recommends." 

" Oh lis that he?" 

" Do you think we can get tents at Jerusa- 
lem ?" 

" I have been asking Certezza's advice, and he 
says we can. He also recommends such a one as 
dragoman." 

" Had you a good dragoman on the Nile ?" asked 
a gentleman of Agnes. 

The sound of the word "dragoman" brought Gia- 
como at once behind the gentleman's chair. 

" A very capable one," answered Agnes. 

We were anxious to have the matter settled 
quickly, as the Khamsin winds were blowing, and 
we wished to be out of Egypt. So next day we 
went to the consulate. 

The Consul said he quite believed our statement, 
and wished he could have made better terms, but 
that he found Certezza a very difficult man to deal 
with. He sent for Certezza. 

" Now, Certezza, you know it's a very large sum 
you're asking," 



DISCUSSION WITH CBRTEZZA. 191 

" Yes, but if I don't get it 111 employ a lawyer, 
and pretend the half. If I don't get that, I'll go 
before a court, and pretend the whole. I'm very 
sorry about this, because I never had a more agree- 
able party. The ladies were so kind and so gene- 
rous, that it was a pleasure to serve them. But I 
know what it is. It's another party that put it into 
their heads, because they want to join them, and 
go to Syria cheaper." 

" Certezza, are you not ashamed of yourself?" 
said Violet. 

"Miss Violet, let me speak for you," said the 
Consul. 

" And these ladies know," said Certezza, " that 
after they'd engaged me I got a telegram from 
somebody else. I can bring a courier who saw me 
get it." 

"But we did not read the telegram," said 
Violet. 

"And besides, Certezza," said Edith, much to 
Agnes's horror, "you know you've told us so 
many lies, that we can't believe a word you say 
now." 

" Thank you, miss. But perhaps you'll mention 
some of the lies I've told." 

Edith was puzzled. The story of our having 
been warned about the wreck of a boat in the 



192 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Cataract, which had lain there for years, but which 
Certezza said had perished the previous week, quite 
escaped her recollection. 

" You know you had a frightful quarrel with the 
sailors at Thebes," said Violet. " Perhaps you will 
tell us what it was about ?" 

u It was about the awning," answered Certezza ; 
and began to explain something to the Consul in 
Arabic. " I told the ladies it was about their bak- 
sheesh, just to keep them quiet." 

We learnt afterwards that the quarrel related to 
Certezza's own payments to the crew. The 
Consul at Thebes had decided it in their favour. 

" I hope," said Certezza, " that these ladies will 
not get half the service that I intended to have 
given them in Syria. But they must give me a 
character. IVe my characters perfect for the last 
thirty years" (throwing them on the table), " and 
my son's called Certezza as well, and I must have 
it." 

" Do you intend giving him a character ?" asked 
the Consul. 

" No," said Violet. " I would rather go before 
a court than tell an untruth." 

" Leave the room, Certezza." 

The Consul kindly agreed to settle our account, 
subtracting some superfluous items which had lately 



VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS. 193 

been added to it. Certezza disappeared from the 
verandah and from Cairo. For several days we 
were pursued by other dragomans, who were like 
so many birds after the same fish. It was rather 
amusing to hear some of their arguments. 

" I'm a native of Syria, madame," said one shabby- 
looking fellow. " I want to go home, and if 
you'll take me, 111 be like a brother to a sister." 

" And I'm a Turk," said another. *' Whatever 
you do, when you go to Syria, don't take a Chris- 
tian." 

At length, with the Consul's approval, we decid- 
ed on engaging a Copt named Armanous. He had 
given entire satisfaction to an American party on the 
Nile. He had a little hesitation in his manner, which 
placed him somewhat at a disadvantage whilst being 
engaged ; but when tried he proved himself quite 
equal to his duties. He had a kind and conciliat- 
ing manner to inferiors, which created a much pleas- 
anter feeling towards his employers than Certezza's 
bullying. 

We gave him a day's trial whilst visiting the 
Pyramids. We drove across the river by a bridge 
of boats and along a carriage road recently con- 
structed for the Prince of Wales's benefit. We 
were assisted to the door of the great Pyramid, 
but did not enter, as a young lady had told 

o 



194 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

us of the rough treatment she experienced in so 
doing. The glare from the white sand was veiy 
trying, and it was much too hot for us to think of 
climbing. An Arab raced up and down in seven 
minutes. He fell from the top and was killed a 
week later. We paid our respects to the huge 
negro-featured sphinx, of which only the head is 
uncovered. One cannot therefore judge of the 
effect of this gigantic monument ; but some idea of 
its proportions may be formed from the statement of 
Pliny, that its length was 143 feet, and the circum- 
ference round the forehead was 101 feet, all cut out 
of the natural rock, and worked smooth. The body 
is that of a lion, and has, I believe, been several times 
uncovered. Near it a temple has been recently 
cleared. It is built of huge porphyry blocks with- 
out inscriptions. 

Our contract with Armanous was much the same 
as that usually made by travellers. It contained a 
stipulation for an abundant supply of water ; and 
also stated that, if we were detained for a day for 
no reason of our own, such day was not to be 
charged for. Armanous's terms were less than Cer- 
tezza's, but the provision he made was on a scale 
ten times more liberal. 

u I am very sorry," said Giacomo to Armanous, 



INVALIDS IN EGYPT. 195 

" that these ladies have engaged you. I wish they 
had taken a bad dragoman, and then they would 
have regretted my father." 

" I wonder," remarked Edith, " that some one 
acquainted with this country does not set up an 
office in Cairo to assist travellers, and make ar- 
rangements for them. I am sure every one would 
willingly pay ten per cent, as a commission to honest 
mans, rather than be at the mercy of these rogues. 
The said office could grant certificates to such drago- 
mans as conducted themselves well, and withdraw 
them in case of misbehaviour. How much invalids 
and their friends must suffer from these perpetual 
worries ! " 

" Indeed," said Violet, " I think doctors should 
be very careful how they send invalids on the Nile. 
How many sad cases have we seen of consumptive 
patients wasting away, far from medical advice, and 
dying among these greedy Arabs ! Surely when 
the hand of death appears plainly on any one, it 
is the grossest cruelty to send him to a country like 
this, for a benefit which in many cases is only 
imaginary. It is only such as have a tendency to 
consumption, but in whom the disease is not yet 
developed, who are likely to be the better for a 
Nile voyage. The variable winds, and the want 

o2 



196 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

of comfort, are very trying to delicate people. 

Violet was right. Many whom we knew at 
Cairo now sleep in the little cemetery of Beyrout, 
whilst the remains of others have been borne by 
sorrowing friends across the wide Atlantic. The dry 
soil of Egypt had been vainly watered with prayer- 
ful tears for their recovery. 

In Alexandria we met Mr. Karl. 

" Have you seen anything more of Mr. and Mrs. 
Horn ?" we asked. 

" They paid me a visit before they left Egypt. 
You should hear the miserable account they give 
of Jerusalem. But everything turns out bad where- 
ever they go." 

"Should you meet with the Greek doctor," 
said Violet, "perhaps you will kindly tell him 
that our visit to Egypt, in place of shaking our 
faith in the Scriptural history of the Israelites, 
has only deepened within us the impression of its 
reality." 

" And I hope you will not think," said Edith, 
" that a gentleman could have managed better with 
Certezza. We met with nothing disagreeable 
until we put ourselves under male protection ; 
and we have been told that gentlemen have fared 
worse at his hands than we did. Dragomans are 



DRAGOMANS. 197 

generally very clever rogues. As a young lady 
said the other day, * We just call them dragons — 
it's shorter/ " 



1 



198 



CHAPTER VIII. 

» 

JAFFA TO HEBRON AND JERUSALEM. 

" T'M very sorry for you, ladies I" 

A So said a dragoman to us as we were leaving 
the hotel at Alexandria. 

" Why are you sorry for us ?" asked Violet. 

"You're very unfortunate. I'm so sorry for 
you. Are you going to Syria? I know all about 
Certezza." 

" We have been unfortunate with Certezza, but 
we've got a good dragoman now." 

" Oh ! no, you haven't. He can't ride, he's quite 
broken down. My party were greatly pleased 
with me on the Nile. They've taken my cousin to 
Syria." 

" Why did they not take you?" 

44 I'm going with some gentlemen to the Hauran. 
Ill meet you at Jerusalem. You'll see !" 

Our voyage to Jaffa was a very stormy one. 



GREEK AND COPTIC PILGRIMS. 199 

Many Greek and Coptic pilgrims were on board, 
and amongst them the whole family of Armanous, 
in charge of his brother, who were setting out on 
their first pilgrimage to the Holy City. They fasted 
throughout the day, and after sunset regaled them- 
selves with raw cucumbers. One of the women 
became sea-sick, and what was Armanous's horror 
to find her lying dead in her berth ! At Port Said 
the quarantine officers at first refused to allow us any 
communication with the shore. An additional 
doctor's certificate was quickly procured, and the 
passengers allowed to land. The Greek priest re- 
fused to bury the woman, and poor Armanous was 
in great distress. A gift, however, made the little 
pope at length discover that the deceased was a 
Christian. 

We passed Jaffa through a mistake at 7. a.m., 
but turned at 9*30. and arrived an hour after noon. 
The work of disembarkation was a most difficult 
one. We laughed heartily on seeing the dainty fig- 
ure of Armanous's wife, arrayed in pink silk, and 
glittering with jewels, lowered into the little boat. 
Our tents and beds got a dip, and after rocking for 
some time on the great waves we landed. 

We went to the Convento Europeo, at whose 
massive gateway several monks stood exclaiming, 
" Pas de dragomans !" They sternly refused ad- 



200 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

mittance to both Armanous and his goods, but al- 
lowed him to carry our luggage upstairs. Arma- 
nous displayed an extraordinary command of tem- 
per ; calling out whilst following us, " It's at your 
expense, you know." He afterwards explained 
that many dragomans take their employers there, 
and after enjoying the hospitality of the convent, 
and ordering as if they were in an hotel, leave no- 
thing behind in payment. " I am not angry," he 
added, " for I know most of my class deserve this 
treatment." 

We and our fellow-passengers were made free of 
a small dining-room, and after drinking a glass of 
sherbet we were conducted by Fra Davidde, the 
serving monk, to our bed-room, or "habitation," 
near the top of the house. Fra Davidde was a 
worn, spare man, a very needle for activity. He 
had harder work than any waiter. " If I am un- 
able to fulfil my office for a single day," he said, 
"I must resign it to another, and go back to 
prayers ; but I've prayed long enough — others can 
pray for me now." 

We descended, and had an hour's talk with the 
Father Superior, a Spaniard. He told us that the 
sea-waves sometimes dash in at the windows dur- 
ing a violent storm. 

At half-past seven we descended by long flights 



CONVENTQ EUROPEO. 201 

of stone stairs to the refectory, where a plain but 
plentiful, and well-prepared dinner was served. 

" Does not this room, with its bare walls and 
floor, its vaulted roof and mediaeval appearance, 
remind you of some scene in Scott's novels?" 
said Violet ? " And I am sure the monks know 
what good cookery is." 

" Albeit they eat it on pewter plates," answered 
Edith. 

A young German baron was setting off well- 
armed on a midnight journey to Jerusalem. He 
kindly offered to take rooms for us in the Damas- 
cus Hotel. A lady was present who received great 

respect as aunt to the Archbishop of . Her 

maid and a Tyrolese lady sat beside her. The 
Archbishop's secretary was travelling with her on a 
special mission. He gave the benediction to the 
table, and most of the guests crossed themselves. 
Fra Davidde served whilst joining in the conversa- 
tion, which was carried on in Italian. The com- 
pany was increased by the arrival of a very en- 
tertaining Italian doctor from Jerusalem, and also 
of a French peasant in a blue blouse and tar- 
boosh, and an old French woman who had seen 
sixty-eight summers. Her dress had all the air of 
simple neatness peculiar to her country-women, 
yet she looked most comical in her little poke 



202 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

bonnet. She kept the whole table in amusement 
with her lively tongue and original manners. The 
doctor explained that she and her companion had 
travelled with the French caravan. They had 
visited Jerusalem and Hebron, but finding the Dead 
Sea too much for them, had returned to Jaffa. 
The woman said — 

"lama vieiUeJUle ; we have been to the tomb of 
our Saviour, and you have no idea of the effect it 
will produce on you when you see it." 

u You will find little brigandage in Syria now," 
said Fra Davidde; "the present Pasha of Da- 
mascus has suppressed it by causing the imposts 
to be more strictly levied on the different tribes. 
Ah, it is different now from what it was in Ibrahim 
Pasha's time ! We were not allowed to whitewash 
the church of the sepulchre ; and we had to em- 
ploy subterfuges to get our dead buried. Even 
when a formal permit for interment was granted, 
it ran thus ; ' To bury this Christian dog.' But the 
present Governor of Jerusalem has been in Eng- 
land, and is much more liberal." 

Edith made a funny mistake in Italian. She 
thought the word for lepers must be lepri, so she 
asked, 

" Sono molti lepri in Gerusalemme ?" 



NIGHT IN A CONVENT. 203 

" No," answered the doctor, " perche gli Europei 
li mangiano tutti." * 

Edith was perfectly confounded ! 

After dinner we went to the saloon, where the 
doctor entertained us with a lively account of his 
adventures during the Greek revolution. 

The following episode occurred in the conversa- 
tion : — 

Doctor. Lei conosce Atene ? 

Violet. No. E interessante ? 

Doctor. No, non h in Terra Santa, e al di Ik del 
mare, f 

On parting for the night, the doctor said to the 
monks he hoped they were not scandalised by his 
conversation. We went to most comfortable beds 
by the light of an altar lamp. At 4 a.m. we heard 
the cock crow, and the voice of singing in the 
chapel, and at eight had a nice cup of tea in our 
room. 

We lunched at 11*15, and had great amuse- 
ment with our French friend, Mademoiselle Lucie. 
When she wished a second supply of anything, she 
ran to the side-table to help herself; and if anyone 

* u Are there many hares in Jerusalem ?" 

u No," answered the doctor, "because the Europeans eat them all." 

t Doctor. Do you know Athens ? 
Violet. No. Is it interesting ? 
Doctor. No, it is not in the Holy Land, it is beyond the sea. 



•I 



204 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

at the other end of the table made a remark she 
wished to hear, they might count on her presence 
beside them in two seconds. She entertained us 
afterwards on the house-top, the Secretary walk- 
ing up and down, and suppressing many a smile 
whilst reading his missal : — 

u I have long wished to visit Jerusalem," she 
said, " but my friends tried to dissuade me from 
doing it alone, at my age. So when I resolved to 
go, I took my ticket, and told no one, but wrote 
to the prefect of our town from Marseilles, and also 
to my cur£, who would certainly have kept me at 
home had he known. I have been rewarded for my 
journey I See these beautiful flowers I got from the 
Dames de Sion. And I begged the good Monsig- 

nor to give me his blessing. Ah ! do you 

know, Monsignor ? He was converted by see- 
ing the Blessed Virgin appear to him. If you go to 

Jerusalem you must ask to see Monsignor . 

He will help you so much." 

At two o'clock we made a trial of our horses. 
We rode along the badly paved and crowded 
streets, then along the Jerusalem road, then through 
gardens of prickly pear, and orchards gay with 
ripe oranges and fragrant with their blossoms. Ar- 
manous indulged in many a scamper. 

" I have heard," he said, " what my friend Ahmed 



JAFFA. 205 

said of me at Alexandria. I wish to show you 
that it is false." 

'At five o'clock we went, accompanied by the 
Secretary, and guided by Fra Davidde (our angeli 
custody they said) to the roof of the Greek con- 
vent, where we had a peep through the windows of 
a gaudily decorated li schismatic" church. Then we 
visited the house where it is said that Peter had 
the vision. It is now used as a mosque. We next 
had a view of different cemeteries, and of Napoleon's 
hospital. We had dinner at half-past seven, and 
before it was finished a very lively and handsome 
young French monk arrived, after a twelve hours' 
fatiguing and continuous ride from Jerusalem. He 
sank into a chair. Fra Davidde saluted him by a 
kiss of the hand. 

" That is very good, Fra Davidde, but I'd rather 
have something to eat." 

Mademoiselle Lucie hastened to do likewise. 

u Oh! Mademoiselle Lucie ! are you here ? Where 
are you going next ?" 

" Oh ! mm pbre, I want to go to Rome. I 
couldn't go alone, but Signor Velasquez has offered 
to go with me." 

Signor Velasquez was a Spanish gentleman, who 
jiow began to think his joke of the morning was 
becoming too serious. 



206 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" Mademoiselle," he said. " I seriously advise you 
not to attempt the journey. You have no idea of 
the trouble you will have to reach Rome. The 
last time I was there, my luggage was searched 
three times, and I had to show my passport six 
time Six fois, Mademoiselle !" 

" Oh ! that is frightful ; I won't go," exclaimed 
Mademoiselle, in a tone of disappointment. 

"But, Mademoiselle," said Violet, "it would 
be quite different were this gentleman under your 
protection. The Custom-house people are always 
polite to ladies." 

" Sixfois, Mademoiselle !" repeated the Spaniard. 

" But why can't you go to Rome," said the young 
dignitary. " You might go alone." 

" But, monpkre, I can't speak Italian." 

" Never mind that. When you've been a week 
in Italy, you'll speak it quite nicely. Take care you 
don't learn to swear in Italian." 

" Well, I think I shall go." 

"Sixfois, Mademoiselle ! " 

"You'll see plenty of scarlet cardinals. And 
then you know there's Vesuvius, which is always 
raining down fire on the country round." 

All present were now convulsed with laughter, 
above which was still heard the Spaniard's voice, , 
calling — 



DEPARTURE FROM THE CONVENT. 207 

"Sixfois, Mademoiselle ! " 
The poor creature said, 
" Oh ! dear. Til just go back to France." 
" Mademoiselle, come here," said Violet. " It 
doesn't do to believe all that gentlemen tell 

you." 

" But how can you show so little respect to 
such a saintly man ?" said poor bewildered Made- 
moiselle. 

The young monk was evidently making game of 
her reverence for the Sepulchre. The whole com- 
pany, excepting ourselves, kissed his hand as they 
said good night. 

At three next day we left the Convent, the aunt 
and her party having started an hour previous. 
The Superior gave us a letter of introduction to 
all the convents in Syria, which we gladly ac- 
cepted, as we thought it might be useful in case of 
illness. 

"I think all dragomans have taken an oath 
never to speak a word of truth," said Fra Davidde. 
" How differently we treat our pilgrims ! We try 
to save them spending money, and they see all the 
Holy Places without being annoyed by the Arabs' 
imposition. But you English entrust yourselves to 
rogues, who are always on the watch to cheat 
you." 



208 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

The doctor accompanied us. Agnes's horse took 
ill at starting, and she was obliged to take Arman- 
ous's. The doctor rode a magnificent animal. It 
was his own property, and had several times em- 
ployed its heels to protect him from danger. A 
Greek had that morning received a kick whilst at- 
tempting to tickle it with a switch. He promised 
to procure seats for us in the Latin gallery of the 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, in order to witness 
the distribution of the Holy Fire on the Saturday 
preceding the Greek Easter. 

" It is the only place of safety," he said, " for 
you know that on one occasion more than four 
hundred people were killed at that time in a riot 
with the Turkish soldiery. But you do not really 
mean to go to Hebron by way of Ain es Shems ?" 

" Yes, we do," said Agnes. u We want to see 
Samson's country and the Valley of Elah." 

" But you've no idea how bad the roads axe ! It 
requires quite an English courage to cross these 
mountains." 

We passed through delicious gardens, rode along- 
side the Jerusalem road, over a plain all covered 
with wild flowers, primroses, lily of the valley, heath, 
&c. The doctor assured us that this plain might 
be entirely planted with orange-gardens were there 
any protection from the wandering Bedouins. We 



our dragoman's mettle tried. 209 

passed a tower called Yasan, and a little after Beit 
Dejan. We found the aunt and her party standing 
under some fine old gnarled trees. We dismounted, 
ate an orange with them, and then continued our 
journey in company. The aunt's horse was led 
by a man on a donkey. Another man walked by 
her side. The maid and the Tyrolese lady rode 
astride, whilst the timid secretary followed ten 
yards behind. One of the monks had a gallop 
with Violet, the doctor, and Armanous. He 
made a sudden rush at Armanous, flourishing a 
clubbed stick. Armanous unslung his gun and de- 
fended himself bravely. Edith remarked that the 
two were good representatives of the Greek and 
Latin communioijs. The monk soon rode back to 
us and said, 

" I have been trying your dragoman's mettle ; 
he knows how to defend you. With a poor drago- 
man you might be murdered or robbed, but that is 
a brave man. You will be safe with him all over 
Syria. He has also answered satisfactorily all the 
questions I have asked him." 

We felt very grateful for his kindness. We had 
a gallop to Ramleh, resisted the entreaties of our 
companions to sleep at the convent, agreed to meet 
the doctor at Bethlehem on Saturday, and repaired 
to our tents, which were pitched outside the town. 

p 



210 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

We had a magnificent sunset, and dined at 9.30. 

Armanous had made every provision for our com- 
fort. He had engaged a first-rate Nubian cook, and 
his waiter Yakoub was a second-class dragoman 
who wished to improve himself. Mohammed was 
a tall black man, who generally wore a white jacket 
and a blue drugget petticoat, and could get up a 
first-rate dinner in half an hour, after a ten hours' 
ride. He could also pitch his own tent, and unload 
his portable kitchen from the mules. Yakoub was 
a very handsome and very conceited youth, a capi- 
tal rider, kindly and considerate, but with a ten- 
dency to laziness. Armanous had a very dark com- 
plexion and very long Roman nose. His clothes 
always looked as if they had been, thrown on with 
a pitchfork. Agnes imagined that he was in the 
habit of wearing a different dress when at home. 
His full Turkish trowsers were so long as often to 
make him stumble. Yakoub, on the contrary, took 
great pride in showing a pair of neat French boots. 

We had a dining-tent of twelve cords, a sleep- 
ing-tent of fourteen cords, a kitchen-tent, and a 
little square tent, which was always carried about 
for luncheon. Our British flag was planted in the 
centre of our encampment. We had small port- 
able iron bedsteads, and every convenience except 
a looking-glass. To carry ourselves and baggage 



ENCAMPMENT OF BEDOUINS. 211 

we had six horses, twelve mules, and two donkeys. 
These were all fastened round our tents during the 
night. Armanous, Yakoub, and Mohammed slept 
in the kitchen-tent ; the muleteers spread their 
mats on the turf, and two guards from the village 
watched over us. 

Our slumbers were slightly disturbed by the 
tinkling of bells, the neighing of horses, and the 
occasional snore or shout of an Arab servant on 
the other side of the canvas. We looked at the 
large white circular roof over our heads, and 
could hardly realize that such a thin partition sepa- 
rated us from the free air and the view of the 
glorious stars. 

At four a.m. Yakoub called us, and at six we 
were in the saddle. We rode over a corn-field 
and through long grass filled with every colour of 
flowers — a more brilliant carpet than ever monarch 
trod on. At length we reached Ekron, and turn- 
ing round a low hill came upon an encampment of 
Bedouins, whose tents were merely ragged black 
blankets stretched over a few sticks. They all 
came out to exchange smiles and salutes with 
Armanous. These were, no doubt, hypocritical 
enough on their part, as they are the terror of the 
lonely traveller. We peeped into some tents, and 
saw a woman turning a millstone; also various 

p2 



212 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

collections of poultry, sheep, and dirty children. 
At our feet, all the way to Bethshemesh, bloomed 
the yellow marigold, the blue-bell, the lily of the 
.valley, the primrose, all blending their bright tints 
into a tissue of fairy beauty. Sometimes the path 
before us was red with poppies, sometimes piuk 
and white with other lovely flowrets ; and soon we 
were actually on the very road traversed by the 
ark of God in its strange progress from Ekron to 
Bethshemesh. We could hear something of the 
music that accompanied it, as cattle were constantly 
crossing our path. 

Our road, never very distinct, now frequently 
ran into a bog or flowing streamlet, over which 
our horses plumped with a little coaxing. To 
the left was a range of hills, over which the sun 
cast streaks of golden glory, and the cloud shadows 
flitted along their sombre slopes as they do in 
more familiar lands. We were preceded by a 
guard from the governor of Ramleh, whom Arnia- 
nous had engaged as far as Hebron, a fellow armed 
cap-a-pied dressed in a blue jacket, with a pink- 
spotted white handkerchief on his head. His bare 
feet were stuck into great pointed red shoes, and 
these again into shovel-like iron stirrups, which 
served the purpose of spurs. In his hand he 
carried a spear ten yards long, something like those 



REMARKABLE SITES. 213 

of our Pictish ancestors. We passed Zeboim, 
whose king made war with the King of Sodom, 
and then crossing a hill, found the valley of Surar, 
or Sorek, bursting on our view. A white object 
on the summit of a hill to the north, marks the 
site of Zorah, where Manoah's wife had that 
wondrous vision, and whence Samson descended to 
carry out his fearful stratagem, by which he set fire 
to the waving corn of these plains. The few olive- 
trees scattered about reminded us of the circum- 
stance. 

To the west was a ridge of high dark mountains, 
amongst which is Timnath, the home of Samson's 
wife; and, doubtless, thereabouts he killed the 
lion. We crossed the vale where Delilah lived, 
and ascended a low ridge, to where a few remains 
of stone walls mark the site of Bethshemesh. It 
was gay with yellow flowers ; and with the two 
green wadys on either side it looked like a topaz 
in a setting of emeralds. 

Meditating on the exploits of Samson and of the 
cows, and enjoying an excellent repast of cold fowl 
and eggs, we passed three hours in our luncheon- 
tent, where Violet and Edith wrapped themselves 
in their waterproof sheets, and tried to sleep like 
Arabs, with their saddle-bags for pillows. These 
saddle-bags had been made at Alexandria, of white 



214 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

leather, according to a design of Armanous, and 
were fastened on at the right side of the horse, to 
balance the rider. Edith could unfasten hers 
whilst riding, hold her reins and umbrella in her 
left hand, take out the guide-book and read it. 
We always rode with our umbrellas up, and with 
scarves of white cambric, put on like Turkish veils, 
below our white-turbaned straw hats. 

After Yakoub had passed us with the baggage 
mules, we re-mounted, and had a two hours' ride 
over hill and dale, over muddy streamlet and 
stony torrent-bed, until we found the scenery 
change ; and to the blooming meadows succeeded 
rocky hills, clothed here and there with grey olive- 
trees. For. an hour or more we clambered over 
rocky paths, as bad as those of the Swiss Furka Pass 
were ten years ago, until we arrived at Beit Nettif, a 
small village on a stony hill. Some women draw- 
ing water at a well gave our guard a sip, and 
directed us to the spot where our tents were pitched. 
The women and girls of the village peeped about 
and pushed at our sleeping apartment as if we were 
a wild-beast show. We were greatly struck by the 
scarcity of inhabitants in the fertile districts through 
which we had passed. Sometimes not a house was 
to be seen for miles around. The Sheikh of the 
town paid Armanous a visit, and could scarcely be 



VALLEY OF ELAH. 215 

made to understand how unwelcome a prolonged 
conversation was to his weary hosts. Our escort 
fired off his gun as a warning to the villagers. 
Yakoub cunningly exhibited to the Sheikh a silver 
toy pipe in the shape of a pistol, and made the poor 
man believe it was a formidable weapon. 

We rose next morning at four, and started at 
six. Our road was covered with stones and rocks 
all the way. We descended from the hill top into 
Wady es Sumt, with its green fields of young corn, 
and stopped for a few minutes under the shade of 
one of the largest terebinth trees in Palestine. A 
short ride brought us into the valley of Elah, 
where, instead of the flowering meadows, our eyes 
were delighted with every sort of flowering shrub. 
The valley is very narrow, bordered on either side 
by rocky hills, whose steep sides were quite gay 
with sweet-brier, wild roses, and daffodils ; whilst 
occasionally a terebinth tree shed some of its deli- 
cate blossoms over our path. We tried to imagine 
the encampment of the Israelites on the one side, 
and of the Philistines on the other, and the great 
giant standing up each successive morning to defy 
the armies of Israel. We picked up some stones 
from the dry torrent-bed which runs through the 
centre. The very stone which killed Goliath we 
did not find, though we wondered our friends the 



216 EASTERN PILGRIMS, 

monks had not made the attempt, as they would 
no doubt have been successful. 

We next crossed a steep mountain side by a 
rough path, and got a magnificent view of the 
country of the Philistines. No wonder the Israel- 
ites could not drive them out from a country so 
chequered by hills and narrow valleys. Soon the 
valley which runs from Hebron to Jerusalem came 
in sight ; and after rounding another hill, we found 
ourselves between the stone enclosures of the vine- 
yards which cover the valley of Mamre, once called 
Eshcol. 

Many a rock had to be scaled, and many a pool 
waded through, before we had our luncheon-tent 
pitched beneath the shade of the fine terebinth 
which is called Abraham's oak. Here the patriarch 
spent much of his life in friendship with his neigh- 
bours, and in occasional converse with God mani- 
fest in angel's form. And from here he went to 
attack the plunderers of Lot. We tried to imagine 
the procession which came hither from Egypt with 
Jacob's body ; and in looking at the distant towers 
of Hebron, we wondered and admired the provi- 
dence which has permitted the great graves of 
Egyptian potentates to be rifled of their bones ; 
whilst those of " the father of the faithful " and of 
his immediate successors still rest peacefully be- 



i* 



Abraham's tents. 217 

neath the Haram, guarded from every assault by 
the jealousy of the Turks. 

u Does not the eye of Omniscience watch over 
them ?" said Edith. 

" How strange it is to think," said Agnes, " that 
perhaps Abraham's tents were no better than the 
black ones of the Bedouin. It is difficult to 
imagine him entertaining angels under such a rude 
canopy." 

" Abraham's tents could scarcely be so perfect 
as ours," said Violet. "But surely they could 
not have been the least like those of the degrad- 
ed Bedouin. You must remember that he came 
from Ur of the Chaldees, and had probably been 
nurtured in the highest civilization of the age. 
And we may gather from the Bible that he dis- 
played great enlightenment and industry in his 
worldly affairs. This is shown by the fact of his 
digging wells. The fear of God has a wonderful 
effect on a man's surroundings." 

The hills which inclose this valley are covered 
with rude walls to their stony summits. In some 
parts they were black with vine-stumps, and in others 
varied by a reddish-leaved shrub. At our feet grew 
beautiful violets, and a small species of holly, whilst 
the air was fragrant with the perfume of tiny ver- 
benas. The Russians had lately bought this plot 



2 1 8 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

of ground for £400, and intended enclosing the 
grand old tree within the walls of a convent. Every 
man that passed us on the road was saluted by Ar- 
raanous. It is the rule in Syria that if a salute be 
returned the stranger is friendly ; if it be not re- 
turned, you may look out for a robber. 

At three p.m. we re-mounted, and proceeded 
along a very rough road, between gardens of fig- 
trees and of peach-trees in blossom ; and in half an 
hour we were amongst olive gardens, and wading 
through a clear brook which trickled down a street, 
we found our tents pitched on a grassy sward, 
which was covered with groups of people, right in 
front of the town. The burial-ground was near. 
About it stood groups of mourners. In another 
spot a circle of women witnessed some dancing per- 
formances. Our arrival produced quite a sensation, 
and we had some trouble to prevent the women 
and children from peeping in at the door of our 
tent whilst we were changing our dress. During 
dinner, some women came and stood before the 
door. We exchanged smiles with them. Armanous 
and Yakoub, who were at first hidden from the 
gaze of those outside, suddenly looked out. In- 
stantly all the veils flew down in a most ridiculous 
manner, only to be raised again as often as the men 
withdrew their gaze. 



HEBRON. 219 

Edith and Agnes climbed one of the hills, from 
the summit of which they had a commanding view 
over the whole vale of Mamre. It is shaped like a 
lozenge, or heart, of which Hebron fills up the 

smaller end, and is surrounded by low, rocky 

« 

ridges. Hebron is built of stone against the slope of 
a hill. The house-roofs are sometimes flat, and 
sometimes surmounted by a stone cupola. The lead 
roof of the Haram is a prominent object, and the 
whole town looked grand in the light of sunset, a 
light which just sufficed to show us the way down 
to our encampment. 

" Before retiring to rest," said Edith, " let us not 
fail to take a look at the star-spangled sky. We 
can think of the night when Abraham's eyes gazed 
from this place on the same heavens, as he listened 
to the unfailing promises of Jehovah : ' So shall thy 
seed be.' " 

Next morning we had arranged to proceed as far 
as Solomon's pools, and devoting next day to the 
Cave of Adullam, reach Jerusalem on Saturday 
night. Before setting off, however, we rode 
through the town to visit the Haram. Passing 
the pool near which David hanged the murder- 
ers of Ishbosheth, we threaded our way along 
wretchedly-paved streets, and through a crowded 
bazaar ; after which the road became almost per- 



220 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

pendicular, and as the smooth stones were slippery 
with rain, our ' horses stumbled at almost every 
step. 

We were glad to halt before the principal door of 
the mosque, where several Turks stood with looks 
which Agnes fancied were meant to say, " Approach 
if you dare f We rode round to a hill overlooking 
the edifice, which is of a peculiar style of architec- 
ture. 

A Saracenic mosque is evidently on the top of a 
Jewish building with square pilasters. The part 
containing the Cave of Machpelah, is covered with 
a leaden roof. My eyes filled with tears as I gazed 
on this proof of the faithfulness of a covenant God, 
who, through the fanaticism of the Mohammedans, 
has thus " made sure the possession of a burying- 
place unto Abraham and to his seed for ever." 
And there lie indeed the bones of that grand old 
man who believed God, and whom the Lord causes 
to be respected in death, as he was in life, by men 
of every faith. May we who have thus been privi- 
leged to look on the tombs of Abraham, Isaac, 
Jacob, Sarah, and Leah, be blessed to sit down 
with them in the kingdom of heaven ! 

The rain now fell in torrents, and we descended 
by a fearful road to the bazaars, where many of 
Abraham's children peered out at us from the small 



SOLOMON S POOLS. 221 

eastern shops, and where we had our tents re-pitched 
for the rest of the day. 

In the afternoon Agnes and Edith again climbed 
the hill opposite Hebron. On the summit is a little 
white wely, some ruins, a few fig gardens, and some 
olive-trees. We walked along a rocky plateau, 
and had an extensive view of the mountains to the 
south and east. The road to Petra could be seen, 
threading their barren slopes for some distance. 
Three other parties pitched their tents beside us 
that night. 

We left Hebron early next morning. For some 
distance we traversed a Roman road, as rough and 
slippery as two thousand years of neglect could make 
it. Our path ran over hill and dale. Now we 
were breathing the breezy air of the heights, now 
glowing in the heat of the corn-covered valleys. 
What miserable ploughing we saw! The rough 
mountain side was slightly scratched by a tiny yoke 
of oxen, and then sown. We passed Neby Yunas, 
perched on a hill-top, then Beit Sur ; and after 
three hours' clambering along what would be called 
a goat track in Switzerland, we descended what 
seemed like a flight of steps to Solomon's Pools. 
These pools are three immense oblong tanks, built 
of solid masonry. They are probably referred to 
in Ecclesiastes ii. 6. Their greenish blue waters 



222 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

glittered in the sunshine as we took our lunch. 

We saw Mr. C on his way to the Dead Sea, 

via Mar Saba. Behind us was a square building, 
apparently of Saracenic times. 

After leaving the pools, we continued along the 
wretched Roman road, rounding the summits of 
various hills. 

" Is that Jerusalem ?" asked Agnes, as a village 
with a large white church and convent appeared, 
crowning a lofty height. 

"No, it is Beit Yala." 

" Is that Jerusalem ?" asked Edith, as the white 
towers of another village came to view on the 
summit of a hill. 

" No, it is Bethlehem." 

There are some moments when feelings are too 
deep for utterance. Edith repeated the words of 
the thirty-seventh paraphrase. They served to 
recall the memory of that wondrous night when 
the Son of God assumed the form of a mortal 
babe; and though Bethlehem is reserved for a 
future visit, yet, as we rode along these hill-sides, 
and passed a shepherd watching a flock of sheep, 
we felt that the story of David, who watched his 
flock here, sunk into insignificance before that 
mystery of mysteries — "God manifest in the 
flesh." 



JERUSALEM. 223 

We soon reached Rachel's tomb, a round white 
wely in the bottom of a deep valley. We rode 
around the tomb, among the crumbling tombstones 
of Rachel's children ; and had no leisure to admire 
the convent of Mar Elias, by the wayside, for the 
towers of Zion burst on our view. 

"We are riding along the plain of Rephaim," 
said Edith. " I wish I knew where Calvary was. 
But what does it matter ? The great sacrifice for 
our redemption was wrought out under these skies ; 
the earth we are treading on has quaked at the 
death of her Creator. How I can picture Him led 
from this city, with the cross and the crown of 
thorns, followed by the mocking crowd !" 

Jerusalem, as you approach it from the west, 
seems to stand in the middle of a wide plain. But 
when you get nearer, you perceive that a deep 
chasm runs close outside the wall. As we rode 
slowly along its edge, we had a peep down at the 
wild crags and rich verdure of Tophet. Agnes 
thought she could fancy David looking down from 
his palace on Zion into that romantic glen, which, 
though small, has all the sublime beauty of moun- 
tain scenery. We all felt we could say with truth, 
" Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth 
is Mount Zion." 

We rushed up to the Jaffa gate as fast as we 



224 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

could along a steep incline, sending Jews, Turks, 
and dragomans to the right about, out of the way of 
our horses 1 heels. Yakoub stood waiting at the door 
of the Custom-house, for the keys of our luggage. 

Our old acquaintance, Ahmed, seized the bridle 
of Violet's horse. "Now, haven t you found out 
that I was right ? He can't take you anywhere. 
Why haven't you been to Gaza and Ascalon ? " 

44 We are very much pleased with Armanous," 
answered Violet. 44 1 only hope you will treat 
your party as well as he has treated us." 

44 Ah ! but wait till you see the roads on Leba- 
non I If I were a gentleman, I wouldn't have such 
a man. I'll see you at Damascus." 

Armanous stood listening with a smile, just as if 
Ahmed had been praising him. A few days later 
Ahmed begged his pardon. 

We passed a long row of buildings, which we 
were told was Sir Moses Montefiore's hospital for 
sick Jews. We entered through the massive city 
walls by an arched doorway. The streets are dark, 
narrow, and wretchedly paved, so that we were 
glad to alight from our stumbling horses at the 
Damascus Hotel, where the German baron had 
secured rooms for us. 

44 Have you seen the Archbishop's secretary 
again ?" we asked him. 



THE HOLY CITY. 225 

" Yes, I met him this afternoon in Gethsemane." 
How we started at the familiar word ! But we 
really were in Jerusalem at last! Oh! may we 
have a happier entrance, after the journey of life, 
rugged and varied as that day's path, to mansions 
prepared for us in the Jerusalem that is above ! 



226 



CHAPTER IX. 



A SUNDAY IN JERUSALEM. 



WHAT a pleasure it was to go to church on 
Mount Zion! Walking along Christian 
Street, and passing under part of the Sepulchre 
Church, and also in front of the Bishop's Palace, 
we found ourselves in a neat little English place of 
worship. Its simple decorations contrasted pleas- 
ingly with those of the so-called Christian churches 
around; and the service was quite in keeping. 
On our way home, we were shown the very pillar 
from whose top the cock crew. Armanous preceded 
us with a silver-mounted cane, and as the natives, 
imagined he was a cawass of the Consulate, he had 
no difficulty in making way for us, although people, 
and sometimes donkeys, had often to be pushed 
aside with little ceremony. Some idea of street re- 
gulations here may be formed from the circumstance 
that a particular .corner in front of the hotel is de- 
voted to the shoeing of horses. 



JERUSALEM. 227 

After luncheon we took a walk out by the Jaffa 
gate, where the road was crowded with people of 
every nationality, and every costume under heaven. 
Most interesting were the groups of white-veiled 
Jewish women seated on the ground ; most dis- 
agreeable were the beggars, chiefly lepers, who 
sometimes crowded round us, so that it was difficult 
to avoid their touch. We passed round the city wall 
to the north-west corner, where, from an elevated 
terrace, we had an excellent view of some points in 
the city. We could see the gilded roof of the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre : and above all, we could 
perceive the square enclosure of the Haram, once 
filled with a temple round which cluster such strik- 
ing memories. 

We stopped to admire the gold necklace and 
bracelets on the person of a Jewish girl of twelve 
years, when some women pointed to a little boy, 
saying he was her betrothed. Violet exhorted the 
young bridegroom to be kind to his future wife ; 
and we then continued our walk down a declivity 
to the Damascus Gate, stood for a few minutes to 
examine its singular architecture, and then proceeded 
along the Via Dolorosa as far as the Church of the 
Flagellation. There a feeling of awe vM come over 
your mind in spite of the absurdities connected with 
it. 

Q2 



228 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

44 There," said Edith, " is the house of Dives. 
The leper, who sits in front, is so frightful that 
even the dogs might be afraid to touch him/' 

We took a look at the deep fosse to the north of 
the Haram wall, supposed to have been the pool of 
Bethesda. A gate into the Haram stood open. 
No one was there to watch it. The trees inside 
looked beautifully green, and Agnes tried to enter. 
But Armanous begged her not to do so, in such a 
frightened manner that she desisted. We passed 
out of St. Stephen's gate, and a few steps brought 
us to the edge of the hill overlooking the valley of 
Jehoshaphat, with the Mount of Olives rising before 
us in the soft light of sunset. It is separated from 
the city by a deep chasm, at the bottom of which 
is the so-called garden of Gethsemane. 

" I am certain," said Agnes, " that the garden 
never was situated where four roads meet in full 
sight of the city gate ; yet one cannot gaze on this 
glorious view without feeling that somewhere here 
must have been the scene of that awful night, when 
the cup of suffering was presented to the Saviour. 
How often must His blessed feet have trodden the 
steep path down to that deep valley, as He sought 
His sleeping-place amongst these olives, or on the 
slope of that green mount ; for Solomon's porch, 
where He so often taught, was situated along the 



1 



SURROUNDINGS OF GETHSEMANE. 229 

ridge on this side, where the east wall of the 
Haram now stands." 

" And I," said Violet, " think this gate may not 
be improperly named. A more convenient spot for 
the Jews to cast Stephen out of the city and stone 
him could not easily be found. But the surround- 
ings of Gethsemane will be treasured in my me- 
mory as long as I live." 



230 



CHAPTER X. 

RAMBLES ABOUT JERUSALEM. 

" TTAKOUB, come with me. I'm going to take 
X a walk/' said Agnes one morning, at five 

o'clock. 

Yakoub appeared, accompanied by the guide, 
who bore the name of Esa, Joshua, or Jesus. He 
was a youth with strongly marked Jewish features, 
long, straight, dark hair, and a face which revealed 
something of the dearth of water within the city. 
He wore a black cloth jacket, and white cotton 
Turkish trowsers, which are in reality a wide petti- 
coat, sewed together at the foot, with two holes 
just above the ankles. 

Agnes described her walk as follows : 

"I saw the Pool of Hezekiah from a shop 

window. It is a large tank, surrounded by houses, 

and is used to supply some Turkish baths. I went 

along the Via Dolorosa, and out at St. Stephen's 



WALK BT THE HARAM WALL. 231 

Gate. I walked along a narrow path amongst 
Turkish graves, by the side of the Haram wall. In 
this wall I noticed some fine stones of Jewish work- 
manship. One measures eighteen feet by five. I 
sat down in the shade of a vaulted tomb, and tried 
to talk to some Turkish women, while Yakoub and 
Esa pursued lizards. I passed the Golden Gate, 
now built up, and then walked to the south-east 
corner of the Haram, where is a fine specimen 
of Jewish masonry. What a fine view I had of 
the valley of the Kedron ! Down in the depth was 
the Pool of Siloam ; yonder was Aceldama, with the 
Hill of Evil Counsel rising above it ; and yonder 
the Hill of Offence, green with patches of corn, and 
dark with memories of Moloch. I followed the 
city wall for some distance, and then clambered 
over into a ploughed field, and found myself on 
the site of Ophel. 

A short walk brought me to the south wall of 
the Haram, where I noticed one single and one 
triple closed arch. Sounds of doleful music came 
from the grated windows of the Mosque el Aksa, 
like a lament for the temple's fallen glory. I 
scrambled down to the path again. What would be 
said if a principal road around a European city 
were covered with stones as this is ? I re-entered 
by the JDung Gate, and walked through a garden 



232 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

of prickly pear between Zion and Moriah. I gazed 
on Robinson's Arch, and saw Esa measure a stone 
nearly thirty-nine feet long and ten feet deep ; a 
corner-stone it was, too. From there a few steps 
brought me to the Jews' Place of Wailing. Some 
men were seated close to the wall, rocking, mourning, 
and weeping, in a most affecting manner. A group 
of old women were beating their breasts, and 
shedding tears. 

" They ask the Lord to give them back the Holy 
Land," said Esa. 

It was a most touching sight, and I felt in- 
clined to mingle my tears and prayers with 
theirs. 

" I saw it, too, this afternoon," said Edith, " and 
I prayed that the Lord would soon reveal Himself 
to them as one greater than the temple." 

" And did you see Bab-el-Silsilli ?" asked Agnes. 

"A chain was said to fall from heaven on 
the head of the guilty who passed through 
it." 

" Did you not see the miraculous impression of 
our Saviour's elbow on the rock when he fell with 
the cross ?" responded Edith. 

" No. Esa never tells me these things, for he 
sees I've such a dislike to them." 

" He pointed out to me the spots in the valley 



MOUNT ZION. 233 

of Hinnom, where Judas hanged himself, and 
where Zacharias perished, who was slain between 
the temple and the altar. How altar or temple 
came there neither he nor I could tell." 

" I have had another long walk," said Agnes, a 
few days later. 

" Oh, indeed ! Where have you been ?" 

" I went, accompanied by Armanous, past a 
handsome Armenian convent, through the Zion 
Gate, and was led into the church called the Cob- 
naculum, from the tradition that here the Last 
Supper was celebrated, and saw there a white bier, 
covered with a mildewed green cloth, which I was 
sure could not be the tomb of David. We descend- 
ed the steep side of Zion, through fields of corn 
into the valley of Tophet. I startled Armanous by 
telling him of the prophecy, i Zion shall be ploughed 
as a field.' " 

On the other side of the valley are low, wild 
crags pierced with caves and tombs. A well on 
the Zion side was quite dry. We walked to another 
well, which bears the name of Joab and Nehemiah. 
The water is conveyed into low stone cisterns, one 
of which is arched over. From there we proceeded 
up the Vale of Kedron, past the little village of 
Silwan, or Siloam, apparently inhabited by farmers ; 
and just at the corner of the hill is a patch of very 



234 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

green corn, enclosed by stone walls, and over- 
shadowed by fig-trees. I descended a flight of 
steps to the celebrated pool, where so many 
women were washing their faces, and men wading, 
that we were glad to beat a speedy retreat. How 
high above us towered the walls of Jerusalem ! I 
thought that here was an emblem of man's ap- 
proach to the heavenly country so often called 
Jerusalem. To approach the city from the south 
or east, you must go down, very far down, among the 
graves ; then you must mount, with those majestic 
walls towering above you all the while, as if invit- 
ing you to reach them." 

" Yes," said Violet. u I have no sympathy with 
those who say Damascus ought to have been the 
chosen city. Jerusalem is the most strikingly 
situated town I ever saw, and Zion must have 
been almost impregnable as a fortress before the 
invention of gunpowder. But where next did you 

go?" 

"A little further on we passed the rock-hewn 

tombs of James and of Zacharias ; a little further 

still is Absalom's pillar. The road was strewn with 

groups of Moslem pilgrims, male and female. Once 

I had to get into a corner to escape a troop of 

Turkish horsemen, who all bowed to me. On 

reaching Gethsemane, I thought I might as well 



GETHSEMANE. 235 

visit it A Latin monk stood on the terrace above, 
declaring that admission was impossible. 

" ' If I open to you,' he said, i such a crowd will 
come in, and destroy my flowers.' 

" Arraanous, however, persuaded him to call an- 
other monk, the 'fratello giardiniere.' A Greek priest, 
who could not speak Italian, made such funny pan- 
tomimic signs to obtain admission, that I could not 
refrain from laughing, in which laugh the Greek 
priest good-naturedly joined. In a corner were a 
number of pilgrims of both creeds, kissing the 
newly-mortared wall, and scratching out the mor- 
tar with their nails. 

"' This,' said the monk, ' is where our Saviour 
received the kiss of Judas.' 

u At length he opened the gate, and let me in. 
But how much I was disappoined ! How little is 
here to recall our ideas of Gethsemane 1 Why, it 
is planted in raised borders, fenced with white rail- 
ings, and blossoming with beds of wallflowers and 
marigolds in a style that would do credit to an 
English gardener. Even the seven old olives failed 
to awaken any sense of reverence in my mind. 
The monk gathered a bouquet of flowers for me, a 
heretic, while so many poor pilgrims could not get 
in to obtain one of their valued leaves. He then 
took us into the Grotto of the Agony, as it is 



236 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

called. The natural rock is white-washed, to pre- 
vent the pilgrims chipping it all away ; and though 
a chest of drawers does serve the purpose of an 
altar (not the principal one), I felt there was more 
probability about this being the place where our 
Saviour shed great drops of blood, and the disciples 
slept, than in the exposed garden." 

"My experiences were quite different," said 
Violet. " I could sit in the Garden of Gethse- 
mane for hours. It is to me a very solemn spot. 
I have purchased a great many seeds from the 
monk." 

" Violet has been to the Church of the Sepul- 
chre," said Edith. 

" I went there with Esa. You know I do not 
share Agnes's doubts about its genuineness. The 
area in front was crowded with vendors of rosaries, 
&c, squatted on the ground, and with pilgrims of 
all sexes and ages. A Turkish guard of soldiers 
kept the door. So many pilgrims were crawling 
in, and kissing a stone, that I of course concluded 
this must be the sepulchre. I gazed on it with in- 
tense reverence, when Esa said, 

" L Have you finished now ?' 

" i Is not that our Lord's burial-place ? ' asked 
I. 

" i No, it's only the place where they washed His 



THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 237 

body, and over there the Virgin and St. John 
stood.' 

"I walked further in, and thought I had at 
length found, it as Yakoub rushed forward to kiss 
a stone. I was trying to recall my former feelings, 
when Esa said, 

" ' That's only the centre of the earth.' " 
u But from what do they take that idea ?" 
u From Delphi, perhaps," said Agnes. " Or from 
the verse, ' Working salvation in the midst of the 
earth.' But did you not see Adam's skull, which 
leapt there during the earthquake ; nor a painting 
of the crucifixion, with the skull under the cross, 
red with drops of blood ?" 

" I saw many things, such as the rent rock, to 
which I paid no attention. When I did reach the 
sepulchre, I had been so often disappointed that 
my reverence had vanished. It is covered with 
white marble, and over it many gold and silver 
lamps are suspended from the roof. I gave the 
priest a franc for showing it; he lighted some 
candles. Esa said I had made an offering. The 
sepulchre is in a small chapel, or shrine, in the 
centre of the Rotunda. One part of the chapel, 
which is twenty-six feet long by eighteen feet broad, 
contains the tomb, the other is called the Chapel of 
the Angel. The two are connected by a low passage, 



238 EASTERN PILGKIMS. 

which only admits one person at a time. In the wall 
of the outer chapel is a small round hole, from 
which they say the Holy Fire will be distributed. 

"Yes," saidAgnes, "I sawthehole. But I sincerely 
trust the Sepulchre is not genuine, for I should not 
like to think our Saviour's grave is so much de- 
secrated. The odour from so many dirty pilgrims 
makes the whole place resemble the crowded cabin 
of a steamboat." 

"I saw a crown of thorns," said Edith. "I 
asked if that was the real crown, and Esa re- 
plied — 

" ' No, but if any pilgrim comes who wants 
to see the real crown, they just show him 
that." 

" But there are two graves hewn in the rock," 
said Violet. " They are said to be those of Nico- 
demus and Joseph. Do thej 7 not show that it was 
a place of graves ?" 

" Possibly," said Agnes, " unless the monks made 
them on purpose. All depends on the course of 
the second wall ; for it is certain that our Saviour 
suffered without the gate. And it is true that the 
city has gradually moved southwards on that 
side." 

" How I wish," said Edith, " that there were less 
of human invention here ! Truly the monks have 



SALVATION THROUGH A RISEN SAVIOUR. 239 

made the Word of God of none effect through their 
traditions." 

" Well, it does not matter," said Violet. " Let 
us be sure that salvation is ours through a risen 
Saviour, and such speculations will affect us 
little." 



240 



CHAPTER XI. 



A RIDE TO BETHANY. 



WE started at half-past four in the afternoon for 
a ride to Bethany. We went out by the 
Damascus Gate, and proceeded by a very up-and- 
down road to the north-east corner of the wall, 

where we met Mr. C , looking very pale and 

worn-out. He said that the previous day he had 
been attacked by robbers, on his way from the 
Dead Sea to the Jordan, that his guard had shot 
a Bedouin, and that one of his muleteers was hurt 
by the sticks that were thrown. 

His dragoman did the fighting, and told him to 
gallop off quickly towards Erika. It seems that 
the tribes across the Jordan have been very quiet 
of late years, because one of their sheikhs has 
been detained for a certain time at Damascus as 
a hostage for their good behaviour. The time 
fixed for his liberation had passed, the government 



VIEW FROM A MINARET. 241 

had broken faith, and the Moabites were bent on 
reprisals. 

We passed Gethsemane, and rode up the steep 
side of Olivet, taking the road that David took in 
flying from Absalom. On reaching the summit of 
the hill, we were asked to go into the mosque of 
the Ascension. 

" No, I thank you," said Agnes, " it occupies the 
wrong site. The Scripture says : ' And He led them 
out as far as to Bethany.' " 

We ascended a little minaret, from which we had 
a glorious view. Before us lay the city, with 
its domes and minarets, the highest part being 
the dome of the Sepulchre. Jerusalem is built on 
an elevated platform, separated on the south and 
east froip the surrounding hills by deep valleys. 
The platform slopes downwards from west to east, 
so that Moriah, although its Haram walls frown 
over the valley of Jehoshaphat, is considerably 
lower than Akra and Zion. The Tyropean valley 
which separated Zion from Moriah, is now so much 
filled up as to be scarcely distinguishable. We 
could see the Haram area very distinctly; the 
Mosques of Omar and El Aksa, with their black 
domes, and the green grass and trees with which 
they are surrounded. 

The Mosque of Omar is built on a very large, 

R 



242 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

elevated platform, now paved with smooth stones ; 
which was no doubt the site of the Temple. 

The view towards the west was even more 
grand. Ranges of purple mountains and deep 
wadys ran down towards the silver mirror of the 
Dead Sea ; while beyond it the mountains of Moab, 
bathed in the light of the setting sun, reared their 
stern brows in bold defiance. 

We descended to Bethany by a frightful road, 
and had to dismount on account of the rocky ob- 
structions on our pathway. We stopped at the 
mouth of the so-called tomb of Lazarus, and saw 
the house of Martha and Mary, and the house of 
Simon the Leper. The latter is on the crest of an 
eminence overlooking the village. Nothing can 
exceed the calm beauty of the view as you ap- 
proach Bethany on the north side. The rough 
mountains, with green meadows and greener apri- 
cot trees nestling in every depression, and the 
solitude of the path, as soon as the Holy City is 
hid from view, seem well suited for the contem- 
plation of Him whose blessed feet have trod this 
ground so often. And when we reach Bethany, 
and our eyes wander over bare mountain ranges 
down to that wonderful basin where lie the blue 
waters — a region that looks as if some hot blast 
had scorched it — we cannot but wonder that two 



DAMASCUS GATE. 243 

scenes so commemorative of divine love and divine 
justice should have been brought so close together. 
The birthplace, the early home, and the later 
heart-home of the Saviour, were chosen amidst the 
loveliest scenes of nature. 

Twice before reaching the shoulder of Olivet 
does the Holy City appear in sight, being again 
lost as you cross the head of a deep valley. Either 
of these spots must be that where Jesus wept over 
its coming destruction. We descended by the 
" Hosanna Road," wound up the valley of Jeho- 
shaphat by the " very stone where Stephen kneel- 
ed," found the St. Stephen's Gate closed, and wan- 
dered round to that of Damascus. It was likewise 
closed, but was opened by the magic of a silver 
key. 



r2 



244 



CHAPTER XII. 

A VISIT TO THE CAVE OF ADULLAM. 

TO visit the Cave of Adullam is no easy matter. 
Situated in one of the wildest parts of the 
wilderness of Judea, in a district now occupied by 
the lawless tribe of the Ta'amirah, it is rarely visit- 
ed by ordinary tourists, although it does not lie far 
out of the frequented routes from Jerusalem to 
Hebron and to Mar Saba. Armanous showed great 
unwillingness^to conduct us thither. 

" Travellers never go that way — it's a frightful 
road," said he. 

" We must attempt it," said Agnes, " and turn, 
if we find it too difficult." 

So, on a sultry April morning, we started from 

■ 

Jerusalem at nine a.m, and had a two hours 1 ride 
past Mar Elias, and along a green hill-side as far 
as Bethlehem. We stopped for a few minutes at 
the Convent to get a handsome old sheikh of the 



\ 



VALLEY OF ADULLAM. 245 



Ta'amirah as guard, and then proceeded past the 
well, taking a sip of the deliriously sweet water 
Bang David longed for, and descended by an al- 
most perpendicular path, covered with large stones, 
to the bottom of the deep Wady Urtas. We then 
rode up a hill where there was no path at all, and 
where our horses clambered over .rocks at the 
risk of their necks. Violet went first, on her fa- 
vourite horse Saul, in whose intelligent choice of a 
path she had a thorough trust. His feet once 
slipped, just as he was on the edge of a smooth 
rock, causing both Armanous and Agnes great alarm 
for the safety of his rider. Rounding a lofty sum- 
mit, and skirting the base of a conical hill, called 
the Frank mountain (on whose top Herod lies 
buried), we descended again into a deep narrow 
valley, called the Valley of Adullam, with a dry, 
stony torrent-bed at the bottom. 

Not a human habitation was visible after we left 
Bethlehem. Yakoub amused himself firing at 
birds by the way. Every few minutes a Bedouin 
emerged from some scanty cornfield to join our 
party. They were all dfessecL in black and white 
striped abbayas, and yellow turbans, and carried 
very long brass-bound guns. We then rode up 
a steep rocky hill, I don't know how, and at 
length came in sight of a narrow but magnifi- 



9 

/. 



246 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

cently wild pass. Steep crags frowned on either 
side, and at the further end we had a glimpse of 
the Dead Sea. We descended one side on foot to 
where a semi-circle of crags afforded an excellent 
shade for our lunch. Our carpet was spread on a 
rocky platform, while a dozen armed Bedouins, 
who had followed us, sat around. A little water 
trickled down through festoons of the maiden-hair 
fern to a brackish well close beside us ; and below 
us was a precipice sinking sheer down into Wady 
Khureitin, Our sheikh, our Jewish guide Esa, 
Armanous, and Yakoub busied themselves firing off 
their guns and pistols to let us hear the echo, and 
frighten any prowling robbers. The caves in the 
range of cliffs across the valley are, since the in- 
vasion of Mohammed Ali, used by the peasants for 
storing their grain, etc. 

After lunch, we went, accompanied by Esa, 
Yakoub, and some Bedouins, to explore the 
cave, which was situated in the cliff above our 
heads. We could see a small opening in the 
rocks as we passed below. Little did we dream 
of the trouble we Should have to reach that open- 
ing ! We passed along a narrow ledge, were as- 
sisted over some immense detached rocks, and at 
length reached a spot where a huge boulder had 
fallen across the path, beneath a projecting cliff, so 



CAVE OF ADULLAM. 247 

as only to leave a narrow passage between itself and 
this overhanging roof. Violet and Edith turned, but 
Agnes, half dragged by the Arabs, and half crawl- 
ing on her hands and knees, succeeded in clearing 
this obstacle. She entered the cave by jumping 
from a rock in front of it, and could immediately 
have fancied herself in some old, low-roofed cathe- 
dral, so beautiful were the natural pillars which 
supported the roof on every side. Squeezing 
through between some of them, they lighted 
candles, and traversing a long subterranean pas- 
sage, found themselves in a hall whose grandeur 
surpassed anything Agnes could imagine. Its size 
she did not know, but fancied it three times larger 
than the largest cavern she had seen in the salt 
mines of Berchtesgaden. The roof was immensely 
lofty, and the candles, together with burning paper, 
totally failed to light it up. Agnes looked down 
the pit, but had no thought of descending with a 
rope round her waist, more particularly after hear- 
ing Esa's declaration that it reached to Hebron. 
And this was actually the place where some of the 
Psalms were written. Well might David say, " Be 
thou my strong rock, for an house of defence to 
save me." "Thou hast set my feet in a large 
room." 

Agnes scrambled back the best way she could, 



248 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

and was relating her experiences, when Armanous 
brought forward the horses, saying, u It is time to 
mount." 

" But, Armanous, it is two o'clock ; the heat is 
too great to ride." 

" True, but we must get back early to Jerusa- 
lem, for you know it is dangerous to stay here, and 
the road is so bad." 

Violet hastened up the hill, but just as she was 
on the point of mounting her horse, she turned 
quite pale, and sank on the ground, overcome 
with fatigue and the extreme heat, but without 
fainting. Armanous and her friends thought she 
was dying. The sheikh and the Bedouins stood 
round, with faces of mingled curiosity and concern. 
We had no tent with us, and were two hours dis- 
tant from Bethlehem, in the midst of a turbulent 
tribe, and without a shelter from the glaring sun. 

" Lie still on the grass, Violet," said Agnes; "there 
is no need to hurry. We will hold our umbrellas 
over your head, and you can rest for an hour." 

In half an hour she felt better, and insisted on 
remounting. We reached Bethlehem by what Dr. 
Thomson calls "the vilest road in the world." 
We took a glass of syrup water in the comfortable 
refectory of the convent, and then visited the 
church of St. Catherine, from which, by a narrow 



PLACE OP OUR SAVIOUR'S BIRTH. 249 

stone staircase, we descended, taper in hand, to the 
study of Jerome, and to a chapel which has a pic- 
ture of this saint for an altarpiece. A few steps 
further brought us to another chapel, containing 
his tomb, the body having been removed to Santa 
Maria Maggiore in Rome. Opposite are the tombs 
of Paula and Eustachia, and in a passage a little 
further on is that of Eusebius. On we went, until 
we reached a chapel lit by numberless lamps de- 
pending from the ceiling ; and beneath an altar, 
which was flanked by two staircases leading from 
the Greek and Armenian portions of the chapel of 
Helena, we were shown the precise spot where 
our Saviour was born, and over which the star 
stood. At the side of this is a low cave, the natu- 
ral rock of which is covered by tapestry. It con- 
tains an altar, and is said to occupy the place of the 
manger. 

" Each sect has got its own piece of that relic," 
whispered Edith. 

The altar-piece is very fine, representing an 
angel speaking to Joseph, and pointing to the 
virgin and child, who are seated on a donkey, 
with their faces towards Egypt. The Greek church 
is very gaudily decorated, and the rich old mosaics 
of the Armenian church are almost all whitewashed 
over. 



250 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

The sun set as we reached Mar Elias, and there 
we met our friend the Italian doctor. He rode a 
white donkey, about thirteen hands high. 

" Where is your beautiful horse ?" asked Edith. 

" I have been in trouble with him. The Greek 
he kicked at Jaffa is dead, and I have sent him 
away to be trained. This animal comes from 
Babylonia." 

We crossed the plain of Rephaim, and rode 
through the Jaffa gate by moonlight. 



251 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE MOHAMMEDAN PILGRIMS. 

THE Moslems have an annual procession of 
pilgrims to the Mosque of Omar, and also to 
Neby Musa, the so-called tomb of Moses, situated 
on the way to the Dead Sea. We climbed to the 
top of the wall near St. Stephen's Gate to have a 
sight of it. The road down into the valley of 
Jehoshaphat was lined on either side with crowds 
of Turkish and Jewish women, whose white veils 
and white or blue umbrellas glittered in the sun- 
beams. Nearer the gate was a small body of 
Turkish soldiers in the centre of the road, whilst 
men and children of every description crowded 
amongst the tombs. A small cannon on the brow 
of the hill overlooking the valley sent forth an oc- 
casional boom, while along the road to Bethany 
we could see the procession moving, with its green 
and red banners. On reaching some olive-trees 



252 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

it turned, and disappeared from view in the 
deep valley. At length it slowly reappeared 
on the steep hill-side, and came marching up to 
the gate. As it approached, a mounted officer 
struck about the crowd with his " goorbash." 
Several men received severe blows, and some wo- 
men were nearly killed in leaping from a wall to 
escape him. 

But to the procession. First came a troop of 
mounted soldiers; then, at a short distance, another 
troop, with drawn swords, on foot; next, the 
Pasha on horseback, dressed in purple, and fol- 
lowed by his two sons ; then other horsemen, and 
the sheikh of the pilgrims, a man with a long grey 
beard, carrying a mace. He and the Pasha ex- 
changed salutes with all whom they passed. The 
soldiers presented arms, and a wild music came 
pealing up from the valley. We could not help feel- 
ing deeply as we thought what a different procession 
once came up that steep path to the identical spot 
in the Haram enclosure at the time it was firsts con- 
secrated. What different music — what a different 
refrain then resounded from the green sides of 
Olivet ! " Then hear Thou in heaven, and forgive 
the sins of Thy people, of Thy people Israel." 

Alas ! the change is a terrible one. The abomi- 
nation of desolation, the symbol of the destroying 



ROAD TO BETHANY. 253 

Turkish power, stands now where stood the glori- 
ous Temple ; and where once the Shekinah rested, 
will these people perform their profane orgies. 
But louder music waked us from our reverie. 
The people seemed to grow frantic. The banners, 
each representing one of the four sects of Islam- 
ism, had reached the top of the hill, and before 
them the people were beating their hands noisily 
together, and jumping in a paroxysm of frenzy. A 
man with a clubbed stick stood over each group, 
to encourage them in this strange worship. Drums 
were beaten, and every rude instrument imaginable 
lent its heathenish voice to the chorus. These 
ceremonies continued as they passed the gate, and 
crowded by every entrance into the sacred enclo- 
sure, of which we had a commanding view from 
our elevated position. 

Many a procession and many a crowd has 
thronged that beautiful ravine since the days of 
Solomon. Our Saviour descended into it from 
Bethany, and ascended, probably to this very gate, 
amidst the hosannas of an adoring multitude. 
There tradition says Stephen was stoned; there 
more than once the Apostle Peter must have 
harangued his countrymen ; there Titus wept to 
see the bed of the Kidron so full of dead bodies. 
And another spectacle may not be far distant, 



254 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

when, we are told, the feet of our Saviour shall 
stand on the Mount of Olives. We went away re- 
peating a verse of the hymn — 

" How long the Holy City- 
Shall heathen feet profane? 
Return, O Lord, in pity — 
Rebuild her walls again." 



255 



CHAPTER XIV. 

PALM SUNDAY, AND MIZPBH. 

"mO-MORROW is the Greek Palm Sunday," 

J- said Armanous. " If you can be ready at 
six, I will take you to the church, and show you 
the ceremony," 

Agnes descended at six next morning, but nei- 
ther Armanous nor Yakoub nor Esa was visible. 
At seven she was joined by Edith. Both began to 
be much displeased. 

" Armanous is very religious," said Mr. T\, the 
landlord. " I didn't think he would have forgot- 
ten himself, however. But I'll take you to the 
church, and perhaps we shall find him." 

The church was crowded with people. We 
could only get sight of banners and palm branches 
moving amid a sea of heads, and were glad to beat 
a retreat. 

After breakfast we hired another dragoman to 



256 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

take us to the English church. We were very 
anxious as to what this conduct of Armanous' 
might mean, and felt somewhat inclined to ask 
advice from the Consul, who was present at the 
service. At six p.m. Armanous appeared, and 
made many humble apologies. He had gone to 
the church, and in a fit of religious enthusiasm 
forgotten all about us. He had given no orders to 
Yakoub or Esa. 

Next day we started early for Neby Samwil, 
the modern representative of the ancient Mizpeh. 
We crossed over hill and dale by a stony road, and 
clambered to the top of a lofty peak. 

" Samuel could not have chosen a better spot 
for the gathering of the people," said Edith ; " it 
towers above the neighbouring hills like Saul above 
the heads of the people." 

It is crowned by ancient ruins, amongst which 
are those of a Crusader's convent and church. 
Climbing a minaret, we had a magnificent view of 
the whole of Central Palestine. At our feet lay 
the grassy Wady Beit Hanina, with a village of the 
same name. Further south, we saw Bethlehem 
and the Frank mountain. Away in the west rose 
the hill of Bethhoron, with the plain of Philistia 
beyond, on which we could dimly discover three 
white specks, Ramleh, Lydda, and Joppa. To the 



HISTORICAL LOCALITIES. 257 

north-east is a deep round basin, with a flat-topped 
hill in the centre, on which hill stands El Jib, the 
Gibeon of Scripture. Further north we saw Ata- 
roth and Beeroth. To the north-east are the hills 
of Ophrah and Rimraon ; to the east is Ramah, and 
to the south-east are the mountains of Moab. We 
descended a steep slope, and had again a short 
climb to El Jib, the famous city, whose inhabitants 
played such a trick on Joshua. This little fertile 
basin is superb in its colouring. Red fields on one 
side, green fields on the other, and in the centre 
the rocky eminence once stained with the blood of 
Asahel and Amasa. 

A short ride brought us to Er Ram, or Ramah, 
near which Deborah lived. We lunched beneath 
some olive-trees at the foot of a hill on whose 
summit stands Tuleil-el-Ful, once called Gibeah of 
Saul. On leaving Tuleil-el-Ful, we passed close to 
the site of Nob, once the sacred city of the priests, 
destroyed by Saul. It is separated from Tuleil-el- 
Ful by a pretty green valley, the scene of the 
meeting between David and Jonathan. We crossed 
the ridge of Scopus, from which Titus beheld the 
destruction of the beautiful city. 

" It must be, 
And yet it moves me, Romans ; it confounds 
The counsels of my firm philosophy, 
That Ruin's merciless plqughshare must pass o'er. 
And barren salt be strewn on yon proud city." 

S 



258 



CHAPTER XV. 

« 

THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 

VERY anxious were our consultations before 
we decided on visiting Jericho. Mr. C.'s ad- 
venture had somewhat alarmed us. 

" If there is any real danger," said Agnes, " I 
am quite sure Mr. Moore would say so. Armanous 
is not in the least afraid, provided our escort be 
sufficiently strong. Besides, an American party 
has been there, and returned last week. It is true 
they were mostly gentlemen ; but gentlemen who 
are unacquainted with firearms are as helpless as 
we. 

" And the lady is very ill with fever/' said Vio- 
let. " They say much of the illness in Jerusalem 
is caused by the heated air being wafted here from 
the surface of the lake. Mrs. — was nearly 
eaten up by mosquitoes, and she says the drago- 
man and the escort rode before them amongst the 
bushes with their pistols cocked." 



START ON A JOURNEY TO JERICHO. 259 

" And yet she says she would do it again, did 
she visit Jerusalem a second time," said Edith. 
"They were so thirsty during their ride from 
Jericho to Mar Saba, that one of them was fain to 
drink of a stagnant pool in which a Bedouin had 
just washed himself." 

u We may never again have the opportunity," 
said Agnes. " I am strongly inclined to risk it. 
But you, Violet, would be better to remain quietly 
here. You have never looked quite so strong 
since your visit to Khureitin, and it would be a 
very serious thing were you to take ill at Jericho. 
Armanous has arranged for us to make the journey 
in four days, so it will not be so fatiguing. Be- 
sides, you are such a martyr to mosquitoes, that 
you might not be able afterwards for the journey 
to Damascus." 

" I shall be better here," said Violet, " and wish 
I could persuade you to stay also. I have seen 
the Dead Sea from the summit of Olivet. What 
sort of escort has Armanous engaged ?" 

" The son of the sheikh who commands the gar- 
rison at Eriha " said Edith. 

We started at 6 # 15 on the morning of the 28th 
April, accompanied by the sheikh, Armanous, and 
Sa'ad, our chief muleteer. Yakoub and three sol- 
diers protected the baggage, Esa remaining behind to 

s2 



260 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

attend on Violet. The sheikh wore a narrow striped 
cotton shirt, and a tight vest with hanging sleeves. 
The black and white abbaya which he put on occa- 
sionally, and in which he slept, was embroidered 
with purple, and his horse was decked with long 
purple fringes. He wore a richly-mounted sword, 
with a silver-wrought scabbard. 

We had a glorious view of Jerusalem as we 
wound round the shoulder of Olivet by the Ho- 
sanna road. Several showers fell before we were 
fairly on the descent beyond Bethany. For this we 
were thankful, as we knew it would make the air 
cooler. Half an hour brought us to the fountain 
Ain-el-Duad. Under a ruin near it some Turkish 
soldiers were squatting, while strings of Moslem 
pilgrims were wending their way back from Neby 
Musa. Some of the women seemed capital riders ; 
others were slung by couples in a pair of crates 
over a mule's back. Children were either carried 
in this manner, or in their mother s arms. Here 
might be seen two women on one horse ; there a 
dozen on foot, singing to keep up their spirits. 
Occasionally green banners were born$ aloft ; occa- 
sionally a procession of drummers crossed our path. 
We felt safe until we had passed the junction of 
our road with that to Neby Musa ; but after pass- 
ing that, the sheikh and Armanous unslung their 



WADY-EL-KELT. 261 

guns, and rode to the top of every little eminence, 
to see that no Bedouin robbers were prowling 
about. At one place four paths met, and each 
path seemed more full of overhanging rocks and 
dark caverns than its neighbour. The sheikh 
peeped round every corner, and at length fired off 
his pistol at a bird. 

" For every step the robber takes forward he 
takes two back," said Armanous. 

The path till now had been pretty good. The val- 
ley was rudely sown with barley, amongst which a 
few empty-headed Qats appeared. Now the path 
became rugged, winding amidst craggy hills, whose 
sides were scorched by the powerful sunshine* At 
length blackened hills appeared beyond them, and 
far away down we could see the blue waters of the 
lake. A careful look-out had to be kept in many 
places. We passed a ruined khan, supposed to be 
the site of En Shemish, and over chalky hills and 
chalky roads we descended, till at length we found 
ourselves on the brink of a most sublime ravine — 
Wady-el-Kelt, or the brook Cherith. Its sides are 
pierced with numberless caverns, once the home of 
the raven- visited prophet Elijah, and more recently 
of penance-doing anchorites. It is also the valley 
of Achor, where Achan was stoned. A door of 
hope it certainly was not to us, as now the sun 



262 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

began to break through the clouds, and pour down 
a flood of radiance on the white path before us. 
The only spot of verdure we could see was a bright 
strip away down— ever so far down — where the 
brook ran ; and very thankful indeed we were to 
reach the plain, cross the brook, and stop for lunch 
under the shade of a hill near Ain-es-Sultan 
(Elisha's fountain). We did not need the ravens 
to feed us, and our horses were glad to crop the 
withered grass, which was, in reality, growing hay. 
The wind blew our habitation twice down on our 
heads, leaving us rather a ludicrous spectacle. 

After lunch we rode through thickets of olean- 
der bushes to Ain-es-Sultan. Its bubbling waters 
come trickling out from amongst tangled bushes, 
and wander over the plain, fertilizing all the coun- 
try round Eriha. Close to the fountain are the 
shapeless ruins of Old Jericho. We next rode 
through barley-fields, very rich, and almost ripe, 
and arrived at our tents, which were pitched near 
Eriha, the modern representative of New Jericho. 
It is a very miserable village, with a rude fort ; but 
we were glad to see some sign of life in such a de- 
sert. The complexion of its inhabitants is very 
dark. 

The view from our tents was extremely interest- 
ing. We were encamped close to some fine fir- 



BIHA. 263 

trees, in a desolate plain, along which ran a strip 
of the richest green verdure, marking the track of 
water from fountain to lake. North and west 
were the burnt-looking mountains of Judah ; south 
was the blue lake of death, and east the mountains 
of Moab, like an unbroken rampart. Behind us, 
amongst other blackened peaks, was the hill of 
Quarantania, scene of the Temptation, so graphi- 
cally described by Milton. Riha, the spot of our 
encampment, is supposed to occupy the site of Gil- 
gal, where the Israelites encamped before they 
attacked Jericho. As Old Jericho was at Ain-es- 
Sultan, some fifteen minutes' ride distant, they 
must have been pretty near its walls. The water 
of Ain-es-Sultan is deliriously sweet. 

We rose at three next morning, and started at 
five, just as the sun rose behind the mountains of 
Moab. We were preceded by three soldiers on 
foot, with guns and pistols, who peeped into every 
bush and round every mound in search of " Moab- 
ites." The sheikh and Armanous followed, carry- 
ing guns ; Edith and Agnes rode next, while Ya- 
koub and Sa'ad, armed with pistols, guarded the 
rear. For an hour we rode across a sandy plain, 
sprinkled with low, thorny shrubs, dried grass, and 
a kind of hardy moss, so red as sometimes to re- 
semble great streaks of blood. The soil is very 



264 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

chalky. The Dead Sea, though it looked so near, 
was really some six miles distant. We watched 
the morning shadows flit over the hills of Judea 
and Moab, and at length reached a spot where the 
plain suddenly sinks and runs into low sandy hills. 
Sometimes the soil was broken into curious forms 
by deep miniature valleys running towards the 
lake ; sometimes it was blackened by the burning 
of the dry grass; and at last shrub, grass, and 
moss all disappeared, and a worse than Egyptian 
desolation lay before us. Riding along barren 
sand and oozy mud, we arrived at the shore of the 
lake, whose borders were lined with drift timber 
brought down by the Jordan. The waves were 
breaking so wildly on the shore that we could 
scarcely get our tins filled. The sheikh picked up 
a little Jordan fish, ready salted and dried, which 
Edith hoped to bring home to London. 

We dared not stay long, but after waiting fifteen 
minutes we remounted, and set off in an easterly 
direction. We passed, amid a tract of low sand- 
hills, the spot where Mr. C. was attacked a few 
days previously, and where the marks of horses' 
hoofs bore abundant evidence to the excitement of 
the milie. An hour's ride brought us to the mouth 
of the Jordan. Its opposite bank was lined with 
delicately lovely green shrubs, oleander, tamarisk, 



THE JORDAN. 265 

and willow, forming a brilliant contrast to the de- 
solation around. We were surprised to see the 
river so narrow near its mouth, but a few minutes' 
farther ride brought us to the spot where the 
Greek pilgrims usually bathe. There the Jordan 
is much broader, and very deep, lined on either 
side with green trees and shrubs. We rested for 
some time on a carpet by its banks, gazing on the 
stream which has thrice been miraculously divided — 
by Joshua, by Elijah, and by Elisha — and meditat- 
ing on our Saviour's baptism. The sheikh twisted 
together some evergreen branches for us ; they had 
no blessing other than what they had received 
from their Creator's hand — the blessing of the cool 
breeze and the bright sunshine ; and we questioned 
if the blessing of patriarch or of priest could have 
made them more lovely. The river was full, not 
overflowing its banks, though " Jordan overfloweth 
all his banks in the time of harvest," and this was 
the time of barley harvest ; but some banks must 
then have been submerged which are dry in sum- 
mer, and the rapidity with which it flows must 
have worn down its clayey bed since Joshua's time, 
so as to make the channel narrower and more con- 
fined. The destruction of the forests which once 
clothed the hills of Lebanon and Galilee has pro- 
bably diminished the volume of the water. This 



266 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

river would be no despicable barrier to the Israel- 
ites, who had no other stream to compare it with, 
except the Nile. Emblem of death ! like thee, 
have not many found that stream more smiling than 
they expected, and not so formidable ? When we 
and ours come to the brink of that river, may we 
find it as pleasantly surrounded as thou art ! 

A short ride through the bushes, and a long one 
over the sandy plain, brought us back to our tents, 
very thankful to have seen nothing of the " Moab- 
ites." The wind was very cold, blowing from the 
lake. It filled our tents with a nasty black dust. 
Edith made a note of the time we spent : — 

" Left the tents at 5 a.m. Reached the Dead 
Sea at 6.45. Left the Dead Sea at 7. Reached 
the Jordan at 8.6. Left the Jordan at 8.35. 
Reached the tents at 10 a.m." 

After dinner (6 p.m.) our escort invited us to see 
a dancing performance. We sat at our tent door 
with no other light than that of the stars, aided by 
paper lanterns held in the hands of two pictur- 
esquely-dressed muleteers. Six men stood up in a 
row, while a seventh, clad in a loose white dress, 
stood before them with a glittering sword. The 
dance seemed to consist in clapping their hands in 
measured time, bending as they did so, sometimes 
quite to the ground, while the leader brandished his 



PICTURESQUE CARAVAN. 267 

sword, swung it round his head and over their heads 
in a mo3t graceful manner. Sometimes all their 
voices mingled in a peculiar song whose solo parts 
were executed by the swordsman. The excellence 
of this sort of dance consists in moving the muscles 
of the body without moving the feet. The gift of 
baksheesh made them all bow very low ; and their 
" Ketter herrick ketteer," were the last words we 
heard for the day. 

We rose at three next morning, and had to wait 
an hour to see our luggage packed and loaded, as Ar- 
manous had decreed that we should accompany it, for 
the convenience of keeping all our escort together. 
We sat on a rolled-up tent and watched the pro- 
cess, and then set off across the plain, a most pictur- 
esque caravan. Nothing grew at our feet but dried 
grass and clumps of a tall hardy heather. 

Soon we began to ascend hills where the vegeta- 
tion was similar, and wound our way upwards for 
two hours, getting glorious glimpses on either side 
of us. The mountains do indeed look as if they 
had been upheaved and twisted into many a fantas- 
tic form by some terrible convulsion, and as if fire 
had then passed over their blackened summits. 
Crag on crag was piled up in wild desolation, gorge 
after gorge wound its tortuous way amid precipices 
of rock ; while on either side, far as the eye could 



268 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

reach, similarly confused mountain ridges stretched 
onward and downward towards the lake. 

At length we reached a high plain, and whilst our 
horses were enjoying a gallop Armanous rode up 
and said, 

"I have something to disclose to you, Miss 
Agnes." 

" Well, Armanous, what is it ?" 

" There w^is a murder at Riha the day before 
we arrived. Miss Violet will be anxious if the news 
has reached Jerusalem. A party of six Arabs, 
bringing corn from Khureitin, and carrying guns, 
had gone to sleep near Ain-es-Sultan. The two who 
screamed were killed ; other two badly wounded ; 
and other two carried off blindfolded to a distance, 
whence they found their way back to tell the tale. I 
saw the corpses and the wounded men when we ar- 
rived at Riha, and I was dreadfully frightened; 
but I did not tell you, for I liked to see you enjoy- 
ing yourselves. The father of our sheikh gave us 
three extra guards at night. Yakoub and I took it 
in turns to keep awake." 

" Thank you, Armanous ; it was very considerate 
of you not to tell us," said Edith. " How thankful 
we are to be out of danger !" 

We passed Neby Musa, where is a mosque, sup- 
posed by the Turks to be built over the tomb of 



CONVENT OP MAR SABA. 269 

Moses. A road to Jerusalem branches off here, so 
we despatched a muleteer with a letter to Violet. 
We next passed a long building with three doors, 
under whose arches we could see a long sarcophagus. 
This is said to be the tomb of Moses' chief shep- 
herd. Leaving the plain, we soon began to ascend 
the mountains by a very steep path. Occasionally 
a sharp turn downhill tried the mettle of our steeds, 
and sent the riderless mules scampering off in all 
impossible directions, causing many an amusing 
chase. 

The greater part of the Dead Sea now became 
visible. Onward we went, round many a peak, 
and along many a wild hot valley, heedless of an 
occasional heavy shower, till at length we threaded 
a narrow rocky gorge, the most sublime we ever be- 
held, and found ourselves suddenly in sight of the 
Convent of Mar Saba. Admittance, of course, was 
out of the question. We lunched under the shade 
of Madame Ida Pfeiffer's tower, while several 
monks gazed at us from the roof; and our horses 
and mules were led through the frowning walls 
to have a drink at the well. Strange hospi- 
talitv ! 

Whilst we were at dinner, one of the monks 
paid Armanous a visit in quest of money. He wore 
a long blue coat and a high black hat. His pale 



270 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

regular Grecian features were much emaciated. He 
informed Armanous that they never eat meat, even 
at Easter. What a look of consternation he put on 
when Yakoub told him that the " sitteh " wished to 
offer him a cup of tea ! He answered that it was 
Good Friday, and he was fasting, and thereupon 
speedily departed. The sunset towards the Dead 
Sea, or rather its reflection on the hills, was sub- 
lime. The nearer range of white Judean hills 
glowed as in a furnace, while, beyond, the distant 
blue mountains of Moab seemed bathed in a soft 
splendour resembling moonlight. 

We took a stroll to look at the convent. It is 
built on one side of the deep, winding ravine, the 
foundations being in the very depth, and the top- 
most tower perched on the height. Quite a day's 
journey to mount the stairs ! Not even the Gemmi 
surpasses this ravine in wild sublimity. It winds, and 
winds, and winds round lofty hills of sheer, cave- 
pierced rock, and you might walk for hours without 
perceiving the end. The convent garden is in a nook 
where even a goat might fear to venture down, and 
the massive escarpments of the building are quite in 
keeping with its surroundings. 

Next morning we started at six, and rode for 
some distance along the valley of the Kidron, where 
mingled flocks of sheep and goats browsed peace- 



BETURN TO JERUSALEM. 271 

fully, reminding us of Him who had been such a 
good Shepherd^ to us. We. ascended to the top of 
a chalky hill, from which we had a view of two 
green-sprinkled valleys, over one of which towered 
the high conical peak of the Frank mountain. After 
winding round several hills, the towers of Jerusalem 
came in sight, and in an hour we were clambering 
up the steep side of Ophel. 

The first familiar face that greeted us in the city 
was that of Giacomo Certezza. We arrived at nine 
a.m., and had some hours' rest before witnessing the 
Holy Fire. 



272 



CHAPTER XVI. 



THE HOLY FIRE. 



"TTTHAT is the meaning of the Holy Fire?" 
VV asked Edith. 

" I suppose," said Violet, " that the Holy Ghost 
is supposed to descend as He did at Pentecost." 

" And the church lamps are lighted by this fire," 
said Agnes. " They are never allowed to go out until 
next Easter arrives. The Catholics once took part in 
it, although they now loudly denounce it as an im- 
posture. A few years ago the Armenian Patriarch 
informed his people that it was a deception, in which 
he did not intend any longer to take part. Yet the 
Armenians still occupy a prominent part in the pro- 
cessions. I suppose it is produced by burning 
spirts of wine ; just as the blood of St. Januarius is 
said to be a compound of coloured lard, swimming 
in ether. The ether melts the lard when brought 
near a candle, or held in a warm hand. But that 
miracle is harmless compared with this" 



CHAPEL OF THE SEPULCHRE. 273 

Dr. — — led us through some dark parts of the 
church, in the midst of an excited crowd, many of 
whom had slept there for several nights in the 
hope of securing a place near the sacred hole. The 
galleries were filled with women, many of whom 
had maintained their places since early morning. 
We were pulled with difficulty over some people 
seated on a small staircase, and over a projecting 
gallery into a cosy little chamber, furnished as a 
bed-room, with its window looking into the church, 
directly opposite that side of the small inner chapel 
from which the Holy Fire would be distributed. 
Here we found several of our friends from the con- 
vent. 

All round the chapel of the sepulchre surged an 
eager crowd, contending with strength of limb for 
the nearest places to the sacred hole. An old wo- 
man kept the best spot for five minutes. Occasion- 
ally a group of fighters, or a boisterous choir of 
singers, were dispersed by the appearance of the 
Turkish military governor with a powerful goor- 
bash, whose appearance cleared the space before 
him instantly. At one o'clock he made a passage 
with this offensive weapon, and Turkish soldiers 
completed the work by pressing their backs against 
the sea of human beings behind them, amongst 
whom were several women. 



274 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" Is it not dreadful to see such deception ?" said 
Violet, to a very bigoted Russian lady beside 
her 

" Oh ! we do not believe that/' answered the 
lady; "but the canaille want to see a spectacle, 
and would be angry if the priests did not give them 
it." 

Most of the men were dressed in white ; they 
were probably peasants, who had come from the far 
steppes of Russia. The Archbishop's aunt sat on 
the other side of Violet ; she kept constantly re- 
peating, " Fantasia, fantasia, che impostura !" 

We pitied most some unfortunate creatures who 
had got wedged into a sort of triangle between two 
lines of soldiery. ' These soldiers seemed bent on 
reducing the crowd into the smallest possible com- 
pass. Several furious attempts were made by the 
pilgrims to force the lines. Blows, kicks, and 
bayonet strokes were being lavishly exchanged, 
when the indefatigable governor appeared, half 
strangling some with his twisted whip, and dealing 
formidable blows to the ringleaders. We could not 
see that the recipients of these blows showed any 
signs of a pain which was no doubt amply com- 
pensated by the honours of martyrdom. One poor 
woman did all she could to get her son out of the 



HOLY FIRE. 275 

crowd ; but it was a vain task to allure the enthusi- 
astic youth to a place of safety. 

At a quarter to two the procession appeared, 
winding its way around the shrine between the 
lines of soldiery. It was greeted with clapping of 
hands arid noisy singing. Banners were borne in 
front by stalwart pilgrims, and a disgraceful fight 
took place for the possession of one banner. For 
ten minutes the sacred drapery was trampled under 
the feet of furious combatants, until summary jus- 
tice appeared in the shape of the goorbash. Next 
come the priests, three abreast, in silken robes of 
yellow and gold. In front walked, bare-headed, 
an emaciated old man ; in the centre tottered the 
aged patriarch, supported by two dark-robed 
priests. After making three rounds, the bare- 
headed old man was carried on the shoulders of 
the crowd to the sacred hole, where a thousand 
bared arras, holding immense candles, rose up in 
every direction. Hands were shaken wildly in 
invocation of the Holy Spirit, and the frenzy was 
increased tenfold when the aged priest suddenly 
rushed away from the hole with his candles light- 
ed. (The patriarch is supposed to have first re- 
ceived the fire in the sepulchre, which he enters 
unclothed, having disrobed in the Chapel of the 

t 2 



276 . EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Angel.) Then the bells pealed merrily, the clergy 
busied themselves with lighting all the lamps and 
candles of the church ; and as fresh candles were 
being kindled every four minutes at the hole, the 
happy bearers rushed away, while others crowded 
round them to light their candles. The first who 
gets the flame pays most, and it becomes cheaper 

a 

as it is distributed. 

" These priests outdo Simon Magus," remarked 
Edith, " for they profess to sell the influences of the 
Holy Spirit." 

Very often the fire was extinguished in too fran- 
tic efforts to obtain it. Soon the balconies and the 
whole body of the church glowed with the light of 
myriad torches. Men and women bathed their 
hands, their faces, their breasts in the flames, and 
it was a miracle indeed that a universal conflagra- 
tion did not ensue. The whole building was soon 
filled with a suffocating smoke, and we were on 
the point of retiring, when a magnificent procession 
arrested our attention. First came the Greek 
priests in their gorgeous robes, bearing appropri- 
ate symbols ; next the Armenians, equally grand, 
but with more variety of colour and less taste ; 
next, the swarthy Abyssinians ; and, last, the Copts. 
In front of the Coptic procession walked a priest 
bearing a large silver cross. On either side of him 



t .*. 



ARMANOUS AND YAKOUB. 277 

were two other priests, in robes of green and gold, 
jewelled breast-plates, and silver crowns. 

"Look, Violet!" exclaimed Edith, "these are 
Armanous and Yakoub." 

" Nonsense !" 

" But they really are our two dragomans. Don't 
you recognise their faces ?" 

The janissary made way for us through the 
crowd. Two hours afterwards Armanous appear- 
ed, in his usual sombre dress, and with his usual 
quiet manner asked if we wanted anything. 

"Ah! Armanous, how magnificent you looked 
in the procession !" said Violet. 

" Oh ! I did not think you would wait long 
enough to see me." 

He afterwards explained that his brother carried 
the cross. Both are deacons of the Coptic church, 
and Armanous hopes one day to become a priest. 
He had demanded to wear these robes as his right. 
Yakoub had paid twelve napoleons for permission 
to do so. We gave them leave of absence for 
Sunday morning ; they would spend the night in 
feasting. 

" That's not religion, you know," said Armanous. 

Some days after we had a discussion with them. 
Armanous said they used to worship pictures, and 
the priests would like them to do so still, but the 



278 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

people were getting a little more enlightened. We 
found he believed in transubstantiation, because 
our Saviour said of the bread, " This is my body." 
Violet explained that he only said so in the same 
figurative sense as he said, " I am the door." 

" Our Saviour's body is in heaven, Armanous — 
how can it be here for you to eat ?" 

" Well, Miss Violet, I've tried with all my heart 
to believe that it was the real body I ate, but I've 
found it very difficult to do so." 

" Yes, Armanous," said Violet, " it is just that 
sort of teaching that makes infidels." 

His version of the Ten Commandments was the 
same as ours. We were much amused at finding 
ourselves under the care of two Coptic priests. 

" If a union should take place between the 
Greek and Anglican churches," said Edith, "will 
the Anglican church send a representative to this 
crowning ceremony of her sister's faith ? Would 
the Dean of Westminster like to assist in the dis- 
tribution of the Holy Fire ?" 



279 



CHAPTER XVII. 

THE HAKAM AND THE HAREEM. 

" rS there anything I can show you in Jerusa- 

-L lem?" asked our kind friend Dr. L . 

" Have you seen the Haram ?" 

" No, but Armanous has got an order for us to 
see it on Monday. The Mohammedan pilgrims are 
gone, so we can be admitted." 

" Then I need not trouble myself. But I know 
what vou have not seen. You have not seen a 
hareem. I will show you one, if you come to ray 
house at two o'clock. To some I have admittance 
as a medical man ; to others my wife should take 

you." 

We thanked Dr. L for his kindness. 

We rose early on Monday morning to visit the 
Mosque of Omar, accompanied by a cawass from 
the Consulate. We entered by a gate near the 
north-west corner, and found ourselves in the grass- 



280 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

planted enclosure which occupies the site of the 
fortress of Antonia. 

Approaching the raised platform by a few stone 
steps, we put on our slippers, and traversed the 
ground levelled by Hadrian, and paved with smooth 
flagstones. The great Mosque is of an octagonal 
shape, with two pair of immense copper doors at east, 
west, north, and south. Close outside the eastern 
door is a porcelain-covered erection, called the 
Judgment Seat of David. It is an open tower, 
with six beautiful Corinthian pillars in the centre, 
and nine similar ones around them. The interior 
of the Mosque is encircled by immense double 
square marble-covered pillars, between each of 
which are two slender Corinthian ones. Near the 
top of these pillars runs a small gallery. Round 
the central rock are four similar large square pil- 
lars, with three Corinthian ones between each, 
making twelve small pillars in all. The roof of the 
Mosque is of exquisitely carved cedar wood. Light 
is admitted through small windows with tiny panes 
of richly-staiued glass. 

" Do you see this?" said Armanous, pointing 
to a square slab of marble in the floor with nails 
in it. u As these nails sink in, the Judgment Day 
approaches. They were placed here by Mohammed, 
and one disappears every hundred years. 



SACBED ROCK. 281 

" There are only three left," said Violet, trying 
to push them in. 

The great dome, though black on the outside, is 
a mass of rich mosaic within. The Sukra, or sacred 
rock, lies beneath it, surrounded by an elaborate 
railing, which was all stuck over with memorial 
rags of pilgrims. The saddle of Mohammed, the 
shield of his family, a casket containing some hairs 
of his whiskers, are all shown, but they fade into 
insignificance before the absorbing interest of the 
rock itself. We firmly believed it to be the site 
of the altar of burnt-offering. The Turks say that 
it has stood suspended in the air at the touch of the 
Prophet ; and that he ascended to heaven from the 
Noble Cave, through the hole which leads down to 
it. A few marks are shown as the print of the angel 
Gabriel's hand when he held down the rock to pre- 
vent it ascending after Mohammed. 

" It really needs no human support," said the 
sheikh, " but a wall has been built under it to allay 
the fears of the pilgrims who pass below. On the 
top it is rough and of an octagonal shape. At 
the western side is a considerable depression ; the 
northern side is also lower. Josephus calls it the 
' pierced rock.' 

We descended to the Noble Cave, and were 
shown the spot where David, Solomon, Abraham, 



282 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

and Mohammed prayed ; also the mark of Moham- 
med's head as he held the rock up. 

But one thing we felt to be certain. Either on 
the top of the rock, or in the cave beneath it, 
was the threshing-floor of Araunah the Jebusite, 
and probably the spot where Abraham offered up 
Isaac 

Through the hole in the top of the cave hung a 
lamp, and immediately beneath it is a well, covered 
by a marble slab. It is supposed by competent 
authorities that the hole was used for conveying 
away the blood of the sacrifices, and that the altar 
was cleansed with water from this well. 

What a feeling of awe does one experience when 
standing so near the spot where the Divine Pre- 
sence dwelt between the Cherubim. 

" How thankful I feel," said Edith, " that these 
hallowed spots are in the possession of the Mos- 
lems, who treat them with more real respect than 
do the priest-ridden Christians !" 

The ground beneath the Haram must be hollow, 
and filled with water from Solomon's pools. There 
are numerous wells sunk in the paved platform, 
which seemed to contain water ; also a large foun- 
tain in the grass before the Mosque El Aksa. Vio- 
let was very anxious that some learned explorer 
should discover whether there is not a living foun- 



MOSQUE EL AKSA. 283 

tain in the Haram area, which would help to ex- 
plain the imagery in Ezekiel xlii. 

We went down a flight of steps to an under- 
ground building below El Aksa, leading to the 
Horse Gate, through which the Crusaders entered 
Jerusalem. Here we saw some of the massive sub- 
structions of Solomon's Temple; though, unfortu- 
nately, whitewash has done much to conceal the 
fine bevelling of the Jewish stones. Four stones, 
in particular, placed one above another, attracted 
our admiration ; also the immense stone on the top 
of the gate. The temple, Josephus says, had gates 
about the middle, and here they are. 

The Mosque El Aksa was once the church of St. 
Mary, built by Justinian. On either side of the 
central aisle is a row of low Corinthian pillars, sur- 
mounted by Gothic arches. The dome is covered 
with rich mosaic, and the windows are similar to 
those of the larger mosque. An exquisitely-carved 
cedar pulpit was the gift of Salah-e-deen. Violet 
wished to mount it. but could not obtain permission 
from the sheikh, even by promising to give him a 
sermon. Here are shewn the footprints of the 
Saviour and of Moses, who never was on this side 
Jordan. Here are also two pillars very close to- 
gether. Passing between them is the test of future 
bliss — a test which we all endured satisfactorily. 



284 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Violet and Edith tried another test on the outside 
of the mosque. This consisted in kissing one slab 
of marble, and walking straight blindfold to an- 
other. Violet succeeded twice, but failed the third 
time. We next traversed, on the natural rock, the 
part where once stood the court of the Gentiles, 
and at the south-east corner we were shown the 
cradle of Jesus. 

" But I saw that already at Bethlehem," ex- 
claimed Edith. 

" Yes, but this was his cradle when he was eight 
years old." 

Entering a low building, and peering through a 
window, we got a glimpse of the three hundred 
arches built by Solomon beneath the Temple. The 
site of Solomon's porch interested us more than 
did Mohammed's judgment-seat. 

In the afternoon we called on Dr. and Mrs. L , 

according to appointment. They accompanied us 
to the house of one of their Moslem friends. Dr. 

L and Armanous left us at the door, as the 

gentleman was particularly strict. Mrs. L and 

we mounted a flight of stairs, and were shown by 
some black female slaves into a room with low 
divans against the walls. There three ladies re- 
ceived us, two of them being the wives and one 
the sister of the Effendi. They wore very prettily- 



THE EFFENDl's HAREEM. 285 

made gingham dresses, with gold chains and little 
gold chatelaines at their waists. Round their 
necks were pearl necklaces, and the principal wife 
had a handsome diamond star. The two wives 
live together in sisterly harmony. We tried in 
vain to understand each other's language. Mrs. 

L 's servant appeared at the door, and the 

three ladies ran immediatelv to hide behind it. 
They offered us sherbet and coffee. The sister 
prepared a cigarette, and handed it to Violet, who, 
instead of taking a whiff and passing it round, kept 
it to herself. While she was enjoying this rare 
luxury, the Effendi entered. His wives and sister 
rose, and stood until he was seated. He spoke 
English and French fluently, having been educated 
in Europe. 

" I am glad," he said to Violet, " to see that 
you can adapt yourself so easily to our customs. 
But I suppose you think they might be improved ?" 

"Well, I certainly cannot say I admire some of 
them." 

" You are quite right. I wish our ladies were 
as well educated as you are. But when you go 
home, you may tell your friends that their mis- 
sionaries do not do any good. They are too anxi- 
ous to make proselytes, and they do nothing to 
civilize." 



286 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

" Suppose you bring your wife to England," said 
Violet. " She will soon learn English, for we have 
already taught her a few words, and then she can 
come back and teach the other ladies our customs." 

Violet invited our hosts very cordially to visit 
her in England. She gave her card to the princi- 
pal lady, and endeavoured to show her the most 
respect. 

The Effendi accompanied us to the house of the 
Mufti, which was situated within the Haram enclo- 
sure. 

" It is strange to see Turks, Jews, and Christians 
walking together in Jerusalem," he remarked. 

" My dear Dr. L , you had this city once — we 

have it now." 

"And a pretty thing you have made of itl" 
thought Agnes. 

The Mufti had three wives. Each had a sepa- 
rate house, which had the honour of lodging him 
by turns. We went to the door of the principal 
wife. Dr. L was permitted to enter. 

" You are punished," said Violet, as he laughingly 
turned the Effendi back. 

We were received by a very lively lady, some- 
what negligently dressed in scarlet muslin drawers, 
and a yellow padded short jacket, fastened round 



EUROPEANS IN JERUSALEM. 287 

her waist by a girdle. Her hair hung down in 
long thin plaits, and she wore a coloured veil. 

She requested Dr. L to tell us that she wished 

to be civilized, and then offered us lemonade and 
narghilehs. She opened an immense chest, and 
brought out most of her dresses for inspection. At 
the top of the room stood a chair of Mohammed's, 
brought from Mecca. It was covered with a blue 
cloth embroidered in silver. The apartment served 
the united purposes of sleeping, cooking, and 
lounging. A pretty little woman, wearing a white 
veil, and carrying a baby, was introduced to us as 
another Lady Bishopess. She seemed quite un- 
conscious of her dignity. The Bishop future, a boy 
of ten, read to us passages of the Bible and of the 
Koran in Turkish. 

European ladies do not find it very pleasant 
to live in Jerusalem, as it is unhealthy, and they 
cannot walk unattended in the streets. 

There is one pianoforte in the city. Once there 
existed two ; but the happy possessors of the other 
tried to take it to Europe, and found that it was 
ruined whilst being carried on mules to Jaffa. In 
summer the consuls encamp in tents outside the 
walls. The Europeans do not mix freely in each 
other's society, owing to differences of creed. 



288 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

The Turks and the Jews will not give to English 
Protestants the title of Christians. 

" You are not Christians," say they, " you do not 
worship images, nor kiss the sepulchre, nor cross 
yourselves. You must be Mohammedans of another 
sect. We think too highly of you to give you such 
an insulting name. 19 

The lepers inhabit some wretched houses near 
the Zion Gate. Baron Rothschild has built an hos- 
pital for them, but they prefer to have liberty to 
marry amongst their own kind. 1 1 is impossible to 
conceive the hideous spectacle they present. An 
enthusiastic lady once attempted to cure them with 
the homoBopathic preparation of pulsaltilla; and 
they were so much disappointed when this remedy 
failed, that she was with difficulty rescued from ill- 
usage. 

Violet's health suffered somewhat from the damp- 
ness of her habitation, which was no worse than 
any other in Jerusalem. This dampness is caused 
by the existence of ancient underground cisterns, 
whose contents are readily sucked up by the por- 
ous stone of which the houses are built. She 
soon recovered when we again began to sleep in 
tents. 

Icannot conclude these reminiscencesof ourvisit to 
Jerusalem, without recording how much our enjoy- 



KAISEBSWERTH DEACONESSES. 289 

ment was enhanced by the great kindness shown 
us by the English Consul and Mrs. Moore. Nor 
can I avoid expressing my sincere conviction of how 
much a real and visible unity amongst Protestant 
Christians of every nation would recommend our faith 
to the descendants both of Israel and of Ishmael. I 
feel also bound to state, in the interest of missions, 
that none of the community seem more to enjoy the 
respect of all classes in Jerusalem than the Eaiser- 
swerth deaconesses. 



290 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



JERUSALEM TO DAMASCUS. 



OUR first night was spent at Beitin, or Bethel. 
On the way, after leaving Beeroth, we passed 
a cliff over which trickled a tiny stream called Ain- 
el-Akabah, embedded in pretty ferns. Close to it 
are some caves, supposed to be the sepulchres from 
which Josiah took the bones to pollute the Bethel 
altar. 

We took a ride in the afternoon to a verdant 
ridge, which was the camping-ground of Abraham 
and Lot before they separated. From this we 
mounted a rocky hill, and saw some ruins, an old 
well, and seven prostrate pillars. This was the site 
of Ai, and it commands a good view of the Dead 
Sea and its desolate ridges. Yakoub translated the 
stories of Lot's choice and of Joshua's victory, to 
Sa'ad and some villagers, who seemed to have no 
idea what made their home so interesting. 



SITE OP SHILOH. 291 

Next morning we rode through a narrow glen, 
shut in by high hills laid out in regular terraces, 
which are supported by walls of loose stone. Corn, 
olives, and fig-trees mingled in picturesque luxuri- 
ance up to their rocky summits. 

41 1 wish the Greek doctor saw this," said Violet. 
" Why is this district so different from that about 
Jerusalem ? There not a tree breaks the monotony 
of hill or valley." 

" Because it belonged to Ephraim," said Edith. 
" Do you not remember the promise : ' Joseph is a 
fruitful bough, even a fruitful bough by a well, 
whose branches run over the wall.' " 

Here we are at Ain el Haramiyeh, the " Rob- 
ber's Fountain." 

We rode over fields of green barley to the ruins 
of Seilun. A small tumble-down grey enclosure, 
surrounded by a few grey olives, and another en- 
closure at a little distance, shaded by a gigantic 
terebinth tree, is all that marks the site of Shiloh. 
We rode along a corn-covered valley, gay with wild 
flowers, and reached our camping-ground near the 
fountain Ain-el-Lubban, while above us, on a hill- 
top, stood the town of Lubban, the Lebonah of 
Scripture. 

Next morning we took the road by which our 
Saviour must have journeyed through Samaria to 

u2 



292 EASTERN PILGRIMS. . 

Galilee. We saw people ploughing the land for a 
crop of linseed and cotton. Here is, indeed, " no 
want of anything that is in the earth." Soon after 
we got our first glimpse of the snow-streaked sum- 
mit of Hermon. 

Whilst crossing the eastern spur of Gerizim, we 
suddenly descended to the plain, and rode up to a 
little stony mound. Edith dismounted. 

" I cannot ride where my Saviour walked," she 
said, and peered deep down into a rock-hewn well. 
This was the parcel of ground which Jacob bought 
of the sons of Shechem ; and smiling over it is the 
green and craggy Gerizim, crowned by a white 
building, where once stood the Samaritan Temple. 
How vividly the whole scene came before us at this 
place ! The weary traveller, and the wondering 
woman who pointed to that very mountain. Thrice 
blessed Traveller ! give us to drink of Thy living 
water ; and may we never forget that sweet lesson 
about those whom the Father seeks to worship 
Him! 

We remounted, and taking a glance at Joseph's 

r 

tomb, newly surrounded by the Samaritans with a 
wall, we entered the blooming valley which sepa- 
rates the twin mountains of Ebal and Gerizim. 

" How strangely their shapes correspond I" said 
Violet. "The rocks and projections are not alike, 






NABULUS. 293 

but the form of the ridges is exactly the same; 
every mound of the one answers to a mound of the 
other. These two little valleys which run so deep- 
ly into Ebal and Gerizim were the scene of the 
assembling of the Israelites after their entrance into 
the Promised Land, when six tribes stood on Ebal, 
and six on Gerizim, to hear the curses and bless- 
ings of the law pronounced by the Levites." 

44 Yes," answered Edith. " Ebal stands a silent 
witness of God's justice. His ancient people are 
suffering the very plagues with which these rocks 
resounded. May it soon be the turn of Gerizim 1" 

The little valley is a perfect orchard of olive- 
trees, so that we were almost at the gate of Nabu- 
lus, the ancient Shechem, or Sychar, before we saw 
it. Its houses are substantial ; its principal streets 
broad in comparison with those of Jerusalem. 

We were soon met by Jacob esh Shelaby, the 
self-styled chief of the Samaritans, who, though 
now only 150 in number, still, " in this mountain," 
maintain the peculiar faith and worship of their 
fathers. He said he knew that by remaining a 
Samaritan he made himself much more interesting. 
Violet vainly endeavoured to persuade him that it 
was possible for him to remain a Samaritan, and yet 
believe in Jesus. He cut short the discussion by re- 
plying, " I do not believe in the first prophet after 



294 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

Moses, so it is not likely I shall believe in the last." 
Under his guidance we visited the Samaritans 9 
synagogue, and saw their copy of the Pentateuch. 
We contributed something to the school, and also 
bestowed a napoleon on Jacob himself by way of 
" baksheesh," which we at first felt ashamed to offer 
to such a gentleman, until assured by Armanous 
that such gifts are his principal means of livelihood. 
We were detained next day by a thunderstorm ; 
and as soon as the sky cleared sufficiently, we 
rode to the top of Mount Gerizim. There we saw 
the spot where the Samaritans lately celebrated 
their passover, and had also a view of the plain of 
Mukhna to the east, and of a little plain which ran 
into the dark mountains beyond it, bearing the 
same relation to the great plain as the Crimea does 
to Russia. This is Shalem, or Salim, where Jacob 
encamped so long. Nothing can exceed the peace- 
ful beauty of Nablous, reposing amid its fig trees, 
olives, oranges, and pomegranates, as seen from 
the slopes of Gerizim. One might imagine that a 
Scotch mountain had suddenly stepped behind an 
Italian village. 

Next day the air was deliciously cool, and we 
rode to Samaria. No situation could have been 
better chosen for the capital of a great kingdom. 
It is built on the brow of a lofty isolated hill, sur- 



ESDRAELON. 295 

rounded by broad valleys, beyond which high 
mountains form a natural rampart for defence and 
watch. We counted sixty-nine standing columns, 
which must have belonged to some building run- 
ning along the brow of the hill. It would have a 
very imposing effect from the hills opposite. We 
lost our way before reaching Geba, where we spent 
Sunday. 

On Monday we continued our journey past the 
fortress of Sanur, the little plain of Dothan, and 
the gardens of Jenin ; then across the fertile plain 
of Esdraelon, or Megiddo, where not a tree breaks 
the monotony of hill or plain. This noble battle- 
field stretches in a wide semi-circle. Two ridges of 
mountains, running from east to west, divide it into 
three branches. The more northern is Jebel-ed- 
Duhy, or Little Hermon; the more southern is 
Mount Gilboa, famous in the story of Saul and 
Jonathan. On the low western spur of Gilboa 
stands Zera'in, or Jezreel, where we spent the 
night. 

The vegetation of Esdraelon is most luxuriant. 
We rode over many a wave of earth, sometimes 
through meadows of prickly yellow flowers, or 
along avenues of tall thistles, sometimes through 
cornfields and running streams. 

"Is it not strange," said Edith, " to think how 



296 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

this soil has been watered with the blood of Philis- 
tines, Midianites, Syrians, Israelites, and Egyptians 
— that here Sisera was vanquished, and the cry of 
mourning went up for good King Josiah ? As the 
mourning of Hadadrimmon in the valley of Megid- 
don, so shall be the repentance of Israel ; and may 
not this valley yet be the scene of cruel slaughter, 
when the world's armies shall be gathered to the 
battle of Armageddon ?" 

" I," said Agnes, " have been studying the site 
of Naboth's vineyard, which was probably on the 
bare slope to the north-east below this town. 
How I can fancy Jezebel looking out of her palace 
window, as Jehu drove furiously along that val- 
ley !" 

" And I," said Violet, " have been wondering if 
these howling dogs of Zera'in are the descendants 
of Jezebel's devourers? Also, if the Aibl6 we 
passed is the same as Ibleem, where King Ahaziah 
was smitten." 

Next morning we descended to the fountain of 
Ain Jalftd, from which Gideon's three hundred 
lapped water. Troops of Zera'in women were march- 
ing up the hill with earthen jars on their heads. 
We passed a few stone houses, amidst heaps of dirt, 
surrounded by blooming orchards, on the southern 
slope of Little Hermon. This was Shunem, where 



SEA OF GALILEE. 297 

Elisha found a home in the upper chamber, and 
where he raised to life the widow's son. We rode 
to Nain, where a mean mosque commemorates a 
similar deed of kindness on the part of Elisha's 
Master ; and also to Endor, whose caves we ex- 
plored, in memory of the witch. Both are now 
miserable villages on the northern slope of Little 
Hermon. 

An hour's wandering through corn and thistles 
brought us to Daberath, home of Deborah, at the 
foot of Mount Tabor. After a rather difficult ascent 
through thickets of dwarf oak, by a steep and 
stony path, we encamped on the top of the moun- 
tain. Here we obtained our first view of the Sea 
of Galilee. This was, I must confess, somewhat 
disappointing, and completely overturned our pre- 
vious conceptions of that hallowed lake. The basin 
in which it lies is depressed 600 feet below the 
level of the Mediterranean ; the chasm through 
which the Jordan flows sinking gradually deeper, 
until it reaches the Dead Sea, which is 700 feet 
lower still. 

All lakes are wont to lose half their charms 
when viewed from above. The hills of Galilee, 
unlike those of Judea, are clothed with oak forests, 
but this glossy covering ceases at a considerable 
distance from the line where they sink down to the 



298 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

lake, leaving a wide sweep of grassy table-land, 
whose monotony is unbroken by tree or vil- 
lage. 

" Do you think it was otherwise in the days of 
our Saviour ?" said Agnes. 

" I cannot doubt it," said Violet. " The remains 
on the shores of Gennesareth bear evidence of the 
existence of numerous towns, whose ruin may pos- 
sibly have been completed by the destruction of 
those forests which afforded them shelter from the 
heat. It would be interesting to trace how far 
natural causes may Jiave effected a change in 
the salubrity of the climate, since the time when 
that district was thickly peopled." 

" But was the climate better then ?" said Edith. 
" We might argue, from the gospel narrative, that 
fevers were as prevalent in Capernaum as they are 
in Tiberias." 

During the night our dwelling was nearly blown 
away by strong gusts of wind. We had some fear 
of experiencing an unwelcome bath in the Lake of 
Galilee. Flashes of lightning illuminated our tents, 
while immense grasshoppers and locusts hopped 
nimbly over the furniture. Our next night was 
spent at Nazareth, a well-built town, situated in a 
lovely valley. How delightful it was to ramble 
along the flowery hill-sides, which the boyish feet 



ARTIYBH. 299 

of our blessed Saviour so often trod, to gaze on the 
unrivalled prospect from the hill at whose base the 
city is built, and while identifying many a spot 
with a biblical name, endeavour to recall the scene 
when His fellow-citizens endeavoured to cast down 
their Creator from its summit. The water we drank 
was drawn from Nazareth's, one well; and no doubt 
its taste was familiar to the lips of Mary, and of 
Mary's Son and Redeemer. 

A large fire was lighted near the tents. Our 
dragoman and muleteers spent the night in singing 
and conversation, as the people of Nazareth are 
famed for their proficiency in pilfering. 

Next day we proceeded over many a low oak- 
clad hill to the deserted hamlet of Artiyeh ; and 
the day following we forded the Kishon, skirted 
the base of Carmel's majestic cliffs, and ascended 
one of its fruitful ridges. Stanley's description of 
the " Muhrakah," (The Burning) seems to point to 
an olive-shaded well which we passed half-way up 
the mountain. The spot to which our guides led 
us was situated on the very summit. There some 
ruins of unhewn stones, a tank cut into the rock, 
with a covered well at the bottom, and a miserable 
little church were pointed out as the scene of 
Elijah's sacrifice. The ridge slopes a few feet higher 
from this point ; but as the western sky was some- 



300 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

what clouded, we did not obtain a glimpse of the 
sea. 

Edith suggested that the priests of Baal might 
have built their altar where the ruin now stands, 
and that Elijah's might have been situated in the 
inside of the rocky tank, where the burning of the 
sacrifice on the top of a living fountain would ren- 
der the miracle all the more striking. 

We returned to our encampment at Artiyeh ; and 
after retiring to rest, we overheard an eloquent 
discussion between our muleteers and some coun- 
try people, in which the name of the Sultan Abdul 
Aziz was freely bandied about. 

" Were you quarrelling last night about the Sul- 
tan Abdul Aziz?" we asked of Armanous next 
morning. 

" Oh ! it was a man who was visiting us. Sa'ad 
told him the Sultan was his Sovereign. He said, 
4 No ; my Sovereign is such a one,' naming a farmer 
who has recently bought some land near Caifa. 
He was very obstinate on the point." 

Violet smiled. 

" A good specimen of the cohesion of the Turk- 
ish empire," said she. 

From Artiyeh we proceeded, on the following 
day, through a forest of oaks, growing amidst 
thickets of gorgeous flowers and tall thistles, which 



MEDJEL. 301 

sometimes reached above our heads, past the vil- 
lage of Beit Lahm, to Sefurich, the last stronghold 
held by the Crusaders. We spent Sunday at Kefr 
Kenna, the traditional Cana of Galilee, where gar- 
dens of prickly pear, and red blossoming pome- 
granates, seem fit adornments for the scene of that 
festive occasion when Jesus wrought the beginning 
of miracles. Many travellers think that Dr. Robin- 
son was mistaken in giving the name Kana-el-Jelil 
to a few caves to the jiorth-west of Kefr Kenna. 
Kana, they say, is a common name in the neigh- 
bourhood, and " el Jelil " was added by the Doctor 
through a mistake in speaking with the Arabs, or 
rather adopted by them to satisfy his inquiries. 
There are ancient remains about Kefr Kenna, none 
about the caves. The Greek priest shewed us his 
church, which professes to have two of the stone 
waterpots. They are fixtures, and look more like 
the stone boilers used by laundresses. 

Our visit to the Lake of Galilee was purposely 
hurried. We wished to avoid Tiberias, where an 
Arabian proverb says that " the king of the fleas 
holds his court;" and we also dreaded the pestilential 
atmosphere of the lake. We encamped at Medjel, 
or Magdala, the home of her who was honoured to 
be the first witness of the Resurrection. It is a 
miserable village, situated at the southern end of 



302 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

a narrow, marshy strip of land called the " plain 
of Gennesareth." A man had been despatched 
early to Tiberias to hire a fisher-boat for us, and 
with a ragged sail and a strong wind we embarked 
on the bright waters. The sailors were hardy and 
wretchedly clad. 

" How Wonderful," said Edith, " that by agents 
such as these the world has been changed !" 

We were carried rapidly past Ain-et-Tin and 
Khan Minyeh, past Et Tabiga, with its rushing 
mill-streams, and spent an hour wandering over 
the shapeless ruins of Tell Hum. This we believed 
to be Eefr na Hum, or Capernaum, for amongst 
the Arabs there is a great deal in a name. We 
brought away some chips of stone from its ruined 
synagogue. 

But how shall I recall the charm of our three 
hours' journey back to Magdala ? The wind was 
contrary ; we looked at the massive rampart-look- 
ing range of hills to the east, and wondered to find 
ourselves so near the giant cities of the table-land 
which stretches beyond them, yet without the 
power to visit those witnesses to the might of an- 
cient Bashan. We looked to the west, admiring 
the stately green-embosomed cliffs, and our fancy 
vainly strove to repeople the deserted shores with 
the multitudes who so often listened to the gracious 



BANIAS. 303 

words of Him who spoke as never man spake. 
We reached Magdala long after the stars had come 
out, and were enabled to appreciate Byron's de- 
scription of the march of the Assyrians. The eva- 
porations from the lake made the air like a vapour 
bath, and we were glad to rise early next morning 
and ascend to Safed. 

Two days' further journey through magnificeut 
scenery brought us. past the fountain of the Jordan 
at Tell-el-Kady, or Dan, to Banias, at the foot of 
Mount Hermon, the ancient Cesarea Philippi. 
Over the plain of the Huleh our only road was 
sometimes up a running stream, or over huge 
stones embedded in mud, where our horses dis- 
played wonderful sagacity in picking their foot- 
steps. Banias is the chosen home of scorpions 
and mosquitoes. The people spend the summer in 
booths on the roof of their houses, to escape the 
former plague. Violet was nearly consumed alive 
bv the latter. Here is one of the sources of the 
Jordan. The water issues from below a large 
cavern in the face of a rock. This cavern was 
once a temple of Pan, who gave his name to the 
towi*. The castle of Banias is perched on the top 
of a seemingly inaccessible rocky hill, and is sur- 
rounded by the steep shoulders of Hermon, whose 
snowy peak is hidden by them. 



304 EA8TERN PELGRIM8. 

Violet suggested that our Saviour may have 
pointed to this rock fortress, so secure in its 
foundations, as an illustration, when he said: 
" Thou art Peter, and on this rock will I build my 
church." 

" If the influences of our Saviour's church may 
be compared to the Jordan," said Edith, "then 
Peter had, like this rock, to share with others the 
honour of being one of its sources. But do you 
think Hermon or Tabor has the better right to be 
considered the Mount of Transfiguration ?" 

" Hermon is decidedly the more likely spot," an- 
swered Violet. " If it was an object with our Sa- 
viour to be invisible to all but the three Apostles, 
He never would have chosen Tabor. The fortress 
whose ruins crown it was entire in the days of 
Josephus. Besides, Hermon is so much grander, and 
its wooded hills afford a much better opportunity 
for concealment. The Transfiguration took place 
six days after our Saviour's arrival at Cesarea 
Philippi from Galilee. Is it likely that He would 
retrace His footsteps to find a more fitting spot on 
the comparatively insignificant Tabor ?" 

"Tabor suits the Catholic pilgrims very well," 
said Edith. " It is an easy journey from the Con- 
vent of Nazareth. They are likely to maintain the 
tradition." 



DAMASCUS. 305 

We spent Sunday on a grassy meadow near the 
Druse village of Medjel es Shems, where more 
than a thousand people sat around our tents to 
watch our movements. Strangers do not often 
pass that way, so some venerable old men were 
very anxious for us to test the proficiency of a little 
girl who had learnt French in a school at Beyrout. 
The poor child was rendered timid by the solemn- 
ity of her examination, and could only answer, 
" 0m," and " Non" These Druse villagers had 
an air of sturdy independence which contrasted 
strongly with that of the natives of Palestine. How 
easily might they and the Anazeh put an end to 
the authority of their Turkish oppressors, were 
they not so much at enmity with each other ! 

Monday night was spent at Kefr Hauwar, and 
on Tuesday we passed Artuz, the traditional site of 
St. Paul's conversion. 

" I think," said Edith, " this place agrees well 
with the Scripture narrative. Does not this in- 
tense heat make you appreciate what that light 
must have been which was ' above the brightness 
of the sun ?' " 

Damascus is situated amid a stretch of dark 
forests, in a wide desolate valley, bordered on 
either side by barrep. hills. It lies completely ex- 
posed to the attack of invaders. Its white minarets 

x 



306 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

gleamed amid luxuriant foliage, and Violet ex- 
claimed, as we wound our way amidst its fragrant 
orchards — 

" Don't you think the Garden of Eden must have 
been here ?" 

More tharr once we waded across some branch of 
the Barada trickling down a street. 

" Naaman was right," said Edith. " Abana and 
Pharphar are much better than all the waters of 
Israel." 

Damascus is a truly delightful residence before 
the summer heat fairly sets in. Each house has 
an orchard in its inner court ; almost every apart* 
ment has its fountain. We found comfortable ac- 
commodation in Dimitri's Hotel, and arrived on the 
very day of the return of the Mecca pilgrims, too 
late to witness their entrance into the city. Violet 
was too much fatigued to do anything on the fol- 
lowing day, but Edith and Agnes were guided by 
Armanous to see a performance of dervishes in 
honour of the pilgrims. 

Beneath a glossy canopy of orange-boughs, in 
the inner court of a sumptuous residence, a motley 
crowd were watching for the arrival of the chiefs 
of the pilgrimage. They seemed somewhat aston- 
ished at the appearance among them of two Frank 
ladies. The chief dervish sent immediately to ask 



DANCE OF DERVISHES. 307 

« 

if these ladies would take a seat on a divan in a 
little building adjoining the kiosk. 

We found the Colonel commanding the troops 
seated within. He seemed very much amazed 
at our independence, and questioned Armanous 
rather curiously as to our journeyings. A young 
dervish, apparently about fourteen years old, took 
a great fancy to talk with the two strangers. He 
told Armanous that he could spin on one foot for 
an hour to obtain a look of approbation from his 
chief. When the performance was about to begin, 
the chief dtfrvish asked if we should like to go into 
the latticed gallery beside his hareem. 

We mounted a long stair, and found our- 
selves in a small apartment, where we were wel- 
comed by four richly-dressed ladies squatted on 
the ground. One of these was the principal wife 
of the Colonel ; the others bore a similar rela- 
tion to the chief dervish. Two of them seemed to 
consider the evolutions going on beneath as a reli- 
gious service ; the other two were more bent on 
examining their visitors' dress, and very amusing 
were our attempts at spouting the little Arabic we 
knew. 

All the ladies soon retired into the rooms allot- 
ted to their use in the dervish's house, where 
more than twenty . inferior wives and attendants 

x2 



308 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

were soon gathered. The principal ladies smoked 
narghilehs, while most of the others sat round in 
what we thought very ungraceful attitudes. They 
were all plain-looking, excepting one, whose other- 
wise ordinary features were relieved by a pair of 
very lustrous eyes. 

The expression of their faces was peculiarly in- 
animate. 

" I cannot see," said Edith, " why the Turkish 
ladies at Constantinople did not admire our Princess. 
They thought her too slender and too fair ; but if 
the Turks think these ladies beautiful, I'm sure she 
may consider herself complimented by their want 
of appreciation." 

The Colonel's wife at length rose, and 
was enveloped by her servants in a rich green 
silk veil. Her attendants put on white cot- 
ton ones. So we took our leave at the same 
time. 

It was funny to see the waiters at Dimitri's, wear- 
ing pretty fresh print skirts. 

" I like to see our maid-servants in England with 
clean dresses in summer," said Violet, "but it 
seems an overturning of all our notions to see the 
custom adopted by men." 

We visited some very handsome Jewish houses, 
whose owners allow them to be exhibited every 



GREAT MOSQUE. 309 

Saturday. Each house has a large open court iu 
the centre, off which enter the apartments occupied 
by the several branches of the family. There was 
a great gathering of ladies in each dwelling we 
visited. They were all elegantly attired in white 
muslins ; those of the unmarried being worn high 
up to the throat, while those of the married were 
open in front, and adorned with rich lace. Arman- 
ous taxed them with a want of hospitality in offer- 
ing us nothing to eat. They excused themselves 
by saying it was Saturday. 

The Great Mosque resembles one of the churches 
in Rome, and has none of those peculiarities 
which make other mosques so interesting. A 
napoleon is charged to every person who visits it. 
The rich mosaiqs of Christian times are gradually 
being replaced by tasteless white marble. As there 
is a tendency amongst Eastern nations to keep 
sacred any ground once devoted to religious pur- 
poses, this mosque is supposed to occupy the site 
of the " House of Rimmon," where Naaman ob- 
tained permission to bow himself when attending 
on the king. 

Moslem strangers seem to employ the mosques as 
sleeping places. Behind one of the doors of that 
of Damascus is an inscription in Greek : " Thy 
kingdom, Christ, is an everlasting kingdom. 



310 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

and Thy dominion endureth throughout,, all genera- 
tions/' 

The bazaars are well stocked with Manchester 
prints, which seem much sought after by oriental 
fashionables of both sexes. We were in pursuit of 
some Turkish gauze dresses. Armanous led us to 
a shop where one was to be procured. Whilst 
we were inspecting the quality of the article, two 
chairs were brought for Violet and Agnes to Beat 
themselves in the open street. 

The shop was one of those Eastern cupboards 
already described. The proprietor and his assistant 
had each separate quilted cushions. The proprietor, 
an immense corpulent Moslem in a high rich tur- 
ban, perceiving that Edith had no seat, gallantly 
offered her a share of his cushion. Being somewhat 
fatigued, she willingly accepted his offer, and 
mounted beside him. Soon the narrow street was 
crowded to witness the unusual spectacle, and 
Edith found herself the object of much attention. 

The dress was not purchased, much to the dis- 
appointment of the gallant shopkeeper. 



311 



CHAPTER XIX. 

DAMASCUS TO THE CEDAES AND TO GREECE. 

WE left Damascus on the first of June, and 
rode over the white hills to the sparkling 
fountain of Ain Fijeh. We wound up a glen by a 
narrow ledge, with mountains of naked rock tower- 
ing above us, passing three or four large villages 
surrounded by blooming orchards, and pitched our 
tents at Suk Wady Barada, the site of the old Ro- 
man city of Abila, capital of Herod's tetrarchate, 
and traditionally the grave of Abel. 

Next day we rode up the sublime ravine of the 
Barada. It is impossible to describe this gorge ; 
its sides are sheer mountains of naked rock, 1,000 
feet high, perforated with ancient Roman tombs. 
We rode through the plain of Zebdany, which is 
surrounded by some of the highest peaks of Anti- 
Lebanon. The village of Zebdany is situated in a 
perfect paradise of flowers and fruit-trees. Bludan, 



312 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

the summer resort of Europeans resident in Damas- 
cus, is situated on a hill above it. We slept at 
Surghaya, and next day had a weary ride to the 
temples of Ba'albek. 

Baalbek is situated in the great plain of the 
Buka'a, which runs between the mighty ranges of 
Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon. We entered the 
temple through a long dark vaulted corridor, and 
encamped in the great court. There Agnes ima- 
gined she had a sunstroke, and was well dosed with 
ammonia. 

The Temple of Ba'albek is not quite so grand, 
but more beautiful than that of Karnak on the 
Nile. It is supposed to have been built by Solo- 
mon. Those of Paestura, in Italy, are dwarfs in 
comparison. The Arabs have availed themselves 
largely of the materials in erecting other buildings. 
One modern inscription struck us as singularly ap- 
propriate: — "The idols He shall utterly abolish." 
Edith thought of adding — " The idols are broke in 
the temple of Baal." 

A grander temple soars around. The ridges 
of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon cannot be de- 
stroyed by human hands, but have stood for ages, 
silently proclaiming the praises of their Cre- 
ator. 

Next morning we crossed the plain of Buka a, 



j 



LEBANON. 313 

and in two hours reached the foot of Lebanon, at 
the village of Deir-el-Ahmar. After more than 
two hours' climbing, we reached the top of a high 
hill, partially planted with dwarf oaks. The trees 
gradually became more stunted, until at last they 
ceased altogether, and we rode over a stony tract 
to the base of the high snow-covered range, and 
encamped beside a waterfall near the little Maronite 
village of Ain Ata. The women of the place, a 
noble-looking, handsome race, crowded round to 
have a peep at us. They responded to Yakoub's 
efforts at driving them away by loud cries of 
" Zayy ! zayy !" which meant, as he translated it, 
" Alike ! alike! She's a lady, and I'm a lady P The 
Maronite men are very hard-working, but scarcely 
impressed us so favourably as the Druses. 

Our path next day was a somewhat dangerous 
one. Armanous engaged some villagers to lead 
our horses, and up the steep side of Lebanon we 
toiled by a zig- zag path which was sometimes dif- 
ficult to trace. At length we reached the summit, 
and a wonderful event in Yakoub's life occurred — 
he made a snowball ! The view from this point 
was sublime. Far beneath us, on the south, 
stretched the wide green Buka'a, like a sea of 
verdure, with the snowy ranges of Anti-Lebanon 
beyond it ; while on the other side our eye wan- 



314 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

dered over a panorama of wild hills and glens 
away to the blue Mediterranean. The ridge we 
crossed must have been about 7,000 feet above the 
sea level. A thousand feet below us, at the base 
of another bare mountain, lay a small black patch. 
This patch, as we approached it, seemed to enlarge 
into a grove, and we felt that we were near the 
limit of our travels, near the far-famed Cedars. 
Soon we dismounted beneath their leafy canopy. 
The cedars are about four hundred in number, and 
are of various ages. This grove is gradually be- 
coming smaller, through the spoliations of Arabs 
and travellers. The trees resemble pines, but 
their branches spread horizontally. A delicious 
aroma filled the air around. We gathered a few 
cones, and then retraced our steps for four hours 
back to Ain Ata. The cold wind on the top of 
the ridge was very powerful. Arm an cms and Ya- 
koub could conceive of no grander mountain than 
that we were scaling, and would scarcely believe 
the stories we told them of Mont Blanc and the 
Jungfrau. 

" Did you ever see so much snow ? w exclaimed 
Armanous, in a transport of delight. 

Edith told him of the Swiss glaciers. 

" But how do you travel in Switzerland ?" he 
asked. " Will you not require my tents there ?" 



0UB LAST ENCAMPMENT. 315 

"No," answered Violet; "there are railroads and 
hotels in that country." 

" But it's quite impossible you can find a hotel 
ready for you at every town." 

" What sort of place is Beyrout ?" asked Edith. 

"Oh! Beyrout is a very grand town, for the 
houses have mostly got windows." 

We spent a Sunday at Ain Ata, and started be- 
fore five o'clock on Monday morning. We rode 
over a stony glen, until we reached a lovely little 
lake, to avoid which we had to ride up a steep 
mountain-side. Soon the path became invisible 
amongst the loose stones, and all except Violet dis- 
mounted, and picked their way with difficulty on 
foot. How Violet and her horse came down is 
still an unsolved mystery. Several stone walls had 
that day to be partially demolished before we could 
pass. We rode down a long glen to the village of 
Neby Shit. 

The following day we reached the village of 
Muallakah, near which we met some nuns riding 
astride. Our last encampment was along the Bey- 
rout and Damascus diligence road, where our 
horses often shied at the unaccustomed sound of 
cartwheels. How strange it was to see a hay har- 
vest carried home on the backs of camels and 
mules ! Very sorry indeed were we to leave our 



316 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

tents, and the romantic life with which they were 
associated. We remained a fortnight at Beyrout, 
took passages on board a vessel bound for Smyrna, 
and took leave of Armanous, whose last words, as 
the little boat bore him away, were : " I would go 
over the world with you ladies. I am your slave 
for life P 

We left Beyrout by the Austrian Lloyds' 
steamer Urano. On board was the Pasha of 
Damascus, Governor of Syria, the second person- 
age in the Turkish empire, by virtue of his being 
" Prince of the Pilgrimage," and bound to send a 
proxy every year to Mecca. To his wise rule 
much of the safety of our journey may be attri- 
buted. At Smyrna we were transferred into the 
Aquila Imperiale, and had the pleasure of a visit 
from our old friend, Captain Rollo, of the Aurora. 
In passing between Andros and Tenos, we were 
pleasantly surprised to see the first decent village 
we had beheld for eight months. 

" See the effects of Christianity P exclaimed Edith, 
11 perverted though it be. Does not the very sight 
of this prove that there is something radically false 
in el-Islam ? How can men have any motive for 
improving their condition in this life, if they have 
no expectation of a higher life beyond the grave ? w 

Syra impressed this fact on our minds still more 



SYRA. 317 

strongly. It is a town which owes its existence en- 
tirely to commerce, the island itself furnishing no- 
thing for the wants of its inhabitants ; and it has 
arisen since the Greek war of independence. Can 
we wonder that Christian communities submit with 
impatience to the desolating rule of the Moslem ? 

The white houses, with their flat roofs, give Syra 
the appearance of a card-house piled up against the 
steep rock. It was illuminated at night with petro- 
leum lamps, in honour of the birth of a Prince at 
Corfu. We were transferred into a miserable little 
steamer, the Persia, whose speedy removal would 
greatly enhance the credit of the otherwise well- 
managed Austrian line of packets. Two young 
ladies from Berlin were seated on board awaiting 
the arrival of the Trieste steamer. 

u Are you travelling without a gentleman ?" they 
asked. 

" Yes, and have got on very well till now," 

" So are we," said they, and both parties laughed 
heartily. 

They had come by Constantinople, and preferred 
travelling alone, as one of them was delicate, and 
did not like to be hurried. We found them intelli- 
gent and highly educated, and received from them 
some useful advice about Athens. 

We sat long on deck, as we had been warned of 



318 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

the populous condition of the ladies' cabin. An 
American gentleman entertained the company by- 
magnificent accounts of gigantic waterfalls with un- 
pronounceable names. 

u I have seen something more wonderful than 
that," said Edith. " In Scotland some waterfalls 
have been perceived to go up as well as down" 

"How? — where was that?" exclaimed the as- 
tonished American. 

" On the coast of Morven. We were making an 
attempt to reach Staffa on a very stormy day. On 
our left was Mull ; on our right stretched a range 
of frowning cliffs, over which several mountain 
streams tumbled their foaming waters. The wind 
blew in fitful gusts, which every now and then 
lifted the white cascades completely from the face 
of the rock, and sent them spinning up like jets of 
steam, only to fall the next minute by their own 
weight. Up and down they went by turns. Have 
you anything in America to equal that?" 

" No. You have beat the sharpest thing in the 
world, a Philadelphia lawyer." 

Early next morning we were in the Piraeus, and 
had a famous carriage-race with two other parties 
to Athens. Here were actually roads and carts, 
and stone houses with windows ! We almost felt 
at home again. 



ATHENS. 319 

" I should have fought, had I been a Greek," 
said Violet. " A sudden spark of sympathy kindles 
at the sight of so much life and progress, though 
till now I shared the popular prejudices against the 
Greeks." 

The Acropolis, crowned by the ruined Parthe- 
non, is a most picturesque object, even apart from 
its classical associations. The modern town is situ- 
ated between the Acropolis and Lycabettus, and is 
the freshest-looking, cleanest, best drained, best 
lighted little place in the world. Not a single 
gloomy street did we see, save one, a relic of Turk- 
ish times. It had the orthodox gutter down the 
middle, but the rugged pavement was being dili- 
gently taken up and replaced by a macadamized 
road. The majestic Acropolis and the rugged 
Lycabettus suggested comparisons between the 
Castle Hill of Edinburgh and Arthur's Seat ; but 
while awarding the palm for natural beauty to the 
more northern capital, we acknowledged that no- 
thing in the world could come up to the ruined 
Parthenon. 

We engaged as vaUt-de-plaee a " noble Greek," 
who was attached to the staff of the H6tel d'Angle- 
terre, and had been recommended to us by the 
German ladies. 

The Hotel d'Angleterre is situated in the great 



320 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

square, one end of which is filled up by the Royal 
Palace, whilst the Hotel de la Grande Bretagne and 
other kindred establishments fill up its remaining 
sides. The apartments in both hotels have an air 
of comfort and cleanliness, but unfortunately, like 
other houses in Athens, no amount of attention can 
keep them perfectly free from man's small enemies 
— at least, in hot weather. The* cuisine of our 
hotel was excellent. The honey of Hymettus, and 
the delicate creamy butter which adorned the 
breakfast-table, had peculiar charms for those who 
had not tasted the latter luxury for eight months. 

The magnificent remains of the Temple of Jupi- 
ter Olympus are very differently honoured in 
Athens from what they would be in Egypt. Be- 
neath the shadow of these fifteen graceful Corinthi- 
an columns little tables were planted, and groups 
of happy people sipped their ices or coffee in the 
balmy air of evening. One column lies prostrate, 
having been lately thrown down by the wind. It 
looks very singular in its disjointed condition. 

Passing the rock of Areopagus, and that from 
which Demosthenes addressed the people, we 
ascended to the Acropolis. We passed the Pro- 
pylsea, and ascending a long flight of steps, walked 
round the beautiful little white temple called the 
Cimonium, then reached the Parthenon. Some of 



PRISON OF SOCRATES. 321 

the Doric columns still stand, but the friezes have 
been mostly removed to England, or destroyed by 
Turkish shot. The gateway is broader above than 
below, in order that the statue of Athena, of ivory 
and gold, which once stood in the centre of the 
temple, might be seen glittering in the sunbeams 
by the inhabitants of distant Salamis. Violet seat- 
ed herself in what was said to have been Athena's 
chair. From a corner we had a splendid view. 
One is very forcibly struck with the diminutive size 
of the principal features in the landscape, and the 
short distance between the site of celebrated 
towns. Greece is emphatically a country in 
miniature. Like the hills of Palestine, its moun- 
tains are destitute of trees; but unlike those of 
Egypt, they are clothed with verdure to their sum- 
mits. The purple tints of iEgaleus and Hymettus 
lend variety and warmth to the scenery. 

" How is this purple tint produced ?" asked 
Edith. 

" By the abundance of wild thyme," was the an- 
swer we afterwards discovered to her question. 

The prison of Socrates is an excavation in a rock 
near the Areopagus. The small round chamber 
where the great philosopher was confined is lighted 
by a hole in the roof. 

While we found interest and instruction amid the 



322 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

broken relics of a bygone age, we took supreme de- 
light in rambling through the gardens of the pal- 
ace. The palace is a plain white building, on one 
side something like a barrack, on the other three 
adorned with Doric columns. The public are freely 
admitted to its grounds after a certain hour in the 
evening. The Greeks have dearly bought their 
public buildings, so they take the right of enjoy- 
ing them. We were told that the present Queen 
did not at first relish this want of privacy, to which 
she was unaccustomed in the imperial residences 
of St. Petersburg. 

We passed along walks where rich green boughs 
met overhead, and then stopped at a secluded 
fountain filled with darting gold fish. Round the 
fountain was a circular canopy of trellised greenery, 
while a still higher canopy of trees protected our 
weary eyes from the sun. Nowhere else can such 
delicious foliage flourish under such a shining sky, 
and in such pure, calm air. No wonder the Greeks 
were poets, no wonder their philosophers loved to 
walk musingly under such shady groves ! 

From an elevated marble platform we had a 
glorious view of the Parthenon on its majestic 
throne of rock. Hymettus glowed purple in the 
light of sunset. Lycabettus seemed stooping for- 
ward as if it wanted to speak to the Acropolis. 



ELEUSIS. 323 

After wandering through avenues of large blos- 
soming rosy oleanders, besides many flowering 
shrubs whose names we did not know, we came to 
the front of the palace, and beheld the loveliest 
prospect that royal eye ever gazed on. Small it 
certainly is, but Greece is a small kingdom, and who 
would wish to enlarge that exquisite little lawn, 
with its beds of rich geraniums, its pillar-like dwarf 
palm-trees, and its short vista of intense green- 
ness? 

We returned to the hotel, sat on the balcony, 
and, tea-cup in hand, listened to a band of music, 
and watched the crowd flitting about in the moon- 
light on the piazza below. We admired their 
orderly behaviour, so different from the noisy rattle 
of Parisian holiday makers. Scarcely a murmur 
rose from the cheerful-looking promenaders. At 
ten o'clock they dispersed, the lamps were extin- 
guished, and silence gathered over the little 
city. 

Two days afterwards we visited Eleusis. We 
drove through the olive groves of the Academy, 
over the dry bed of the Cephissus, and then into 
the Pass of Daphne, which cuts through the moun- 
tain iEgaleus. Soon the bay of Salamis burst on 
our view, intensely blue, with the island of that 
name shutting it out from the sea, and the hill-top 

y2 



324 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

called the Throne of Xerxes overlooking it. We 
stopped at the town of Eleusis, and after peering 
about among the broken pillars of a temple, 
enjoyed a glass of lemonade in front of a 
cafe, and amused ourselves watching the pictur- 
esquely dressed people. On our way back we 
visited the monastery of Daphne and the tomb of 
Strabo. 

Next morning we rose at three, and at half-past 
four started in a carriage for Pentelicus. Hymettus 
towered to the left of the road, its thymy turf 
scenting the morning air with balmy fragrance. We 
drove past the village of Cephissia, as far as a mon- 
astery, where was a rustic cafe beneath the shade 
of lofty trees ; then mounted wretched horses, and 
began to ascend by a path strewn with fragments 
of white marble. We passed the celebrated quar- 
ries, and reached the top, where a magnificent 
landscape lay extended around us. To the south 
and west were the plain of Athens, studded with 
pretty white villages, the Piraeus and Salamis. To 
the north, the island of Euboea, and the mountains 
of Chalcis and Vathy, separated from us by the deep 
blue sea. 

From Pentelicus smaller peaks run down and 
surround the plain of Marathon ; and from our 
standpoint we had an excellent view of the battle- 



MARATHON. 325 

field which gave Attica so conspicuous a place 
amongst the nations. Marathon lies close to the 
sea-shore, and is the only level spot of this moun- 
tainous district. Our horses were quite unequal to 
the task of carrying us down, and after various in- 
effectual attempts to lead them, we left them to the 
care of our " noble Greek," descended on foot, 
visiting the grotto of Pan by the way, and enjoyed 
a well-earned breakfast at the monastery. The 
"noble Greek," over whose accounts we kept a 
strict watch, was greatly annoyed that we did not 
ride. 

"I thought you could do it better," said he, 
" after so much experience in Syria." 

"But our Syrian horses were very different 
animals," said Agnes ; " Edith has already slipped 
off to avoid a projecting bough, and I thought 
Violet and her horse would both have been dashed 
in pieces whilst attempting, on its weak legs, to de- 
scend over a great rock. Mine has its shoulders 
crushed ; it is broken-winded, and I'm very sure it 
has not had its breakfast. My Syrian horse could 
pick its steps like a cat, and was always well fed." 

We spent next day exploring the antiquities. 
The Tower of the Winds, the Gate of the Agora, 
and a small temple of Neptune are in tolerable 
preservation. The Doric Temple of Theseus is the 



326 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

best preserved building of ancient Athens. In the 
interior is a fine museum of mutilated statuary. 
How we realized the boldness and appropriateness 
of St. Paul's sermon on the Areopagus ! Could more 
noble or more manly words have been spoken in 
front of that majestic Parthenon, with the most 
wonderful productions of human art standing 
around ? With what difficulty has the world learnt 
the lesson he there proclaimed ! And indeed the 
world has not learnt it yet. Vainly do we appeal 
to Israelitish times to prove that Art, though beau- 
tiful as an adjunct, has no real place in worship. As 
if in anticipation of the extent to which its employ- 
ment would endanger our spirituality, one of the 
earliest commandments was given : 

" And if thou make an altar of stone, thou shalt 
not make it of hewn stone ; for if thou lift up thy 
tool upon it, thou hast polluted it. Neither shalt 
thou go up by steps unto mine altar." 

How would this sound if read in St. Peter's at 
the present day ? 

We left the Piraeus in the little steamer Persia, 
and had to wait a day on board it at Syra. Here 
we met an attache of the Greek embassy at Vienna, 
who was visiting, for the first time, the land of his 
fathers. He was perfectly amazed that we had 
been to the top of Pentelicus, and said that our 



COURIERS. 327 

guide must have had an understanding with the 
brigands to have taken us there in safety. He spent 
some hours on shore, and returned with a few boxes 
of sweetmeats. 

" Let me advise you to purchase some of this pre- 
paration. I paid a napoleon for each of mine ; but 
they are a very rare luxury." 

" Oh ! " said a lady, " I can get them in Syra 
for half-a-franc the box." 

" What a shame ! The fellow has swindled me, 
his countryman ! Strangers are fair game, but I 
thought 1 was safe. Do you ladies travel without 
either courier or maid ?" 

" Yes," answered Violet. " We never take a com- 
missionaire when we can help it ; because we find 
that those who do the work for us fare badly at 
his hands. Hotel servants dislike couriers so much, 
that they are always doubly attentive to the com- 
fort of those who travel without them. As we can 
speak Italian, we shall only engage a gondolier by 
the week at Venice." 

"And in the East," said Edith, " the most cum- 
bersome of all appendages is a European servant, 
whether male or female. Dragomans charge the 
same price for them as they do for their masters ; 
and they are quite right, for the expense of carry- 
ing their comforts is just the same. A maid who is 



328 EASTERN PILGRIMS. 

unaccustomed to riding, and probably cares little 
for the countries she traverses, has often to be 
nursed by her mistress in the end. We have quite 
enough to do in taking care of ourselves, without 
having to take care of them." 

We arrived at Corfu, but did not land on ac- 
count of the excessive heat. 

" The plague is there !" said the Captain. 

" The plague 1 What do you mean ?" 

" A dearth of coins. Formerly it used to rain 
sovereigns, now it only rains lepta." 

We spent some time at Venice and on Lake 
Como, crossed the Spliigen, enjoyed a few weeks 
, bathing at Ragatz, and returned to London vid 
Basle and Paris. 



THE END 



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